In between visiting historic sites, Hermann and I did a little hiking while visiting Ireland. But this is a different hiking experience for us since it was a combination of exploring nature and visiting historic ruins at the same time. Sounds interesting doesn’t it? That’s why we added it to our two-week itinerary for exploring Ireland. It was worth a hike (or walk) to the waterfalls, two lakes and a visit to the monastic city all in one day. Glendalough, in Irish, Gleann Dá Loch, meaning "The Glen of the Two Lakes", is a valley carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age. The valley is located in the Wicklow Mountains National Park, the largest of six national parks in Ireland. Two lakes can be found here, the Lower and the Upper Lake. Above the upper lake is where a bronze age tomb (now known as ‘St. Kevin’s Bed') can be found, although it is not accessible to the public. Kevin, who later became an Irish saint, spent seven years living in this cave as a hermit after being ordained. There are signs to all the historic sites and hiking trails you want to follow so you have an option to decide where you want to go. Visiting the area is free except for parking at the Upper Lake and the exhibition at the Visitor Center. The exhibition is worth checking before heading out to the monastic site. In fact, I highly recommend it. It is a good introduction to what you will see later on as you explore the sites. MONASTIC SETTLEMENT/CITY The monastic settlement is located near the visitor center. You will see the round tower so you won’t miss it. It stands about 108 feet high. This tower called “Cloigtheach”, meaning bell tower, was built by the monks living in the monastery almost 1000 years ago. The monastic city is an early medieval 6th century settlement, founded by St. Kevin, first abbot of Glendalough. St. Kevin was born to a noble family in Leinster. As a child, it was said that he had a horrible temper and disliked other people, but he loved animals. He was sent to the monastery as a young boy to live among the monks. He studied for the priesthood and later attracted followers by his teachings and acts of miracles. He lived to be 120 years old. The remains of what was once an active monastery can be found hidden among the lush forest in Glendalough. This monastic site became one of the great centers of learning during the early Christian era in Ireland. That is until the destruction by the English forces in 1398 left it in ruins. The ruins are only a fraction of what the settlement had in its heyday. There were workshops, guesthouses, farm buildings, to name a few (a mini rendition or model of the whole settlement can be seen at the visitors's center). It was a city in a sense that they had everything a community of monks, lay people, and guests or pilgrims' needed. Today, the settlement continues as a church and a place for pilgrimage. So, why is St. Kevin's Church better known as St. Kevin's Kitchen? That puzzled me at first but I found out that people believed that the bell tower of the church was a chimney for a kitchen. Besides the Round Tower and St. Kevin’s Church/Kitchen, look for St. Kevin’s Cross, a Celtic cross, also called “sun cross”. This type of cross, found in many historic sites around Ireland, is a fine example of how early Christians incorporated pagan beliefs (worship of the sun and moon) on to the cross. Local legend says that the Celtic cross was first introduced by Saint Patrick. A local legend also says that wrapping your arms around the width of St. Kevin’s cross with your fingertips touching, will cause your wish to be granted. I didn’t know it at that time, darn!. But then again I don't think it will work for short people like me. UPPER LAKE After exploring the monastic site we followed the trail to the Upper Lake, skipping the Lower Lake for later. The Upper Lake was once connected to the Lower Lake, but accumulated sediments divided the lake into two. The Upper Lake has a spectacular view of the mountains. We could have stayed a little while so we could enjoy the beauty and serenity of the place but the wind was relentless. We just took a few pictures and turned around to see the other sights nearby. THE CAHER Near the Upper Lake is a stone fort of unknown date. It was suggested that it might have been a stone enclosure for cattle. Some scholars describe it as a fort used by the early people of the valley. It was also suggested that it may have served as a meeting place or even shelter for pilgrims. Small crosses can be seen nearby. REEFERT CHURCH The Reefert Church is located near the Upper Lake car park, close to the Information Office. The name Reefert derives from the Irish ‘Righ Fearta’ meaning, ‘Royal Burial Place’. It is a burial site of the chiefs of the O’Toole family. It dates from the 11th century, built in Romanesque style, but it might have been built on the site of an earlier church. The surrounding graveyard contains a number of stone crosses and slabs, too old that you can’t recognize what was written on them and who was buried there and when. POOLANASS WATERFALL There are nine trails with different difficulties around Glendalough. You have options for a network of forest paths depending on your allotted time and condition. We only had one day, not enough time to explore all the trails so we had to choose. We chose the easy one, the pink route to Poolanass waterfalls. In Irish ‘Poll an Eas’ means ‘hole of the waterfall’. The trails are mostly even pathways around the two lakes, but the one that leads to the waterfall has steep steps, though not difficult. Above the waterfall’s viewing point the trail continues, leading to the Spinc ridge overlooks. A spectacular view I’m sure, but unfortunately the weather was not so nice that day so we skipped it. Going back down we followed the trail to St. Kevin’s cell. Take note, you might miss the remains of the cabin if you are not looking closely, as we did. While we were looking at the lake below, we didn’t notice that the stone we were standing on is the remains of St. Kevin’s cabin. The only sign indicating the site was on a piece of wood attached to the barrier fence. Note: If you have time, you can visit the Miners' Village, also in Glendalough, following on foot the Miners' Road (purple route) from the upper parking lot.

Bohol is only one of 2,000 inhabited islands in the Philippine Archipelago. Bohol is the tenth largest island of the Philippines, located in the Central Visayas Region. To the west of Bohol is Cebu island, to the northeast is the island of Leyte and to the south is Mindanao. It can easily be reached by air from Manila or by fast ferry from Cebu. The capital of Bohol is Tagbilaran City, known as the "City of Peace and Friendship", also the gateway to the island of Bohol. We traveled in Bohol in 2010, and we hired a tour guide for one day. We didn't know anyone local so it was our best bet, that way we didn't have to worry about transportation. We arranged it through the resort hotel we stayed in. Maybe some things have changed in tourism and experiences since then, especially after the 2013 earthquake, but the Chocolate Hills will always be there and I hope the Tarsiers as well. UNDERSTANDING THE CULTURE The Spanish Colonial period influenced the culture of Bohol, especially its dances, music and food. Bohol was first settled by Australoid people known as the Eskaya tribe, whose descendants still inhabit the island today. The people of Bohol are said to be the descendants of a group of “pintados" (tattooed inhabitants). In 1565, a Spanish explorer named Miguel Lopez de Legaspi arrived in Bohol looking for spices and gold. He made a peace pact known as the "Blood Compact" ("Sandugo" in Filipino), with Datu Sikatuna (chieftain or lord of the island). This happened after Legaspi convinced the chief that they are not the Portuguese explorers (i.e. Magellan) who raided Mactan Island in 1521. The first international treaty of peace and unity between the Datu and the Spanish conquistadors, was enacted on March 16, 1565. Various wars and rebellions occurred on Bohol, from the Spanish era up to Japanese Occupation during World War 2. The Tamblot Uprising in 1621, led by a native priest, and the Dagohoy Rebellion, led by Francisco "Dagohoy" Sendrijas, occurred between 1744 and 1829 during the Spanish era – the longest rebellion in Philippine history. The United States defeated Spain in the Spanish-American War and bought the entire Philippine Islands. The Spanish-American war was followed by the Philippine-American War, also known as the Philippine War of Independence, from 1899 to 1902. In 1942, the Japanese forces landed in Tagbilaran, but the island was liberated in 1945 as a result of local guerrilla resistance and the actions of Filipino and American troops. Today a plaque exhibited at the port of Tagbilaran commemorates the liberation. - SITES TO VISIT - The Island of Bohol is home to various endangered flora and fauna. The land has much fertile ground and an abundant water supply. A visit to Bohol without seeing the Chocolate Hills is unthinkable. This is one of the truly unique sights not only in the Philippines, but in the entire world. The Chocolate Hills are formed of hundreds of limestone mounds shaped like chocolate kisses, and are famous attractions in Bohol, as are the Philippine Tarsiers, the second smallest primates in the world. Although there are many attractions, in the area, these are the two most interesting and unusual things you can visit while in Bohol. The island also has caves for spelunking. Panglao Island, connected to Bohol by two bridges, has a number of resorts famous for diving. The white sandy beaches are also a tourist destination. CHOCOLATE HILLS The Chocolate Hills are a geological formation consisting of 1260 (some estimates claim as many as 1780) grass-covered limestone hills. These unique hills are spread out all over the central part of the island near the town of Carmen. They are conical hills spread over about 20 square miles. Their conical shape, almost completely symmetrical, combined with their brown color during the dry season, gives them the appearance of chocolate kisses - hence their name. At the main viewing point, you will see hundreds of them, all the way to the horizon. The areas between the hills is mainly flat and much of it is cultivated with rice and other crops. Several legends are told as to how the hills were formed: Two feuding giants threw stones at each other day after day until they were exhausted; they then became friends but left a mess after the fight. Another legend is of a powerful giant who fell in love with a mortal woman, and when she died he couldn't stop crying - his tears then dried up, thus forming the hills. There are also a lot of geological theories as to how the hills were formed. Probably the most widely accepted one is that the hills were the result of thousands of years of weathering of marine limestone. While the Chocolate Hills are the main attraction on the island, there are other things to see on such a tour, which many of the resorts are able to organize. Some are just short stops such as the Baclayon Church or the Blood Compact Monument. But a major attraction that all tours will feature is a visit to one of the sites that exhibit the Philippine Tarsiers. BACLAYON CHURCH, TOWN OF BACLAYON La Purisima Concepcion de la Virgen Maria Parish Church, simply known as Baclayon Church, is the second oldest church in the Philippines - San Agustin Church in Intramuros in Manila is the first, its foundation laid in 1571. Baclayon Church's foundation was laid in 1717 by 200 natives working under forced labor until its completion in 1727. Can you imagine building this church with blocks of coral and egg-whites? Indeed, millions of egg-whites, with lime, were used as a cement to build this church. Somewhere underneath the church is a dungeon, a prison cell for natives who violated the rules of the Spaniards and Roman Catholic Church. Baclayon Church was the most preserved church in Bohol. That is until a 7.2 magnitude earthquake in 2013 damaged the church heavily. But it was restored and is now open to the public again. These photos was taken when we visited the church in 2010. ALBURQUERQUE CHURCH, TOWN OF ALBURQUERQUE Alburquerque Church, also known as St. Monica Church, located in the municipality of Alburquerque ("Albur" to locals), is one of the first stone churches in the Philippines. It was founded in 1842 after the town's separation from Baclayon town. The present church, which replaced the old church made of wood and bamboo, was started in 1885, under Father Manuel Muro. His successor completed it in mid-1900's. Linked to the church with an arcade is a convent established in 1879. The choir loft can be reached from the second floor of the convent, by crossing the arcade During the devastating 2013 earthquake, this church suffered minimal damage and was restored. Later, it was declared a National Historical Landmark in 2014 by the National Historical Institute. LOBOC RIVER So, if you want lunch and relax while cruising on the river, the town of Loboc is home to river lunch cruises. The Loboc River, also called Loay River, is one of the cleanest rivers in the Philippines. It passes through the town center of Loboc, and here you can experience the river by cruising the river on board floating restaurants, have a buffet lunch and be entertain by cultural groups by the riverside. You can also hire a small banca if you want to avoid a crowd. About the buffet food? I can't say much since the boat was about to leave when we hopped in and by the time we went to the buffet table there wasn't much choice. There is a Loboc Dinner cruise for which you can choose your own banca, but we didn't try that. RESORT HOTEL Bohol is not lacking for beautiful resorts. The one we stayed in has an infinity pool and at night there was a live band to entertain guests while having dinner. Although the sand was not quite as nice as other beaches you can find in the Philippines, the beautiful resort and the view will compensate for it. NOTE: When visiting Bohol, most tourists stay at one of the resorts on Panglao Island, which is connected to the main island by two bridges. This presents an opportunity to take a one-day island tour of Bohol, which should not be missed. NEXT...

Ever heard of Vortex? You might not know about the vortexes in Sedona, but they are actually internationally known as meditation sites. They are a kind of earth energy of which they say "you can get a lift just by coming into town". We all need a little lift in life, don't we? (spiritually, not by any other means, just saying). I say that you can get high just by looking at the amazing landscapes in Sedona. As John Muir said, "In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks" . He should know, he dedicated his life understanding nature. Indeed, nature's wonders have the power to inspire and uplift one's person, that's why we keep seeking them. BELL ROCK & COURT HOUSE BUTTE We started the day walking to Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte. I said "walk" and not hike because we didn't really hike here since we are saving it for Schuerman Mountain. Located between the Village of Oak Creek and Sedona, north of Highway 179, a major access route from I-17 to Sedona. There are two parking areas: from the south (Bell Rock Pathway and Vista) and from the north (Courthouse Vista). A pass is required to park. If you have an "America the Beautiful" pass then it 's free, one of the perks of being a senior. Coming from the Village of Oak Creek, we parked at the south trailhead. You won’t miss the Bell Rock since it resembles a giant a bell, hence the name. Geologically, Bell Rock (adjacent to Courthouse Butte) is a butte composed of horizontally bedded sedimentary rock of the Permian Supai Formation (part of the Schnebly Hill formation of sandstone and limestone). It was shaped by wind and water millions of years ago, after land rose above the sea. VORTEX SITES Bell Rock is one of the most prominent Sedona vortex sites. It was a prime gathering spot during 1987’s “Harmonic Convergence”, a name given to one of the world’s first globally synchronized events (meditation, music and dance), based on the ancient Mayan Calendar. The event was said to have closely coincided with an exceptional alignment of the planets. It was a massive event, even big names such as John Denver and Shirley MacLaine attended. They expected UFO sightings or communications with extraterrestrials. That did not happen, but this event apparently became the turning point for the culture and economy of Sedona. There are trails at Bell Rock which connect to different routes. The Bell Rock Loop Trail is a direct access to the Bell Rock Formation itself, about 1 to 1.5 miles. If you are aiming for a view, there is an easy to moderate 3.6 mile trail along the Bell Rock Pathway. On this same trail is a sign that connects to Courthouse Loop Butte Trail. These are popular trails among hikers, bikers, joggers and vortex seekers. You might not find the solitude you seek. To avoid the crowds, we usually come to popular places early, and we almost always have the place to ourselves. Also, it's nice to start the day early so there will be plenty of time to explore other attractions, maximizing the limited time we have. CHAPEL OF THE HOLY CROSS The landmark of Sedona is the Chapel of the Holy Cross. This chapel was built into the buttes of Sedona, commissioned by a local rancher and sculptor Marguerite Brunswig Staude. In 1932 she was inspired by the newly constructed Empire State Building to build this chapel. The chapel was initially planned to be built in Budapest, Hungary (with the help of Lloyd Wright, son of architect Frank Lloyd Wright), but was aborted due to the imminent beginning of World War II. She decided to build the chapel in her native region instead. Richard Hein was chosen as project architect, and the design was executed by architect August K. Strotz, both from the firm of Anshen & Allen. The chapel is built on Coconino National Forest land (the late Senator Barry Goldwater assisted Staude in obtaining a special-use permit). The chapel was built in 18 months at a cost of $300,000. When completed in 1956, it rose 70 feet above the red rock cliff. It is run by the Roman Catholic Diocese of Phoenix, as a part of St. John Vianney Parish in Sedona. The American Institute of Architects gave the Chapel its Award of Honor in 1957. In Marguerite Brunswig Staude's words, "Though Catholic in faith, as a work of art the Chapel has a universal appeal. Its doors will ever be open to one and all, regardless of creed, that God may come to life in the souls of all men and be a living reality." In 2007, Arizonans voted the Chapel to be one of the Seven Man-Made Wonders of Arizona. SCHNEBLY HIILL ROAD Before heading out to lunch we made another stop. Following up the Schnebly Hill Road we arrived at the Schnebly Hill Trailhead. But we didn't hike here, just walked a short way to a viewpoint where we could take some pictures. The Schnebly Hill Road is one of the most scenic routes in the Sedona area. It was a former cow trail, which became the main route from Sedona to Flagstaff before being replaced by the Oak Creek Canyon Road (US-89A) in 1914. This road continues past the trailhead where four wheel drive is required. We brought our car instead of the truck, so going up to the Schnebly Hill Vista was definitely out. Anyways, we couldn't do it all within the limited time we had and down by the trailhead we got plenty of photo ops as well. DINING IN SEDONA We stayed outside of town, in the Village of Oak Creek, but we didn’t have to drive to have dinner. Nearby, just a short walking distance is a Thai Restaurant called Tara Thai. I did not take photos (it was dark) and don’t remember what we ordered (it's hard when it comes to Asian food), but I remember the food was delicious, healthy and reasonably priced. We dined there again the next night. When it comes to food, I'm more adventurous, and mostly likely to order food that I haven't had before. Though I've had tuna sandwiches before, the tuna was from a can. This one was a slab of fresh grilled Yellow Fin Tuna, on toasted wheat berry bread. Sounds fancy doesn't it? I washed it down with cold tea (no alcohol for me) and it was a great lunch. For lunch, we ate at Oak Creek Brewery and Grill, located in historic Tlaquepaque. My husband, Hermann, is so predictable when it comes to food. He didn't even look hard to find what he likes. He ordered the Brewmaster’s Bomber, which is Bratwurst with sauerkraut on sourdough, with a side of onion rings. Plus, dark beer, of course, to quench his thirst. TLAQUEPAQUE After that satisfying meal and with our energy restored, we walked around Tlaquepaque (pronounced T-la-keh-pah-keh), the Arts and Crafts Shopping Village of Sedona at the very heart of Sedona beside Oak Creek. Tlaquepaque, meaning the "best of everything," has been Sedona's landmark since the 1970's. It is said to be the most distinctive shopping experience to be found in the Southwest. The village was fashioned after a traditional village in Mexico called Tlaquepaque. Its vine-covered stucco walls, cobble-stoned walkways and arched entryways was meant to look like it has been there for centuries. The area has beautiful natural surroundings, shaded by sycamore trees. It is a nice shopping area offering various one-of-a-kind gift items, arts and crafts to take home. You would want to spend time exploring here after exploring nature. You might spend more, but it is probably worth it. We couldn't possibly leave Sedona without at least doing a little hiking. PREVIOUS... TOWN OF SEDONA, CATHEDRAL ROCK

After visiting Petrified Forest National Park, we left the town of Holbrook early morning the next day and headed to Sedona. It's just about a two-hour drive - it can be longer depending on how much you want to stop along the way. We did stop, many times, how can we not since we drove the Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Drive, one of the Top 5 Most Scenic Drives in America it is claimed. There is plenty to see in and around Sedona. We probably need to keep coming back here, or maybe live there and join the flock of "snowbirds" who spend their winters in Arizona. But with so many beautiful places to explore, just in the United States alone, we haven’t been back since our last visit. As I’m writing this, I thought it is probably time to visit again. But first, let me talk about the Oak Creek Canyon. Some people catch up on sleep in between destinations, but they are missing a lot of those interesting experiences on a road trip. Some might find the scenery boring, but look closely and you will be surprised at what you might find. Nature after all has many interesting features, if you care to look. OAK CREEK CANYON The canyon is about a 14-mile drive along Route 89A, located between the cities of Sedona and Flagstaff. This National Scenic Byway is a picturesque winding road (it climbs 4,500 feet from Sedona to the top of the Mogollon Rim), which you can descend or ascend either from Flagstaff or Sedona. Oak Creek Canyon is located within the Coconino National Forest, and portions of the canyon have been designated federal wilderness areas, part of the Red Rock-Secret Mountain Wilderness. The United States Forest Service operates several campgrounds, picnic areas, and recreation areas within this canyon. In the canyon, you’ll cross the 200-foot Midgley Bridge. Near the bridge is a parking area with a good view of the bridge and the canyon. We just had to stop and investigate. Bridges fascinate me and my husband Hermann - the design, how and where they built. The surrounding area of Oak creek Canyon is a beautiful background for this bridge. MIDGLEY BRIDGE Midgley Bridge is named for a rancher, businessman, and good-roads advocate Major W.W. Midgley. The 200-foot-long, steel-arch bridge spans Wilson Canyon. This bridge is a popular picnic site. I can believe it since it offers beautiful views of Mitten Ridge and the surrounding red rock landscape. It is also the trail head for some hiking trails in Sedona: Wilson Canyon Trail (1.2 mile), Wilson Mountain Trail (12 miles), Huckaby Trail (5.3 miles). The construction of this bridge started in 1930 when the U.S. Bureau of Public Roads (BPR) began upgrading the route through Oak Creek Canyon. It served as the final link to State Highway 79 connecting Phoenix and Prescott to Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon and Flagstaff. This bridge is a highly used road and an architectural landmark. In Oct. 8, 2014, Midgley Bridge celebrated its 75th anniversary. RED STONE FORMATIONS When traveling you will find interesting facts about the places you visit and what makes the place extraordinary and special. One of these places is Sedona. As we drove near, we could see the natural landscapes the town is famous for - the colorful rock formations. Sedona is located at the southern end of the Oak Creek Canyon. It straddles the county line between Coconino and Yavapai counties, in the northern Verde Valley region, near Flagstaff. Located in the Upper Sonoran Desert of northern Arizona, it is a desert town surrounded by red-rock buttes (Steam Boat Rock, Courthouse Butte, Bell Rock and many others), steep canyon walls and cliffs and pine forests. The city of Sedona is located just at the base of the Mogollon Rim (layers of geological stone). The Mogollon Rim is an escarpment that stretches from across the center of Arizona, from northwest to the southeast. The escarpment is about 2,500 feet high. Lava covered this area in the last 8 million years. When it cooled, it formed a cap on the surface called basalt, a black rock, then was covered with other volcanic rocks. You wonder why these rock formations have different layers. It's one of those nature's wonders. Time and earth's many geological changes created many layers of different stone, and at one point covering the entire Sedona area. They were eroded over the years and formed these amazing landscapes we see today. The area around Sedona was at sea bottom 330 million years ago, and the shells of sea creatures formed a layer of limestone which became a foundation called Redwall limestone. It is dark brown and 300 to 600 feet thick containing marine fossils. The second layer is the sandstone, or Supai Sandstone (a red bed deposit of sedimentary rock), deposited during the Permian Period, when earth’s major landmass was still a single super-continent known as Pangaea (between 280 and 300 million years ago). Over time, more layers of different stone accumulated on top of each other: Hermit Shale, Schnebly Hill Sandstone, Coconino Sandstone, Toroweap Formation, Kaibab Limestone, Moenkopi Formation, Rim Gravels and Basalt (lava) Cap. Although not all of these layers are present in Sedona, the Schnebly Hill Formation can only be found in the Sedona vicinity. It is a thick layer of red to orange-colored sandstone (due to the presence of hematite, an iron oxide otherwise known as rust). Exposure to the elements caused iron to oxidize or “rust,” resulting in red, orange, and brown-colored rock - a chemical weathering of natural minerals. The city of Sedona is built near the top of the Hermit Formation or Hermit Shale, consisting of soft, easily eroded sedimentary rock (siltstone, mudstone, sandstone and shale), a dark rust colored layer about 300 feet thick formed 270 million years ago. SEDONA’S FIRST INHABITANTS In addition to marine artifacts, there are human artifacts found from the first inhabitants in Sedona as well. The first documented human presence in the Sedona area dates to between 11,500 and 9000 B.C. These were the Archaic people, the hunter-gatherers. They left an assortment of rock art in places near Sedona such as Palatki and Honanki. After them came the Sinagua people known for their pottery, basketry and masonry. They left rock art, pueblos, and cliff dwellings (Montezuma Castle, Honanki, Palatki and Tuzigoot). The Yavapai came after them, the nomadic hunter-gatherers. Then came the Apache groups, a nomadic or semi-nomadic people. The Yavapai and Apache tribes were forcibly removed from the Verde Valley in 1876, to the San Carlos Indian Reservation. Later, about 200 Yavapai and Apache people returned to the Verde Valley in 1900, and have since intermingled as a single political entity although culturally distinct. They contribute to the arts and culture of Sedona today. THE CENTER OF TOWN In the center of town the beautiful shops are calling, waiting to be discovered. I don't have to buy, I just want to see what they have (my all time excuse), but who can resist with all the beautiful items spread out and displayed in front of you. Sedona is one of our favorite towns. It was established in 1902 but did not become a popular destination until the 1960’s. It was named after Sedona Arabella Miller Schnebly (1877–1950), the wife of Theodore Carlton Schnebly, the city's first postmaster. She was known for her hospitality and industriousness. Sedona is noted for its mild winters and hot summers; no wonder this place is popular. The negative side is the heavy traffic and the crowds in summer. I guess it is the same in any popular places you go to anywhere in the world. I know not everyone has the flexibility of traveling like we do, but we avoid traveling during peak seasons for a better experience. Sedona bustles with shops and art galleries, as well as gourmet restaurants. You won’t get hungry or thirsty or be lacking for souvenirs to take home. The diverse culture (spiritual healers, mountain bikers, hikers, artists, nature photographers, film makers) has something for everyone. Shopping or window shopping is an experience by itself. There are plenty of beautiful specialty products, from wine, arts & crafts, jewelry shops to crystals for spiritual healing. You won’t be able to resist buying something. We sure couldn’t resist buying the local wine. They do have good local wine selections, as well as plenty of wineries and vineyards or tasting rooms you can visit if you have the time. NEXT... CATHEDRAL ROCK BELL ROCK, CHAPEL OF THE HOLY CROSS, SCHNEBLY HILL & TLAQUEPAQUE

What is there to see in the state of Virginia? For one, the state is one of the 13 original colonies in North America. The state has plenty of historic landmarks such as Monticello, (Thomas Jefferson’s Charlottesville Plantation), Jamestown Settlement and Colonial Williamsburg, to name a few. Virginia is also called the “Mother of Presidents”, because eight U.S Presidents were born here: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, James Monroe, William Henry Harrison, John Tyler, Zachary Taylor & Woodrow Wilson. But before Europeans settled the area, the Monacan and Siouans - Tutelo speaking Native American tribes - occupied this area. For history buffs, there is no shortage of historic sites to explore in Virginia. On this visit, we were able to visit two: Monticello and Williamsburg, two significant historic sites in the United States. MONTICELLO Monticello (mon-tee-CHEL-oh), was home to Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States (1801-1809) and the principal author of the Declaration of Independence. Monticello is located at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, outside of Charlottesville in Albemarle County, in the Piedmont region of central Virginia. The 5,000 acres property has been designated a National Historic Landmark due to its architectural and historic significance. In 1987, Monticello and the nearby University of Virginia (also designed and founded by Jefferson), were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Jefferson built Monticello (the name derives from the Italian word for "little mount") on a nearby hilltop of the property he inherited from his father at the age of 21. He started preparing to build the mansion in 1768, on the highest point of the hilltop where he roamed as a child. He designed the mansion, the garden, outbuildings and grounds of Monticello himself. Jefferson’s land provided most of the construction materials (lumber, stone, limestone, bricks, etc.) for building his Monticello. Other materials such as nails were made on the property. The mansion Jefferson built was inspired by architecture in France while serving he there as U.S. Ambassador from 1785-1789. The mansion was built and rebuilt for over a period of forty years, not quite achieving the neoclassical look he wanted. He referred to the ongoing construction of his home as his “Essay in Architecture”. He must have been a perfectionist, which is not surprising for such an intelligent and talented man. A genius in many ways I would think. As Franklin D. Roosevelt once wrote, “More than any historic home in America, Monticello speaks to me as expression of the personality of its builder.” Indeed, his house and surrounding property reflects the many interests, collections and mementos Jefferson had accumulated and achieved throughout his lifetime. From politics, science, archaeology, language, music, botany, architecture to cooking, he was a man of many talents. Jefferson served two terms as the third President of the United States, but refused a third term. Instead, he turned his attention to his beloved Monticello, and continued to pursue his many interests including education. Thus he founded the University of Virginia in 1819. He financed it with the money from his vast collection of books (6,700 volumes) which he sold to the Library of Congress in 1815, replacing the books that were lost when the British burned the U.S. Capitol during the War of 1812. Mulberry Row Jefferson's estate was a working farm. He owned over 5,000 acres in Bedford County (at Poplar Forest), and 5,000 acres in Albemarle County. He also owned an estimated 600 slaves, some of which were inherited from his father and father-in-law. Over one hundred of these slaves tended to the needs of Monticello. Quarters were provided for domestic slaves. Adjacent to the mansion is the Mulberry Row where numerous outbuildings for various specialized functions and trades (dairy, wash house, store house, a nail factory joinery etc.) were located. Some outbuildings remain intact but only the foundations survived for most. Some of the outbuildings that survived at Monticello are the stone weaver's cottage, the chimney of the joinery and the cabin that served as of Sally Hemings - the household slave and half-sister of Jefferson’s wife. It is believed that Jefferson had a 38-year relationship with her after his wife died. She bore six children by him, four of whom survived to adulthood. However, some scholars believed the evidence conducted on Sally’s descendants' DNA was insufficient. There is a possibility that Jefferson’s brother or any of his family could have fathered Sally Hemings's children. JEFFERSON AS A GARDENER "I have lived temperately, eating little animal food, and that . . . as a condiment for the vegetables, which constitute my principal diet." No wonder Jefferson planted so many varieties of vegetables. It was his main diet. The estate has extensive gardens which not only provided food for Monticello, it was also Jefferson’s experimental plot - a laboratory on different species of plants. He was an avid horticulturist. In fact, he kept a detailed diary of his garden, recording the various varieties of fruits, vegetables and flowers he planted, as well as his successes and failures. Conservationists re-created the vegetable pavilion in 1979, showing as best they could what what the garden was like in Jefferson's time. As I love gardening myself, I can imagine the estate's gardens at their peak, even today. It must have been an incredible sight in spring and summer. Alas, we visited the estate in the fall, but we still found several flowering plants that were in bloom. After exploring the grounds of Monticello, we followed the path down to the cemetery where he is buried. Jefferson died at the age of 83 and was buried on the grounds (upon his request), in the Monticello Cemetery. The cemetery is owned today by the Monticello Association, a society of his descendants through Martha Wayles Skelton Jefferson. Jefferson died leaving behind debts. One source I read says that he was in debt most of his life. You will wonder why, but then of course spending lavishly on books, on his house and many other interests, as well as feeding his steady stream of house guests (as much as 50 persons at a time), servicing the obligations he inherited from his father-in-law, among other things, will have kept him deeply in debt. Jefferson designed his own gravestone and wrote his own epitaph. It says simply: "Here was buried Thomas Jefferson Author of the Declaration of American Independence of the Statute of Virginia for religious freedom and Father of the University of Virginia." The estate was already entering the early stages of decay when Jefferson died and his daughter Martha Jefferson Randolph was forced to sell the property. The property was auctioned off a year after he died. In 1834 it was bought by Uriah P. Levy, a commodore in the U.S. Navy, who admired Jefferson. He spent his own money to preserve the property. His nephew Jefferson Monroe Levy took over in 1879 who also invested considerable money to restore and preserve it. He later sold it in 1923, to the Thomas Jefferson Foundation (TJF). Jefferson served the country for almost five decades. He was a lawyer, architect, writer, farmer and a scientist. The current nickel, a United States coin, features a depiction of Monticello on its reverse side. It was interesting to see a glimpse of Thomas Jeffferson's life. It was worth visiting the place and learning something of a man who helped shape the United States. Instead of going back up to Monticello to catch the bus back down to the Visitor's Center, we opted to walk. We followed the trail back down to the parking lot from the cemetery. If we had known, we could have just walked up to the mansion. The path is nice and quiet, surrounded by the estate's many trees. OTHER HISTORIC SITES TO VISIT IN VIRGINIA:

For history buffs, Colonial Williamsburg is one historic site worth visiting. Reading history books is satisfying, but visiting places where history actually happened is a different experience altogether. It will take you back in time. Well, at least a glimpse of what it used to be at that time. United States is called the “New World”. It is indeed new compared to Europe, but America is full of history, all the way back from when the first colonists arrived. (If you want detailed accounts of how the first settlers sailed to America and how they faced the many challenges in order to survive, read the "Mayflower" book by Nathaniel Philbrick). Anyhow, fast forward to the 18th century, to Williamsburg in Virginia where the United States was born (although other colonies played a significant role as well) and a nation evolved. Williamsburg was founded in 1632 as Middle Plantation, a settlement located between the James and York Rivers. It served as the capital of the Colony and Commonwealth of Virginia from 1699 to 1780. Also, it was the center of political events in Virginia which later led to the American Revolution. Williamsburg made a significant contribution to American history. THE HISTORIC COLONIAL TOWN Williamsburg was established as the new capital of the Virginia Colony from 1699 until 1780. Together with Jamestown and Yorktown, Colonial Williamsburg forms part of the Historic Triangle in Virginia. It is a living history museum. Reverend Dr. W.A.R. Goodwin (buried in Bruton Parish church) was the person behind persuading John D. Rockefeller Jr. to help finance re-building the Colonial Williamsburg in the 1920s (though Rockefeller was not identified with the project until early 1928). The restoration later passed on to the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation. Colonial Williamsburg stretches over 301 acres, and includes 88 structures. These houses, shops, inns and public buildings were re-constructed on their original foundations, as close as possible to their original appearance. Some are open to the public and we visited a few of these. The Capitol Before the Capitol was built, there was the Jamestown Statehouse. It was destroyed by fire several times. After it was burned for the fourth time in 1698, the House of Burgesses (meaning “Citizens” in English terminology), decided to move the colony's government to Middle Plantation, which they renamed Williamsburg. On May 18, 1699, members of the House of Burgesses (the first elected legislative assembly in the American colonies) resolved to build the first American structure and named it "Capitol". In this building, Patrick Henry (one member of the assembly) delivered his "Caesar-Brutus" speech against the British Stamp Act, on May of 1765. (Patrick Henry is famously quoted today from another speech he made - “Give me liberty, or give me death” - on March 23, 1775). Patrick Henry's Stamp Act speech resulted in violent protests in America and among the colonists. The House of Burgesses members (Patrick Henry, George Washington, George Mason, George Wythe, Richard Henry Lee, Thomas Jefferson, and others) played their parts in the legislative wars that resulted in revolution. Every four years, the Virginia General Assembly (the state legislature of the Commonwealth of Virginia) leaves the current Capitol in Richmond, and meets for one day in the restored Capitol building at Colonial Williamsburg. The most recent session (the 26th) was held in January 2016. Governor’s Palace The Governor’s Palace was home to seven royal governors, As well as post-colonial governors, Patrick Henry and Thomas Jefferson. The purpose of the palace was to elevate the position of the governor, commensurate with his position as representative of the Crown in the New World. It was designed as a residence as well as a place for receptions for dignitaries. The building, which underwent 16 years of construction, was so expensive that it was said to deserved the designation of "Palace”. It was during Governor Alexander Spotswood's administration (1710-1722) that the palace was finally finished and furnished, and provided with other amenities such as gardens, fish ponds, etc. The Governor's Palace is flanked on either side by two brick buildings with gabled roofs. There are a stable, carriage house, kitchen, scullery, laundry and octagonal bath house in an area called the service yard. The Public Magazine The brick and mortar octagonal building called the Public Magazine (also called “The Powder Horn”) is located in the middle of Colonial Williamsburg. It was the colony’s arms and ammunition storage. The tall octagonal tower was admired by a visitor, Sir William Keith, as "an elegant safe Magazine, in the Centre of Williamsburg." Before the Magazine was built, the colonies stored their ammunition in their barn cellars and meeting house attics. As you can imagine, accidents happened and some ignited and exploded. To prevent these accidents, as well as to keep track of inventory, Governor Spotswood proposed putting all the ammunition in one place. Thus, the construction of the Magazine was authorized by the Virginia General Assembly. Spotswood (who also designed Bruton Parish Church and landscaped the Governor's Palace), was authorized to spend £200 from taxes collected on the import of liquor and slaves. It was completed in 1715. The Magazine protected the colony's arms, munitions and other supplies (shot, powder, flints, tents, tools, swords, pikes, canteens, cooking utensils, and as many as 3,000 Brown Bess flintlocks), against Indians, slave revolts, riots and pirate raids. But somehow not against the later Governor of Virginia, Lord Dunmore. Lord Dunmore, fearing the colonists' revolt against the crown, he ordered the British soldiers to steal the barrels of gunpowder stored inside the Magazine in the dead of night on April 20, 1775. The incident, was referred to as the “Gunpowder Affair” (or Gunpowder Incident). It precipitated the great American revolution. Later on, starting in the late 1700’s, the Magazine, which was not being used for military purposes anymore, became a market house, then a Baptist meeting house (in the 1850's), a dancing school before the civil war, and a livery school. The Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities restored the building that we see today. George Wythe House The George Wythe House is said to be the most handsome colonial house in Williamsburg. The two-story brick house is believed to have been designed in the mid-1750's by George Wythe's father-in-law, the surveyor, builder and planter, Richard Taliaferro (pronounced "Tolliver"), who also built the addition to the Governor's Palace. George Wythe (pronounced “with”) and his wife Elizabeth (Richard Taliaferro's daughter), lived in the home for more than thirty years. Taliaferro's will in 1779 gave George and Elizabeth use of the property for life. After Elizabeth died in 1787, George moved to Richmond in 1791 to serve as a judge on Virginia’s court of Chancery. George Wythe was a leader of the patriot movement in Virginia, a delegate to the Continental Congress, and Virginia’s first signer of the Declaration of Independence. One of the most influential men of the Revolutionary era, George Wythe ranks among colonial America’s finest lawyers, legal scholars, and teachers. Among the young men Wythe trained in the law were Thomas Jefferson, St. George Tucker, and John Marshall. In 1779, Wythe joined the College of William & Mary faculty to become the first law professor in the United States. He taught classes in the vacant Capitol after Virginia's government moved to Richmond in 1780. The George Wythe House also served as General George Washington's headquarters just before the British siege of Yorktown, which ended in 1781. French General Rochambeau made the house his headquarters after the victory at Yorktown. In 1926, the Reverend Dr. W.A.R. Goodwin (of adjoining Bruton Parish Church), established his offices on the second floor of the George Wythe house after acquiring it for a parish house. The offices served for a time as headquarters during the Historic Area's restoration. Colonial Williamsburg obtained the property in 1938. The home has been furnished to look as it might have when George and Elizabeth Wythe resided in it. Restaurants and Shops If you get hungry exploring Colonial Williamsburg, there are several taverns that were converted into restaurants (as well as inns). You just have to research beforehand which is best, or chose which you think serves the best food. We chose the most popular one to have lunch, but the meal was not what we expected, not something to boast about. Maybe, we just chose the wrong meal? There is no shortage of restaurants, even at the Merchant's Square. Bruton Parish Church The Bruton Parish Episcopal Church, located in the heart of Colonial Williamsburg, has been a parish for more than 300 years. The church was named in honor of the ancestral home (the town of Bruton in County Somerset in England) of the prominent Ludwell family and of Virginia Governor Sir William Berkeley. At the height of the church's prominence, at the beginning of 18th century, it was the center of activity for both the townspeople and the government in Williamsburg. The Burgesses, who led the fight for independence and created the new government, worshiped at this church, and aired their complaints here after the Stamp Act passed in 1765. Special services also took place here before the revolution. Bruton Church became a hospital and a store house during the battle of Yorktown in 1781. The church also served as a hospital for wounded confederate soldiers after the battle of Williamsburg in May of 1862. The church eventually declined and efforts to restore it began in 1800's. But in 1903, the Reverend Dr. W. A. R. Goodwin, who became rector, took over the restoration. The church today is a replica, part of the restoration project financed by John D. Rockefeller. Trade in Colonial Williamsburg We also explored craftsmen's workshops, including a printing shop, a shoemaker's, blacksmith's, a cooperage, a cabinetmaker, a gunsmith's, a wigmaker's, and a silversmith's. The people who re-enact the trades actually train to genuinely re-create the specialized products people made back then. Below are examples of some of those trades. Food played a very important role in the social lives of 18th-century Virginians. Dining was one of the most important occasions where colonial Virginians exchanged information. THE MERCHANT’S SQUARE Colonial Williamsburg extends to Merchants Square, a Colonial Revival commercial area built in 1935. It was designed as an 18th century style retail village, known as Colonial Revival, with over forty shops and restaurants. It is a nice area to hang out, rest or explore shops. Who can’t resist chocolate? I recommend Wythe candy and Gourmet Shop. Their chocolates are truly decadent. I wish we had bought more, since what we bought didn't last long. So, I asked my husband, Hermann, what is special about peanuts in Virginia. He has no idea why, except that when his sister got married in the chapel of William and Mary years ago, peanut soup was one of the foods they served at the reception. He says, it didn't go over very well. I haven't had it so I can't tell, but I bought a cook book (I collect cook books) with recipes from Colonial Williamsburg. That is one recipe I have to try. One thing I noticed though is that peanuts in Virginia are big. COLLEGE OF WILLIAM AND MARY At the end of Merchant's Square is the beginning of the campus of the College of William and Mary. The second-oldest institution of higher education in the United States (Harvard was first). It was founded in 1693 under royal charter issued by King William III and Queen Mary II, as a public school for both Native American young men and the sons of the colonists. James Blair, commissary of the Bishop of London in Virginia and founder of the college, was the president for 50 years. In 1918, William & Mary became one of the first universities in Virginia to admit women and become coeducational. During this time, enrollment increased from 104 students in 1889 to 1269 students by 1932. It is the only one of the nine colonial colleges that is located in the South. Its alumni include three U.S. Presidents (Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe and John Tyler) as well as many other important figures in the nation's early history. OTHER HISTORIC SITES TO VISIT IN VIRGINIA:

Another trip to California and more significant places to see along the way. This time we went to the Four Corners Monument and Grand Canyon National Park, staying the first night in the town of Cortez, located in the southwestern part of Colorado, in an area known as the “High Desert”. The town of Cortez (named after the Spanish Conquistador Hernán Cortés), was built in 1886 to provide housing for the men working on the water tunnels and irrigation ditches. These men diverted water out of the Dolores River and into Montezuma Valley. But they were not the first inhabitants in the Cortez area; before them, nomads lived here as far back as 10,000 BC, subsisting by hunting game and gathering food plants. Then the Puebloans came who developed a civilization throughout the four corners region between AD 1 to AD 1300. They left behind ruins and artifacts that we visit today, such as the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park, for example. The town of Cortez is a gateway to both the mountains and the desert, an ideal stopping point for visitors to the Four Corners. From Cortez to the monument is just about 40 miles or so, less than an hour drive. FOUR CORNERS MONUMENT The Four Corners Monument, also known as Four Corners Tribal Park, is the only place in the United States where four states meet at a common point (southwestern corner of Colorado, southeastern corner of Utah, northeastern corner of Arizona, and northwestern corner of New Mexico). The monument is located within the Colorado Plateau just to the west of U.S. Highway 160. The monument is a political boundary between the four states, but it also serves as the boundary between two semi-autonomous Native American governments, the Navajo Nation and the Ute and the Ute Mountain Tribes Reservation. In the 16th century, this area was claimed by Spain as part of "New Spain". When Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821, Mexico governed the area until being ceded to the United States by the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848, following the United States' victory in the Mexican-American War. The monument's location is remote and isolated but still a popular place to visit. As early as 1908, people traveled long distances here to take pictures. According to a vendor we talked to, there can be a long line of people waiting to be photographed in all four states at the same time, especially in summer. About 250,000 people a year come to this place. There is a fee to enter the monument. No matter, we got to visit the monument early in the morning. An early start means a chilly morning and it was. A typical cold desert climate during wintertime can go down to -18 °F (summers can go up to 105 °F). We were the first visitors to arrive and the place was so quiet. We pretty much had the place to ourselves except for the native Americans (Navajo and Ute artisans) selling souvenirs at the stalls surrounding the monument. At this time of year and early hours there was no one waiting to take pictures with the monument. We did it on "all fours", of course. The Native Americans probably have seen all kinds of weird things and poses people do in the monument, so they wouldn't care. Standing on "all fours" is not weird. I could probably have lain down if not for the freezing pavement. Visiting the monument might not be on your bucket list, but if you are visiting the Southwest, you might as well visit here. THE MONUMENT This park is run by the Navajo Nation Parks and Recreation Department. They maintain this monument as a tourist attraction. How did the monument come about? The four state borders were surveyed in four different years: 1868 (Colorado & New Mexico), 1875 (Arizona & New Mexico), 1878 (Colorado & Utah), 1901 (Arizona & Utah). A sandstone shaft which originally marked the two first intersections is where the Four Corners Monument stands today. The first marked stone was put in place by Ehud N. Darling, the first surveyor to establish the territorial boundary between Colorado and New Mexico. It was replaced by a 7-foot sandstone shaft marker, placed in 1875 by Chandler Robins, the second surveyor who established the border between Arizona and New Mexico. When the marker broke down, it was replaced with a new stone in 1899. This broke later on and was replaced with a brass marker in 1931, with the state border lines and names inscribed on it. In 1992, the monument was completely rebuilt and the marker was replaced yet again, but with a disc-shaped aluminum-bronze plate set in granite. It hasn’t been replaced again since 2010 when the latest upgrade was constructed. On the granite it says: "Here Meet in Freedom Under God Four States" Imagine how surveying was done in those days? Today it's easy, with the help of digital technology you can get the exact location right on target. Back then it was probably painstakingly slow and inaccurate at some point. No wonder a controversy about the monument's exact location was debated, but it "fizzled out" when the Supreme Court ruled the original survey as the official borders. According to the National Geodetic Survey, “A basic tenet of boundary surveying is that once a monument has been established and accepted by the parties involved, the location of the physical monument is the ultimate authority in delineating a boundary.” SOUVENIRS TO TAKE HOME What is there to do after taking pictures? Browse the gift stalls around the monument of course. Who can resist, with so many beautiful Native American handmade gift items and souvenirs spread out in front of you? From the cheapest to expensive ones, there are plenty of choices. That day, only a few stalls were occupied so we didn't linger much. Visitors were starting to arrive as we left. It probably didn't get too crowded since it was out of season, but we were glad we were early. With visiting the Four Corners done, we can say, “we’ve been there and done that". Next, it was on to the Grand Canyon National Park. We had been avoiding going to the Grand Canyon before due to the park's popularity and because it was never on our way to somewhere else, but we just had to see it this time. OTHER SIGNIFICANT SITES TO VISIT IN THE AREA: Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Canyon de Chelly National Monument

When you think about visiting Arizona, your first thought is the Grand Canyon. There are other beautiful sites to visit in this state, but this park must be the most popular of all sites to visit in the area. If you haven't been there, you will know why once you have seen it. Photos can't do justice to what you will personally see while visiting. Driving from the Four Corners Monument to Grand Canyon National Park takes a little over three hours. About 206 miles following US-Hwy 160 to US-89 south, then to AZ-64 and to the east entrance to the park. It is a very scenic drive with beautiful desert landscape found only in the west. THE PARK Grand Canyon National Park is located in Coconino County in northwestern Arizona. It is the 15th park to be named a national park, officially designated on February 16, 1919 (the park was well known for over 30 years prior to that). It was also designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979. The park covers 1,217,262 acres of unincorporated (not governed by a local municipal corporation) area. The park’s main feature is the canyon, a gorge of the Colorado River considered one of the wonders of the world. More than six million people visited this place in 2017, the second most visited of all U.S. National Parks after Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The canyon is indeed grand, a fitting name for such an incredible landscape. In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt visited this site and said: "The Grand Canyon fills me with awe. It is beyond comparison—beyond description; absolutely unparalleled through-out the wide world... Let this great wonder of nature remain as it now is. Do nothing to mar its grandeur, sublimity and loveliness. You cannot improve on it. But what you can do is to keep it for your children, your children's children, and all who come after you, as the one great sight which every American should see." Indeed we cannot improve on it. As they say, "nature takes care of itself"; all we have to do is to preserve it for the next generation to enjoy. Plants and Wildlife The entire park area of the Grand Canyon is considered semi-arid desert, but there are many different plant species and animals (mule deer, cliff chipmunk, plateau lizard) that are well adapted to the conditions of the land and climate here. Distinct habitats can be found at different elevations in the park starting at the Colorado River at the bottom, continuing up to the top of the canyon rim. Riparian vegetation and sandy beaches, desert scrub species, Douglas-fir, pinyon and juniper woodland, ponderosa pine and spruce-fir forest on top. Without water, these habitats would not thrive. Water is the lifeblood of the Grand Canyon. The Colorado River and its tributaries, as well as springs, little pools and seepage provide a sustaining lifeline to both flora and fauna in this area. The canyon supports wildlife such as the the California Condor which was re-introduced in the area to prevent its extinction. The canyon wall provides their nesting sites. They have thrived here and were brought back from the brink of extinction (although they are still under threat due to lead poisoning ingested from animals shot by hunters). Early Settlers People have been part of the Grand Canyon's history and culture for centuries. Based on archaeological evidence, hunter-gatherers passed through the canyon 10,000 or more years ago. Then ancestral Puebloan people have lived in and around the canyon for several thousand years, leaving behind dwellings and artifacts. When early explorers of the canyon and the Colorado River documented the power of the river and its immense size, miners came to exploit its resources. Later, the tourism industry set up tent camps and lodging. From 1933 until 1942 at least seven companies of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) lived and worked in Grand Canyon National Park. The CCC was a work program designed by the government to provide jobs during the country's worst economic depression, providing jobs for young men who helped in conservation projects on both state and federal lands. Most of the trails that you walk today were built by the CCC. THE SOUTH RIM There are two areas you can visit at Grand Canyon National Park, the South and North Rims. The South Rim is more accessible than the North Rim and most visitors flock here due to its easy access from the highway. The north rim, closer to the Utah border, is rugged and remote and is open only from May to October. It is much higher than the south rim and therefore gets lots more snow. We came from the Four Corners area and entered the park by the east entrance to the south rim. There are many hiking trails in the park and we planned on doing at least one on this trip, just an easy one-way hike, nothing extreme. But we found out that bus services are not available during winter time. So we did what most of the visitors do - we drove along the south rim and stopped at many viewpoints. Some 30 miles of the South Rim are accessible by road. The Grand Canyon’s size and depth is an awe-inspiring experience to see. It contains amazing rock formations and an extensive system of tributary canyons. You will understand why the park is considered one of the natural wonders of the world. Take time to read the many interpretative signs at the park. It will be a learning experience worthy of your time. May it be natural or man-made, there is plenty of history behind of what you see today. The canyon itself is full of historic and natural development. Looking at the views in the park you will be awed at its beauty, but you will wonder why the canyon has many different colors and layers. Looking at the views you wouldn’t think that a mining operation once thrived here. Located on the South Rim two miles north of Grand Canyon Village (between Maricopa Point and the Powell Memorial), the area was mined for copper in the early 20th century. Then in 1951, uranium was found here and resulted in a big mining operation for thirteen years. Today, the waste left behind in the mine is a multi-million clean-up job. THE CANYON The story of how the canyon was created is long and complex, but begins with the formation of rocks (igneous and metamorphic) about 2 billion years ago. Then many layers of different sedimentary rocks (sandstone, shale or mudstone, and limestone) were laid on top of each other creating various shades of earth tone colors from cream, reddish-brownish to purplish. These layers of rocks formed deep beneath the surface of the earth. The Kaibab Limestone (the youngest layer) was formed at the bottom of the ocean about 250 million years ago, but today covers the top of the Colorado Plateau. What happened between 70 and 30 million years ago, is that the whole region was uplifted, resulting in what is now called the Colorado Plateau, encompassing the whole Four Corners region. The exposed layers of these colorful sedimentary rocks are rich with marine fossils. The layered rock trapped and preserved these fossils which are invaluable in discovering the region’s geologic history, which geologists are still studying. The arid climate in the area has been instrumental in preserving many prehistoric records. There are no dinosaur fossils here, however. If you are looking for some, they can be found at the Triassic-aged Chinle Formation on the Navajo Reservation and at Petrified Forest National Park, a one-of-a-kind park worth visiting. DESERT VIEW WATCHTOWER Also known as the Indian Watchtower, Desert View is an Ancestral Style Puebloan tower designed by American architect Mary Colter (known as the architect of the southwest and employee of the Fred Harvey Company). The tower was aptly named due to the over 100 mile panoramic views the tower provides on a clear day. The four-story tower was completed in 1932, inspired by ancient Native American watchtowers (such as the Hovenweep and the Round Tower of Mesa Verde). Its design was intended to blend into the environment. According to the architect, “First and most important, was to design a building that would become part of its surroundings; one that would create no discordant note against the time eroded walls of this promontory.” Inside, you will find murals done by Fred Kabotie, a Hopi artist, representing the physical and spiritual origins of Hopi life. Other images inside are pictographs painted by Fred Geary who was in charge of art and decorating for the Fred Harvey restaurant system of the Santa Fe Railroad. LODGING & DINING We stayed just outside the Grand Canyon National Park, in Tusayan, a town high in the Kaibab Forest, near the Grand Canyon National Park Airport. Tusayan is the smallest town in Arizona, by area, but it is the gateway to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon (just about 2 miles to the park boundary). If you don't want to drive, a shuttle bus is available to take visitors to the park’s main Visitor Center every 20 minutes between March to September. Although there are several restaurants nearby, we opted to eat at the hotel’s restaurant. One thing about traveling in winter - it gets chilly at night, and we don’t want to be walking far or even driving looking for a good restaurant after being on our feet the whole day. The hotel’s restaurant offers a good meal. NOTE: The Grand Canyon Village, the park headquarters, is not far from the south entrance. It is a full-service community, including lodging, fuel, food, souvenirs, a hospital, churches, access to trails and guided walks. The village contains numerous landmark buildings many of which originated back during the railroad construction from Williams, Arizona, to the canyon's South Rim by the Santa Fe Railroad in 1901. OTHER ACTIVITIES IN THE PARK Hiking There are no easy trails into or out of the Grand Canyon. An attempt to hike from the rim to the river and back in one day is not advisable. You will know why after you attempted it. Hiking during the hottest part of the day is not a good idea either. This is Arizona after all, desert country which gets really hot, especially in summer. One famous trail in the Grand Canyon is the Bright Angel Trail. The trail descends steeply down along the fault line of the canyon, one of the few breaks in the massive cliff faces that otherwise prohibit descent into the canyon. Even if you are an avid hiker, hiking the Grand Canyon is very different from most other hiking experiences. This hike will test your physical and mental endurance. But many have successfully hiked the canyon, no matter what age. It’s just a matter of how prepared you are, mentally and physically. A friend of ours (a woman in her 70’s) backpacked down the canyon several times and told us what it’s like. You will probably think that at her age if she can do it anyone can do it. But she is different, she is an avid hiker, backpacker, cross country skier and a mountain biker. In other words, she is “well-seasoned” when it comes to outdoors. Lodging down the Canyon There is an option of hiking down into the canyon if you don’t want to carry a heavy backpack with all your provisions (food, tent and water). That is, if you can reserve a room way ahead of time, as in 15 months ahead of time. The Phantom Ranch provides lodging, food and mules to carry your stuff. All you have to do is to hike down and up the next day, for a hefty fee of course. So, as much as we wanted to hike down the canyon with mules carrying our stuff, we haven’t done it so far. Is it worth it? For some it is. OTHER NATIONAL PARKS & MONUMENTS TO EXPLORE IN ARIZONA PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL PARK SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK MONUMENT VALLEY NAVAJO TRIBAL PARK CANYON DE CHELLY NATIONAL MONUMENT

Taughannock (pronounced Tuh-GA-nick) Falls, is located in Ulysses, New York, between the village of Trumansburg and the city of Ithaca. The park is also part of the Finger Lakes Region. The fall was named after a chief of an invading Delaware tribe, who was tossed over the falls by Cayuga Indians. TAUGHANNOCK FALLS STATE PARK There used to be a hotel at the upper viewpoint, built in the 1890's. It changed hands several times until the business declined and later the hotel burned to ground. In the early 1900's, the Finger Lakes State Park Commission bought the overlook. The park was created in 1925. The Civilian Conservation Corps built much of the infrastructure in the 1930's. The beautiful overlook and the visitor center today was the result of a $1.9 million upgrade. Taughannock Falls is 30 feet higher than Niagara Falls and is the highest free-flowing waterfall east of the Mississippi River. It was a spectacular view from the overlook as the water plunges 215 feet down to the gorge. But take the short ¾ mile gorge trail below to see the waterfalls up close and personal - not too close if you don’t want to get wet from the mist. You won’t be disappointed. It was a different scenery altogether. HIKING TO TAUGHANNOCK FALLS Even at the beginning of the trail there was a small waterfall where anglers congregate in a small pool below. Hermann was itching to catch one himself as he saw the big rainbow trout caught by one of the anglers. Isn't nature wonderful? The Gorge Trail is an easy walk, or hike. The trail is flat, wide and well maintained. But you don’t want to hurry in reaching the waterfalls, there is a lot to be seen, nature-wise, along the way. OTHER HIKING TRAILS TO EXPLORE IN FINGER LAKES REGION: WATKINS GLEN STATE PARK AND VILLAGE OF MONTOUR FALLS HIKING AT BUTTERMILK FALLS

If you haven't been to the Finger Lakes Region, you are missing something wonderful that nature has to offer. If you are into nature and want to escape the hustle and bustle of New York City, take note of this region. That is, if you haven't been there yet. The state of New York has plenty of state parks, state forests, wildlife areas, landmarks and historic sites. We only had two full days and we opted to see some of the great waterfalls in the Finger Lakes Region - Buttermilk Falls State Park, Taughannock Falls State Park, Watkins Glen State Park and the town of Montour Falls. The Finger Lakes region is named after the area's eleven long, narrow lakes, which are oriented north to south and stretch from east to west. The map-makers in the early days saw these lakes as human fingers, hence the name. This region is one of the best places to visit in New York State when it comes to nature. Incredible waterfalls abound. The region is also known for its wines and wineries of which many are open for visitors. Considering the native history of the area, museums are plenty, recognizing the Seneca and Iroquois peoples, who lived in the Finger Lakes area even before the arrival of the Europeans. Fishing and other water sports are popular distractions in this tourist playground. THE PARK Buttermilk is an unusual name for a waterfall, but it takes its name from its foamy water as it cascades down from the high ground above. The waterfall at the lower part of the park is impressive enough - you might want to just stay there. But taking the gorge trail is even better. The Gorge Trail is short but steep in some parts, with lots of steps along the way. A pair of comfortable shoes is good enough, but that day the trail was wet and muddy from recent rains, so we wished we had brought along our hiking boots. Hermann and I had muddy shoes afterwards, but it was worth the hike, as you can see in the pictures. The trail follows a series of ten waterfalls, each of them different, so you won't be able to resist stopping. We got lucky. According to some people we met from New Jersey, falls were almost completely dry the previous year. This day they were awesome. It was a cold and gloomy day, but photographers, amateur or not, actually like overcast conditions like this. The autumn colors, although not at their peak, added to the stunning effect of the gorge and the waterfalls. Picture perfect, at least for us. The trail ends at the parking lot at the top of the falls, but why stop there? We wanted to see the source of the falls, so we followed the trail all the way to Lake Treman. We then turned around and went back down along the Rim Trail on the other side of the creek. You won't see much of the waterfalls on this side, so be sure to take your photos along the Gorge Trail. OTHER HIKING TRAILS TO EXPLORE IN FINGER LAKES REGION: HIKING AT TAUGHANNOCK FALLS STATE PARK WATKINS GLEN STATE PARK & VILLAGE OF MONTOUR FALLS

Can Banff National Park be explored in just four days? Definitely not! This is the first time that we visited Alberta. It was not a planned trip, just a short four days vacation to get away from routine. We didn't plan on hiking on this trip, either, just to visit some of the most popular sites, drive around and walk around towns. We expected the Canadian Rocky Mountains to be somewhat similar to the Colorado mountains. What we didn’t expect is how dramatic Canadian Rockies are. As our Geologist neighbor said, the Canadian Rockies are younger than their American counterparts and haven't experienced the "wear and tear" of time, or what we call weathering. COCHRANE To start our road trip, we first stayed the night in the town of Cochrane after arriving in Calgary. Reserving a GPS with a rental car makes driving to your destinations easier. We found that out traveling to Portugal and Spain. Hermann studies the maps though just in case. The town of Cochrane is the second largest town (not city) in Alberta, located at the base of the Big Hill in the Bow River Valley (intersected by Highway 1A and Highway 22). Dining in Cochrane is not a problem as there were several restaurants within walking distance of the hotel where we stayed. We decided on a light dinner, but as you can see (photos below) the meals were not exactly as light as we wanted, but were great. Have you tried pairing wine with tacos? Hermann did and was quite satisfied with it. The next morning started out chilly and overcast then turned into pouring rain as we drove to Canmore. The town is the ninth largest town in Alberta, located outside of Banff National Park, established in 1884 as a coal mining town. The name Canmore (named in honor of King Malcolm of Scotland) is derived from the Gaelic word, 'Ceann Mór', meaning "Big Head" referring to one's elevated stature or height. We decided to stay here since it was cheaper than staying in Banff, which is only a very short drive away. CANMORE Driving to Canmore from Cochrane took only about an hour, but it rained most of the way. When we arrived in town we had plenty enough time to explore. The check-in time at our hotel was not until late afternoon, but we were able to leave our car at the hotel's parking lot. By then the rain had stopped but it was still overcast and cold. Before we walked into town we put on our rain jackets - in addition to our fleece jackets, just in case. I put on my hat for sun protection and for extra warmth as well. We expected that it might be chilly, but not cold. At least we could layer our clothes and take some off when the sun came out and it got warmer. One friend said that when the weather is bad, tourists explore the shops and spend money. Indeed, what else can you do? For women it's a good excuse to shop. Canmore is a charming town with plenty of shops and restaurants. You won’t get hungry or thirsty or leave empty handed. Plenty of souvenirs to choose from. Impulse buying? Pretty easy to do if you don't watch your spending. EATING IN CANMORE Lunch was at a Japanese restaurant located on 8th (Main) Street. We usually try something authentically local when traveling, but seeing the bowls of ramen on the sign board decided it for us. It was just the kind of day that called for a hot meal to warm the belly and extremities. So what exactly are authentic Canadian foods and specialties? Poutine and maple syrup are two that I know of, but as much as I wanted to try Poutine (French fries and cheese curds drizzled with brown gravy), cheese does not agree with me. Besides, we wanted something to warm us up at that moment. So ramen it was! It was delicious, and the hot green tea gave us extra warmth as well. It was a great lunch, the staff was nice and friendly; it was just what the “doctor ordered” that day. A satisfying and comforting meal. It boosted our energy to explore more of the town, so we headed to the Bow Valley Park. WHAT TO SEE IN CANMORE The sun tried to peek out from behind the clouds on and off as we walked our way to the Bow Valley Park. Something we were hoping for since we didn’t want to waste our first day in Alberta indoors. Cloudy and cold is fine, we can take it. Rain? Not so much. Actually, we got lucky that it rained since it washed out the lingering smoke shrouding the town from the forest fires in British Columbia - we were told that visibility was really bad before we arrived. The clouds were still hiding the mountains as we reached the Bow River. We saw glimpses of them now and then as we followed the river trail, from the Bridge Road to Spur Line Trail. We stopped, admired the scenery and took photos along the way, doing what typical tourists do. When we arrived in Canmore earlier, the mountains were shrouded with clouds, which added mystery to the landscape, but as the sun appeared and most of the clouds moved away, it revealed incredible mountain views; rugged and dark, almost vertical all the way to the top. Canmore is known for the craggy mountain peaks surrounding it. The Ha Ling Peak and Three Sisters (a favorite name for some mountains it seems since we have some of the same name in Colorado as well) are probably the most photographed mountains in the area. The Ha Ling Peak, previously named “Chinaman’s Peak", is named in honor of the Chinese cook for the Canadian Pacific Railways who won a bet in reaching the summit in 1896. If you plan on hiking, the trail to Ha Ling Peak is said to be popular and it would be best to start early. The Three Sisters (originally called the "Three Nuns" due to heavy snowfall which caused them to resemble nuns in white veils) were named by George Dawson, head of the Geological Survey of Canada, in 1886. The three peaks are named Faith (Big Sister), Charity (Middle Sister) and Hope (Little Sister). They are also known as Frances, Olive and Grace, daughters of George Stewart, the first superintendent of Rocky Mountain National Park - now known as Banff National Park. Three Sisters is the highest mountain in Canmore. Climbing this mountain is said to be difficult - but not so for adventure and thrill seekers I would guess. The day was not wasted as it turned out. We got some good shots once the dreary weather moved out in the afternoon. We enjoyed walking the town and the loop trail. NEXT... Lake Louise, Vermilion Lakes, Bow Falls & town of Banff, BANFF NATIONAL PARK

Banff National Park is Canada’s first national park and the third national park in the world. The park, with 2,564 square miles, contains some of the world’s most magnificent mountains, as well as beautiful turquoise lakes, valleys, glaciers, forests, meadows and rivers, and abundant wildlife. Over three million visitors explore this park every year. I can understand why the Canadian Rockies have very dramatic mountains; massive, rugged, steep and sharp. Not quite as high as the mountains we see in Colorado, but equally spectacular. Driving to Banff National Park is just a few minutes drive from Canmore. We bought admission for two days, but it actually expires on the afternoon of the third day. We decided to go first to Lake Louise, driving there via the Bow Valley Parkway, where we stopped along the way to take pictures of the majestic mountains (and hopefully wildlife, which did not appear). Wherever we looked we saw these spectacular mountain landscapes and we had to stop. One of our friends thought we might not find Banff National Park interesting since we’ve seen mountains in Europe, New Zealand and of course Colorado. But one thing we know is that each country has different mountain landscapes, never the same, each an awe-inspiring experience. Nature is incredible, it never ceases to surprise us - experienced or not - by its hidden treasures. That's why we keep on traveling. LAKE LOUISE The weather was still “crisp” when we reached Lake Louise. The parking was full but we got lucky to find a parking spot nearby. It was still early but tourists are already there in force - as to be expected since this is one of the popular sites in the park. Lake Louise was originally known to the local Stoney-Nakoda people as Ho-run-num-nay, or the “Lake of Little Fishes.” Eventually, it was named Lake Louise in honor of the fourth daughter of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, Princess Louise Caroline Alberta, who was married to a British nobleman and fourth Governor General of Canada from 1878 to 1883. I can understand why this lake is so popular, it is very picturesque. It was cold outside but there were lots of people canoeing on the lake. The lake’s backdrop of snow-capped mountains (Mount Temple, Mount Whyte and Mount Niblock) and the turquoise water fed by the glacier above is stunning! To get away from the crowd we followed the trail alongside the lake. We passed the Chateau Lake Louise, a historic site, first built by the Canadian Pacific Railway at the end of the 19th century. Before this hotel became a world-renowned luxury hotel, it was originally built for summer getaways - but later in 1982 it became part of the Lake Louise ski resort for winter activities. The original structure consisted of a one-story log cabin with a central area which served as a dining room, office, bar, kitchen, and had two small bedrooms facing the lake. It was a popular destination for alpinists and pioneers who explored and mapped the mountains back then. After Lake Louise, we planned on going up to Moraine Lake, a glacial lake outside the village of Lake Louise. However we were told by a park representative that we have to be really early to be able to drive up there, or take a private shuttle bus and pay a hefty fee (there is no fee for taking the shuttle bus in National Parks that we have been to in the United States!). As one local said, parking at Moraine Lake is poorly managed and if you want to rent a canoe for an hour, it will cost you big money. Thinking about it, we probably should have gone up there late afternoon, then we might be able to drive up there. VERMILION LAKES We skipped the Moraine Lake and drove to the town of Banff instead. We stopped on the way at Vermilion Lakes, located outside of town. You can take photos from the viewpoint along highway.... but we drove down to the lake to get a closer look. The road along the lakes is part of the Rocky Mountain Legacy Trail. True enough, we saw bikers as we drove, so be mindful. There are three lakes here formed in the Bow River Valley. Locals say that sunset and sunrise here is spectacular and in winter time you might even get lucky enough to see the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) at night. Considering the area has lush marshland, elk, moose and bear can be seen here. We didn't see any (we didn't stay long enough) but we were satisfied enough with the pictures we took. Take time to read the interpretive panels about the history of the place - geology, wetland ecology and human activities. We took pictures of them to read later in order to save time. The wedge-shaped Mount Rundle (popular among climbers) is named in honor of Reverend Robert Rundle, a Methodist church missionary who worked with aboriginal peoples in the 1840's in what is now called West Alberta. Vermilion Lakes has an awesome landscape. The Sulphur Mountain and Mount Rundle in the background reflecting on the lakes' water made for a perfect day to take photos. We are sure glad we have digital cameras nowadays and not film. TOWN OF BANFF When in Banff you have to visit the "Castle in the Rockies" or Banff Springs Hotel, located in the heart of the Banff National Park. Even better, if you have the means, why not stay in the hotel. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site after all and worth bragging about if you stayed here. This impressive castle-like hotel (or what is called, Châteauesque type of architecture) was first built by the Canadian Pacific Railway and opened in 1888. This is one of William Cornelius Van Horne's (the general manager of the CPR) vision of building a succession of lavish resort hotels along the railway line as a magnet for tourism potential for the Canadian west. The hotel was named for the hometown of William Davidson, a Scottish-Canadian lumber merchant, shipbuilder and politician, who grew up near Banff, Scotland. So, if you believe in ghosts or you dabble in ghost hunting, this hotel is said to have a few - as any old hotel has. The saying goes that they are "the guests who checked-in but never checked-out". I don't think I want to meet any of them, even if we could afford to stay there. Eating in one of their restaurants is probably good enough, just to see the spectacular view of the valley from the deck. BOW FALLS Another popular destination in Banff is the Bow River Falls near the Banff Springs Hotel. The water came from the melt water of Bow Glacier. Going here is free as long as you have the Banff National Park admission ticket. Bow River Falls is wide and short, about nine meters at its highest point. Not the typical waterfalls flowing down from high up in the mountains. To the Cree Nation, it was known as manachaban sipi meaning, ‘the place from which bows are taken'. This waterfall has easy access, which means tour-bus friendly, but even so, you can get away from the crowd. The other thing you can do is either come early or late afternoon. We went there about mid-afternoon and it wasn't crowded. We were able to take our time, hang out a bit and just enjoy the scenery. THE TOWN CENTER Our last destination of the day was the resort town of Banff. It is a charming town, and typical of a popular tourist town it offers plenty of gift shops, bars and restaurants, galleries and museums. If you are looking for maple syrup and maple syrup delicacies, there is no shortage here. The town of Banff is the highest town in Canada, surrounded by towering rugged mountains such as Mount Rundle, Sulphur Mountain, Mount Norquay, and Cascade Mountain. These mountains dominate the town, which was built with the intention of it being a tourist town, oriented to take advantage of the view of Cascade Mountain. The town is small so you can get around just by walking. How long to explore it depends on how much time you want to spend checking the shops' merchandise. NEXT... BOW LAKE, PEYTO LAKE & LAKE MINNEWANKA PREVIOUS... CANMORE