New Zealand abounds with diverse natural features, a paradise for those seeking nature's wonders. You can never go wrong exploring either the North or the South Island, but if you are seeking glaciers, your best bet is to go to the South Island. There are some in the north as well, just not as easy to get to. There are several glaciers that you can visit here, weather permitting. We were lucky to see only one, since weather is very unpredictable in New Zealand. One day it was sunny and warm and the next day it was pouring, windy and cold. When we explored New Zealand, we "played it by ear" as the saying goes. THE GLACIER The glacier area is one of the main attractions on the West Coast of the South Island. The Westland/Taipoutini National Park is known as "Glacier Country." The mountains of the Southern Alps (Ka Tiritiri o te Moana in Māori), are among the fastest growing mountains in the world. Their location and height are perfect for glacier formation, especially because this is one of the wettest areas in the world, with enormous amounts of rain and snowfall in the higher elevations. These mountains are revered by the Māori people, the Ngai Tahu tribe, and their ancestors. The glaciers became popular when European surveyors and explorers spread the word of the attractions on the west coast. Sir William Fox, Prime Minister of New Zealand, visited and made a painting of the Franz Josef Glacier in 1872, and by the 1890's, the area was becoming so popular that the government began giving annual grants to hoteliers for constructing tracks and huts. Charlie Douglas, one of New Zealand’s great explorers, supervised the hotels' construction. The Graham family became the mainstay of early tourism, with two brothers guiding tourists up onto the ice and into the mountains. They contributed to the success of the town of Franz Josef Glacier, which provided accommodations, a post office, a gathering place and a first-aid center. TRIDENT CREEK FALLS From the parking lot to the Franz Josef glacier is not that far, about two miles each way, and an easy trail at that. It is one of the most accessible glaciers in the world. Not far from the beginning of the trail, you will find waterfalls cascading like ribbons down the side of the granite face of the cliffs. The Trident Creek Falls are one of many waterfalls in the Franz Josef Glacier valley. THE MORAINE Stop and look around! The glacier is not the only thing interesting in the area. The glaciers, when they retreat, leave behind moraines - debris consisting of rocks and gravel. The moraine at Franz Josef Glacier was formed approximately 12,000 years ago. You will probably notice the boulders on the valley floor, which were carried down by glacial ice. They are covered with lichen and moss, in bright orange or rust and many shades of green. As the ice receded, lichens and mosses appeared and then grasses and weeds, followed by shrubs and then trees. Lichens are a life-form comprised of part algae and part fungus, both living symbiotically and each contributing to the survival of the other. Lichens produce acids that corrode the rock surface, thus releasing nutrients. THE FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER Franz Josef Glacier was first explored in 1865 by a German explorer and geologist, Julius von Haast, who named it after the Austrian emperor Franz Joseph I. The name was officially altered to Franz Josef Glacier/Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere after the Ngai Tahu Claims Settlement Act of 1998. The face of the glacier is unfortunately very far above the valley floor. Before the glacier started to recede, it is believed to have extended all the way to the sea, some 10,000 to 15,000 years ago. Glaciers traditionally had a cyclic behavior of advance and retreat, depending on the conditions up on the snow field. But climate change over recent years has changed that, with retreat happening more rapidly than any intermediate advances. Franz Josef glacier was still advancing in 2008, but since then it has retreated rapidly. Both the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers recede up to 13 feet every day, which is uncommonly rapid compared to others (the Tasman Glacier on the eastern side of the great divide moves at only about two feet a day). If you are expecting that you will be able to at least touch the glacier, forget it. It is cordoned off, with the barrier line well away from its face. No one is allowed to go beyond the barriers for obvious reasons - the danger of falling rocks and chunks of ice. Hermann visited this glacier 15 years before, when the face of the glacier was still down on the flat valley floor and visitors could still walk up and almost touch it. Not this time unfortunately. You would have to take a guided ice walk or take a helicopter ride to to see the glacier up close and personal. We were here in the Spring of 2015, so I wonder if the glacier has retreated even more since then. We weren't able to see the Fox Glacier due to nasty weather the next day, so we have nothing to compare. A little disappointing, but that's how it is in traveling. I always say, expect the unexpected since you never know. Things don't always go exactly as planned. So, how many photos can you take of a glacier before they all look the same? We found that the moraine and surrounding terrain offered better photo opportunities than the glacier itself.

Queenstown is one of our favorite towns in New Zealand. I can understand why it is an international destination, and one of the busiest little towns in New Zealand. There are plenty of things to do here, especially for outdoor enthusiasts and adrenaline rush seekers (bungy jumping, ski and snowboarding, paragliding, jet-boating, white water rafting, skydiving, para-gliding, and many more). This town earned the title of “Adventure Capital of the World.” The town is surrounded by natural beauty - a vast lake, breathtaking and awe-inspiring mountains. While in Queenstown you can do a lot of easy touristy things such as riding the Skyline Gondola to Bob’s Peak. Although the view is incredibly fantastic up there, the crowd vying for space to take “selfies” will spoil it for you. But then of course taking the gondola is the best choice if you are not a hiker, or don't have the time. For hikers we discovered an even better view of Queenstown with almost no people - much fewer than at Bob’s Peak, by hiking to Queenstown Hill. Even better, you don't have to pay to see the view. This hike is short and easy, even casual hikers can do this, if you are willing. QUEENSTOWN HILL WALKWAY From Queenstown Hill you will get to see an amazing panoramic view of Queenstown if you are willing to hike the 2.5-mile (one way) uphill trail, or track, to the top. The Queenstown Hill was once called Te Tapu-nui which means “mountain of intense sacredness” - the mountain has much significance to the Māori. The trailhead is within walking distance from the center of town, but it's an uphill walk to get there. The Queenstown Hill Walkway trail is managed by the Queenstown Lakes District Council and parts of it traverse private land. Just past the beginning of the trail, there is a beautiful iron gate. Along the trail you will pass a big boulder with a metal plaque on top. Some words of wisdom were inscribed on it, a gentle way of telling people to take care of the trail and maintain its beauty for the next generation to enjoy. “This pathway leads to our future. With each step, we seek the guidance and wisdom of those who have gone before us; we walk with a sense of hope, that those who follow in our footsteps beyond the year 2000 can do so with the same sense of pride in, and protection for, this beautiful place.” Don’t hurry to reach the top, this is an interesting trail. There are some interpretative panels, each describing a brief history of the Wakatipu region, from the early Māori settlements to the intervening years after colonization by the English. There was a brief history of the early Māori’s expedition to find pounamu (greenstone), the moa (a now extinct giant bird even bigger than an ostrich) and other resources found in the area. There was also a brief history of the pastoralism after Europeans arrived, the discovery of gold and the arrival of tourism. It’s very informative - take time to read it. The canopy of forest shading the track eventually transitioned into an open field. Beside the track was a small pond occupied by a family of ducks. Past the pond - off the track to the left - was a sculpture called the “Basket of Dreams,” a dish-shaped spiral of steel reinforcing bars overlooking Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains. The plaque says the sculpture was erected to commemorate the millennium. Nearby was another sign about protecting the area’s natural heritage, and the threat from wilding trees (an exotic species introduced to the area to establish forestry). These trees unfortunately are overtaking tussock grasslands and invading beech forests. A group is working with the community, businesses and local government to eradicate these trees from the hills, to save native plants as well as insects and birds. The sign even encourages anyone who wishes to pull out any seedlings. Some hikers just do the loop, they turn around at the Basket of Dream's sculpture, but you will miss the best view on this trail if you do. Up on the top there was an amazing 360 degree view of Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding rugged mountains. The immensity of the lake and its deep blue color is quite incredible from up there. Th impressive Lake Wakatipu was carved by glaciers over hundreds of thousands of years. It is New Zealand’s longest lake, about 46 miles long, and the third largest with an area of 112 square miles. It is also one of the deepest lakes in the country. The lake played a major role in the settlement and development of the area, where early Māori and European explorers to the region used to access the many bays around its shores. The Queenstown Hill Walkway trail offers a vast, open view for such a short hike. You will see the peak of Ben Lomond (5,734 feet), named by an early shepherd, Duncan McAusland, after Ben Lomond in Scotland. You can hike to Ben Lomond, if you have the time. The seven-mile (round trip) track begins at the upper Skyline Gondola terminal at Bob's Peak. You can follow the route by starting near the Luge. Other prominent mountains nearby are Cecil Peak (5,931 feet), Double Cone (7,609 feet) and Bayonet Peaks (5,173 feet). NEXT... To find out more about other wonderful places we explored during our one month road trip in New Zealand.

Driving to Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park is an experience by itself. The gorgeous mountain landscapes are awe inspiring; even from afar you will be eager to see what lies ahead. These mountains look mysterious and impressive so it's no wonder they are sacred to the Maōri - even the melt-waters from the glaciers. Prior to the arrival of Europeans in New Zealand, there is some evidence that Māori also traveled here, moving on foot into the mountains. There are two different entry signs at Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park (see photos), one on each side of the road. So as not to be confused, South West New Zealand World Heritage Area encompasses Aoraki/Mount Cook, as well as Westland/Tai Poutini, Mount Aspiring/Tititea and Fiordland National Parks. It covers ten percent of New Zealand’s total land area. We arrived at the park with gorgeous weather, and with enough time to hike to the Tasman Glacier Viewpoint. We had to take advantage of it since out there in New Zealand you never know what the weather is gonna be like. One good thing about renting a van when we explored New Zealand is that we had everything we needed with us everywhere we went, so spur of the moment decisions were not a problem for us. Changing from street shoes to hiking boots is a breeze. - THE HIKE - At the end of the Tasman Valley Road is the parking area to the viewpoint. The hike is just about a half mile to the top, but we detoured to the Blue Lakes going back down which added another half mile, so about two miles hike return all together. Hiking to the Tasman Glacier Viewpoint is one of the easiest and most popular hikes in the park. It was a steep climb to the top but the alpine view was spectacular. Many well-built steps were placed along the trail (see photo), though I much prefer a natural incline so I can climb on my own pace and stride. I’m short, and the steps were not built for people with short legs, or should I say, “vertically challenged,” people (to be politically correct). Climbing up to the top of the moraine you can look either way and the view does not disappoint at all. It was a different scenery and environment from any other hiking adventures we ever had. We also found different plants along the trail that I hadn’t seen before. The plants here are found only in a moraine environment which is an accumulated pile of debris (rocks, etc.) carried by glaciers as they advance down the valley. These piles of debris were left behind at the end of the last Ice Age when glaciers retreated. In time, plants grow on these moraines, such as mat-forming plants, lichens, and moss. As the soil and nutrients built up, shrubs followed. This is one example of mother nature's ability to transform a barren land into a beautiful garden landscape. These moraine plants are adapted to the constantly changing environment and weather pattern in the alpine area. They thrive here. The viewpoint was not as crowded as we expected it to be, considering there was a stream of people going up and down the trail. Don't they stay and absorb the beauty of the place, I wonder? Though the mountains were partially hidden by clouds, it was still an impressive sight. The face of the glacier was far from the viewpoint, about four miles, and the whole top was covered with debris which camouflages its icy blue color. But the edge where it touched the milky-grey water of the lake was quite visible. To get up close and personal to the glacier you have to take a tour boat. But up at the viewpoint you will see a partial aerial view of the Tasman Lake. THE TASMAN GLACIER Tasman Glacier is the longest glacier in New Zealand, about 16 miles long. It is one among several glaciers that flow south and east towards the Mackenzie Basin from the Southern Alps. You wonder why the lake's water looks white and not blue. Its milky color is due to large amounts of “glacial flour” or ground up rock and gravel produced by glacial abrasion. When glaciers melt in spring and summer, the silty particles that are dumped into the lake remain suspended in the water, until the melt-water stops or the lake freezes over, when they settle to the bottom. The suspension which makes the water look cloudy is known as glacial milk. Tasman Lake was formed as the glacier receded as it melted continuously (melt-water created small ponds, which merged and created lakes in the park). By 2008 the lake was four miles long, 1.5 miles wide and 800 feet deep. Yes, that deep! It is believed that the glacier is now in a period of accelerated retreat and the terminus is not only melting but also calving which results in icebergs. It is predicted that the glacier will disappear eventually and the Tasman Lake will reach its maximum size in about 10 to 19 years? On our way down, we detoured to the Blue Lakes. Along the trail, a sign will point out the way for you. Before reaching the largest Blue Lake you will pass the two small one. The Blue Lakes look green today. They were named before the glacier started to recede, when turquoise glacial melt-water filtered through the moraine, constantly refreshing their water. After the glacier receded, the water bypassed the lakes, which were then replenished by warmer rainwater only, which allowed green algae to take over since the water was not being replaced regularly. The lakes support large numbers of native fish today. The trail continues on, but we stopped just above the last of the Blue Lakes. We don't know where the trail ends and we didn't have enough time that day to explore more. NOTE: If you want a little adventurous and longer day hike, you can hike the Hooker Valley Track. This is a beautiful trail with three swing bridges, awesome mountain landscapes and glaciers lakes. OTHER TRAILS TO EXPLORE IN AORAKI/MOUNT COOK NATIONAL PARK: SHORT HIKE/TRAMPING TO FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER TRAMPING THE HOOKER VALLEY TRACK

Our month long trip to New Zealand was spent mostly on the South Island (Te Waipounamu, in Māori). South Island is the larger of the two main islands, but far less populated than the North Island. It is bordered to the north by the Cook Strait, to the west by the Tasman Sea, and the South Pacific Ocean to the south and east. You cannot explore South Island without visiting at least few of the national parks, or even hike in one. One of the short hikes we did here is in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park (Te Wahi Pounamu – South West New Zealand World Heritage Area). The highest mountains and the longest glaciers can be found here in the South Island. Among the more than 140 peaks higher than 6,500 feet, 19 reach over 9,800 feet. THE PARK Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park was formally established in 1953 and received recognition as a World Heritage site in 1986. There is a small village in the park with a permanent population of just over a hundred people, but during the peak summer season there are many as 3,000 people per day, or an estimated 300,000 visitors each year. The famous New Zealand mountaineer, Sir Edmund Hillary, trained here on Aoraki/Mount Cook before climbing Mt. Everest which he did successfully in May 1953. HOOKER VALLEY TRACK/TRAIL - 7.5 miles Hiking, or tramping to Kiwis, in the Hooker Valley is one of the most popular hikes in this park. The hike is easy and short with a well-maintained track - but you don’t want to be straying outside of the trail, rapid changes in weather anytime of the year are common. This trail has been named one of the “best day walks in New Zealand”. The day of our hike started with some pretty ominous weather, which is not surprising in New Zealand. We don’t usually go hiking when it looks like the weather will turn out bad. But we only had one day to hike the Hooker Valley, and it’s not like we can return here anytime we want. We live 7,000 miles away. So, off we went tramping. The trail begins at the White Horse Hill camping ground - there is an ample car park at the end of the Hooker Valley Road. A short distance from the car park, the trail passes close to the Alpine Memorial. Here, you will see the names of the mountaineers who have died in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park over the years. While there are plenty of plaques there, I don't think it is a deterrent for climbers wanting to conquer the mountains in the area. We skipped the memorial on our way in and later went back to look it over on our way back. About 15 minutes from the beginning of the trail is the first overlook with a view of the Mueller Glacier and its lake. The glacier, though far from the viewpoint, appeared immense, and it is. Glaciers cover 40 percent of the national park and Mueller Glacier is eight miles long. It was named after German-Australian botanist and explorer Baron von Mueller. There are three swing bridges to pass on this trail and the first one is right by the Mueller Lake, crossing the Hooker river. The Mueller Lake is the remnant of a glacier that used to cover the valley floor. Above the lake is the peak of Mount Sefton covered with snow and cloud, but we could hear the groaning of the hidden glaciers as chunks fell down from above. It's "kinda" cool actually to hear them. The second swing bridge is the Hooker Bluff Bridge, located past the Mueller Lake. This bridge also crosses the Hooker River. Here, the track goes between old moraine ridges and humps. The vegetation changes to more open tussock and a wider valley floor. From here you will see Aoraki/Mt. Cook, New Zealand’s highest mountain. It used to be the world's 37th most prominent mountain standing, until the eastern face of its northern peak fell off in 1991. The mountain was renamed Aoraki/Mount Cook in 1998 following a settlement between the Crown and the local Māori tribe, Ngai Tahu. In honoring the original Māori name, (Aoraki, meaning "Cloud Piercer,") the mountain stands as an example of a conjoined name in New Zealand, where the Māori name is expressed first, signifying the mountain's national cultural importance. A third swing bridge leads to the source of the Hooker River, the Hooker Lake. During our hike, Mount Cook mostly stayed hidden, but whenever the sun came out we were ready to take pictures. Along the trail you will find Mount Cook Buttercups, (kōpukupuku in Maōri) or Mount Cook Lily, the largest buttercup in the world. The trail ends at the Hooker Lake which sits at the base of the Hooker Glacier. Hooker Lake was formed when the Hooker Glacier started to recede in the 1970's, and it is still receding. As the glacier rapidly melts and as the glacier recedes farther up the glacier bed, the lake is expected to expand even more. Although we would have loved to stay longer and enjoy the magnificent view of Aoraki/Mount Cook and its surrounding landscape, the chilly wind made it so unpleasant that we reluctantly hiked back down after our lunch. The sun came out just long enough for us to eat our sandwiches. But blue sky appeared as we head back down. We were glad to be able to hike this valley and see Aoraki/Mount Cook in its glory. Words cannot express all the beauty of this place. NOTE: Be prepared for the change of weather. Good hiking boots can take anything, from rough terrain to a rainy day. A rain jacket is not only for protection from the rain but it's extra protection from the chilly wind as well. OTHER HIKING TRAILS TO EXPLORE IN AORAKI/MOUNT COOK NATIONAL PARK: HIKING/TRAMPING TO TASMAN GLACIER POINT HIKING/TRAMPING TO FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER

There are fourteen national parks in New Zealand and the first of several national parks we visited there was Tongariro National Park. It is the largest park in the region, located at the southwestern end of the Taupō Volcanic Zone, in the North Island of New Zealand. This is one of the most visited national parks, and is most famous for the Alpine Crossing, widely known as the best one-day hike in New Zealand. It is the oldest national park in the country, established in 1887, and the fourth national park established anywhere in the world. This park is a World Heritage site with dual status for its natural and cultural significance - listed for scientific reasons in 1990, and for its cultural significance in 1993. There are three magnificent active volcanoes located in the center of the park - Mt. Tongariro, Mount Ruapehu (New Zealand's largest ski area and the highest mountain on the North Island) and Mt. Ngauruhoe (known as Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings films, also the most active volcano). These volcanoes are sacred to the Māori people and there are a number of religious sites within the park. We planned on hiking the Tongariro Alpine crossing even before we left on our trip to New Zealand. Although Tongariro is much lower than the mountains of Colorado, this is not an easy hike. So, we sort of did a little training, doing tougher hikes than we usually do. I'm sure glad we did since this was the most strenuous hike I ever did. WHAKAPAPA VILLAGE On the western side of Mount Ruapehu is Whakapapa Village, the gateway to Whakapapa ski filed, Tongariro National Park and other short walking tracks in the park It is strange to see a fancy hotel in the middle of nowhere, but the Chateau Tongariro (the only hotel in the Whakapapa Village), was built to encourage tourists to visit the national park. We stayed in the village but we did not stay in this hotel, staying instead in our rented camper, which was much cheaper, in one of the campsites in the village. Also from the village is a spectacular view of all three volcanoes. The hotel was established in 1929, but didn’t do well as a hotel. Later it was used as an asylum when an earthquake damaged a hospital in Wellington. Then it served as a recuperation center for wounded Air Force personnel during World War II. A private company acquired it in 1990 and enlarged it to a five-level building. TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING - 12 Miles one way There are two trailheads for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. One is in the Mangatepopo Valley, at the southwestern end of the track/trail, and the other at the Ketetahi car park. The hike is just over 12 miles and will take about eight hours to complete, probably less for some. Some take it only halfway, just to the Emerald Lakes and then back, but we went all the way. From Whakapapa Village to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing trailhead is about ten miles. Hermann arranged a ride for us from the Holiday Park at Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo trailhead. Also for the return trip back to the Holiday Park. Some people spend days waiting for a good weather to hike here. Some go home disappointed. Coming back is easy for the locals if they missed a chance, but we didn't have that option, we only had the one day. We were lucky we had chosen that day, when the sky was clear and sunny. Although the day started chilly, it got warm as soon as we started the hike. A little too warm actually since we like hiking when it's cool - even chilly is preferable. But we can't complain, mother nature gave us an opportunity and we took it. The trail (or track as the Kiwis call it) started on level terrain. The valley, which was carved out during the last ice age, was partially filled by lava flows from Mount Ngauruhoe. Then it was covered with bushes, tussock grasses, lichens and moss. The track was well maintained, with boardwalks in boggy areas to protect the plants and fragile terrain. Near the head of the Mangatepopo Valley is a short side trail that leads to the cold water Soda Springs. At this point, the hike starts to get serious as the track starts to climb to the saddle above the Mangatepopo Valley. This seemingly endless series of stairs is known as the Devil’s Staircase. The continuous uphill climb is broken up by wide stairs, which are tough for a short-legged person like me. At one viewpoint, we were lucky to see Mt. Taranaki (another volcanic sentinel, 85 miles away on the western horizon) without a cloud covering the top. In fact it's extremely rare to see it in its entirety, especially from so far away. After reaching the saddle, the trail levels out along the South Crater (a basin carved out by ancient glaciers), at the northern base of Mount Ngauruhoe. Then after an easy and level track, the trail goes uphill again to the rim of Red Crater, the highest point on this trail. But you will be rewarded as you reach the top. VIEW FROM RED CRATER The 360 degree view on top of Red Crater is really magnificent! To the south there's the magnificent Mount Ngauruhoe, also known as Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings film. To the northeast are the colorful Emerald Lakes and farther on the horizon is the Blue Lake. You still have ways to go from Red Crater, some people turn around from here. Look down at Red Crater’s unusual color. Its reddish and brownish color, with hues of black, chocolate brown, rusty red and yellow, was caused by the high - temperature oxidation of iron in the rock. EMERALD LAKES The Emerald Lakes are surrounded by a barren and gray landscape which makes their color appear so vibrant. They're like jewels! Despite the lakes being surrounded by fumaroles (openings in the earth's surface that emit steam and volcanic gases, such as sulfur dioxide and carbon dioxide), the water is cold and freezes over in winter. The water is acidic with a pH of around 3 to 5. The Emerald Lakes’ vibrant colors are due to sulfur leaching from the adjoining thermal areas. The Māori name for the lakes is Ngarotopounamu which means greenstone-hued lakes. To get down to the Emerald Lakes below, there is a steep descent. The hike down is very slippery due to the loose scoria. It's like stepping on pebbles, so you have to be careful. I'm glad we brought along our hiking sticks, they were a big help. While at the Emerald Lakes eating our lunch, our curiosity took over as we saw the steam vents. Of course we made a detour, just to see them up close - we were not the only ones. We didn't find any open steam vents but we sure could hear them, and the smell and the heat of the steam could be felt through the soles of our boots. This area is alive, no doubt about it. To go back to the main trail, we followed part of the Northern Circuit Trail. There's about half a mile of level ground before it goes uphill, then suddenly the Blue Lake is in front of you. This lake must be the bluest lake we have ever seen, it deserves the name. It didn't seem that far when viewing it from the ridge at the Red Crater, but it is, believe me. BLUE LAKE Blue Lake, which is about 55 feet deep, was formed in an old volcanic lava vent. Like the Emerald Lakes, the water is cold and acidic with a pH of around 5. Dissolved minerals are responsible for its distinctive blue color. Blue Lake’s Māori name is, Te Wai-whakaata-o-te-Rangihiroa which means Rangihiroa’s mirror. Te Rangihiroa was the son of a local chief, Pakaurangi, and is believed to have explored the Tongariro volcanoes about 1750 AD. This lake is tapu (sacred). Swimming or even eating around the lake is not permitted. You think from here it will be easier? The hardest part was yet to come. There's still a long way to go. There's a short easy climb to the edge of North Crater, then you will pass diverse native plants and an active volcanic hazard zone. The last leg of the track is a never ending downhill. It was the hardest part of the track, at least for me. There is no reprieve until you reach the forested area. You can rest a while at the Ketetahi Hut - some did. We just stopped briefly to use the loo then continued on. We were concerned about our pick up time at the end of the trail. On this trail, you will see Lake Rotoaira and Lake Taupō on the horizon. This view helped break the monotony of a long hike downhill. Looking down at the meandering trail (photo below), it looks like there is no end to it. Whew! Just keep moving, you will reach the end of the trail eventually. There's another hazard zone sign before the trail ends. It will make you move faster, painful feet or not, if you see this sign. Not that there was a risk at that time - they don't actually allow people to hike or camp in the area if there is a threat of volcanic activities. About a mile or so to go after the sign. By the time you reach the trailhead, you will be glad it's over. It was a sigh of relief for us, especially for me. We patted each other on the back for this accomplishment, but boy!..my toes felt like jello afterwards. But no blisters thankfully. While waiting for our ride, I was happy to see we were not the only ones hurting, some couldn't help lying down on top of their cars, exhausted from the ordeal. I would do it too if we had our car with us, but alas, we had to wait until we got back to our camper van before I could lie down. We didn't expect this hike to be easy, but I tell you, this is the toughest and most strenuous hike I ever did. It was worth it though, but will I do it again? No way! But I should say, we were glad we did this hike. It's a one-of-a-kind hiking experience for us. With so many stops along the way taking photos, it took us a little over eight hours, but we made it before the last shuttle pick up. NOTE: There is no drinking water on this trail. Even if you brought along filters with you, the water is too acidic to be drinkable. In Tongariro National Park, the weather can fall below freezing any time of the year. During our hike we were dressed as on a warm summer day, yet we carried plenty of additional clothing as we were advised to do. To find out more about the other wonderful places we explored during our one month road trip in New Zealand.

There are plenty of great hiking trails in Colorado. One of the trails that we hike regularly is the South Boulder Creek Trail in the James Peak Wilderness, covering an area of 17,000 acres (small compared to the Indian Peaks Wilderness) with 20 miles of trails. There are several lakes here that you can hike to such as Forest Lakes, Crater Lakes, Heart Lake and Rogers Pass Lake. All the lakes are located at the base of the Continental Divide and have spectacular views. In the summer, wildflowers abound here. Hikes are moderate, depending on each person's condition. The South Boulder Creek Trail covers a big area and has several side trails to some of these lakes. To hike in the James Peak Wilderness via East Portal Trailhead, follow the Tolland/East Portal Road from the town of Rollinsville - about 7.5 miles from Colorado Highway 119. It’s a well maintained gravel road following the river and train tracks – you will cross the track twice. You won’t miss the trailhead since its location is at the east end of the Moffat Tunnel, named after Colorado railroad pioneer David Moffat. This combined railroad and water tunnel was first opened in February 1928 and cuts under the Continental Divide. Trains pass by here regularly right beside the trailhead parking lot. Yes, this six-mile tunnel is that old and is still in service. After all, it is the mainline track from Denver to the west. - HIKING TRAILS - From the trailhead, the South Boulder Creek Trail connects to all the trails in the wilderness – there are signs at the junctions. You have choices, and you can make your hike shorter or longer but be mindful of the weather, afternoon thunderstorms are common especially in this area. Starting early is best as you don’t want to be above treeline when thunderstorms arrive. This is a wilderness area, which means it's common to see lots of backpackers along the trail, single or in groups of two or more. Although we haven't hiked to all the alpine lakes here, but the ones we have (Forest Lakes, Crater Lakes, Rogers Pass Lake and Heart Lake) are worth coming back to time and time again. The lakes we have not been to don't have maintained trails to them. FOREST LAKES (Upper Forest Lake Elevation 10,862 Feet) - 9 miles Hiking to Forest Lakes, you will see a sign at the junction pointing you to a trail to your right. This trail is about a four-mile hike from the trailhead to the upper lake. A short distance from the junction, there's a little stream to cross and then it's all uphill. But before you reach the Lower Forest Lake, you will cross a log bridge over Arapaho creek. We usually hike here in summer, when the wildflowers are at their peak. Come too early in the season and you might encounter snow - this area gets heavy snow in winter. It is probably safe to say that wildflowers are at their peak in early August, but it varies a bit each year. We are not always lucky, sometimes we are too late - or too early. We always end up with hundreds of photos when we hike here at the right time and when the wildflowers are at their peak. How can you not? The many varieties and colors are so amazing they enhance the beauty of the surrounding landscape. There are Columbine, Indian Paintbrush, Jacob's Ladder, Bluebells, Monkshood, Primrose, Elephant Heads and many others - different varieties at different elevations. But the explosion of colors is a little different each year, it depends on how much precipitation nature gave them – mother nature always has the upper hand. Before reaching the Upper Forest Lake, you will pass the Lower Forest Lake, around which you can make a detour, either on your way up or down. Fishing is allowed so bring that fishing pole if you have the time or if you are camping. But before continuing to the upper lake, just a short distance from the lower lake is a stream. This is another nice photo opportunity since it's just by the trail. You can stop here to rest and have a snack or just simply enjoy the soothing sound of the water. From the Lower Forest Lake to the Upper Forest Lake is just a little less than a mile. If you want to hike a loop around the lake, that will add some additional mileage, but we usually do that. NEXT... CRATER LAKES NOTE: If you are camping, you will have time to go hiking to the top of the Continental Divide, which separates the Pacific and Atlantic watersheds. There are many fine campsites in the James Peak Wilderness, but campfires are not allowed and group size is limited to only 12 - including pets.

Once you hike at Rocky Mountain National Park, you will keep coming back. Why not, there are plenty of trails to explore, beautiful lakes, waterfalls and incredible views to see. Plenty of choices to explore in the park for climbers, hikers and non-hikers alike - different trails and at different times of the year. The landscape views in the park change as the seasons change, and one of our favorite times to hike here is in Autumn when the aspen leaves turn gold. One moderately strenuous (can also be difficult depending on time of year) hike in Rocky Mountain National Park is the trail to Sky Pond. This is probably one of the best trails in the park. It begins at either Bear Lake Trailhead or at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead, but you must be early since most of the time both parking lots are full. You can get lucky at Bear Lake Trailhead at the end of Bear Lake Road, if you arrive before 8:00 a.m. If not, then you have to take the free shuttle bus at the park-n-ride. The trail to Sky Pond is one of many popular trails in the park - but not all hikers go all the way to the end of the trail, that includes us sometimes when we only go as far as Loch Vale. Sometimes we make it short, or longer, depending on our stamina and time of day. After all, if you are a day hiker you have to consider that when you hike in, you also have to hike out, doubling the length of the hike. This trail is easy at first until you reach the 30-foot high Alberta Falls, then as you go higher the trail gets steeper. Hiking to the Alberta Falls by itself is less than a mile from both trailheads, accessible for most visitors. So it’s not a surprise that this is one of the most popular waterfalls in the park. Probably the most photographed as well. ALBERTA FALLS Alberta Falls is named after Alberta Sprague, wife of Abner Sprague, who homesteaded in Moraine Park in 1874. Most people (non-hikers) only stop here - a wise choice when you don't know your capabilities and are not well equipped for a long hike. Hiking in Colorado is different, the elevation can catch you unawares. So, don't be surprised when people start to thin out beyond the waterfalls. The less foot traffic the better, right? As the trail goes higher the views start to open up. The aspen trees and the mountain landscape is gorgeous in autumn, as you can see. Still, it gets better as you hike up to Loch Vale. LOCH VALE Loch Vale is also known as The Loch, a Gaelic name for a lake or sea inlet. Some of the times we end our hike here, especially in Spring when the trail to Sky Pond is treacherous from snow and ice that has yet to melt. We just hang out here and go fish for a while. The Loch is one of the favorite lakes among hikers in the Rocky Mountain so you might find it a little crowded during peak season. Walk around the lake, you might find your own quiet spot if you plan on ending your hike here. Some people will just stop at the Loch while others will continue all the way to Sky Pond. Why not? Your effort will be greatly rewarded. One thing to keep in mind though is that there is a scramble up a steep rock face beside Timberline Falls. The rocks can be slick from the water spray so you need all fours to climb. You don’t want to hurry to get to the top, slipping off the rocks can be painful or worse. LAKE OF GLASS About a quarter-mile beyond Timberline Falls is the Lake of Glass. You were probably curious why it was called that name. You have to see it with your own eyes, the lake’s clear emerald surface is like glass, especially looking down at it from above. This lake has one of the most beautiful clear emerald colors you will see in lakes. You will see fish swimming just below the surface, enough to entice any anglers to try their luck. You finally reached the Lake of Glass, but don’t stop there, this is not the end of the trail yet. You hiked all the way here so you might as well finish it all the way to Sky Pond. Fortunately, there is no more scrambling up on rocks - that is, until you return back down to Timberline Falls. Just less than a quarter of a mile and you will reach Sky Pond. Believe me, you will be glad you made the extra effort to get there. But before Sky Pond look for the Lake of Glass Falls, located between the two lakes. It’s not as high as the other waterfalls along this trail, but it’s worth checking out as you can see on the photo. In fact, you can't miss it. Any photo opportunity is appreciated by anyone who brought cameras with them, and this is one of them. SKY POND Sky Pond (11,900 feet) is located at the end of the trail, at the base of several mountain peaks – The Sharsktooth, Taylor Peak, Powell Peak and East Glacier Knob. You can’t go any farther beyond the lake, unless you are an experienced climber. We are not so this is where our hike end. To get this far was an accomplishment by itself. One special feature of this lake is the incredible mountain backdrops. The most unique of all is the Cathedral Spires - the series of sharp peaks resembling a cathedral, hence the name. One of the peaks is called “The Sharkstooth” (12,630 feet) - resembling a shark’s tooth. You will see climbers up there if you have your binoculars. Now, this was another accomplishment under your belt. Bagging this hike in Rocky Mountain National Park is enough to brag about. Did I say once you hike in Rocky Mountain National Park you will keep coming back? See ya next time! NOTE: The trails are well marked, pointing you to the trails you want to take, but take along a map, it will be useful if you suddenly change your mind as to which trail to take. If unsure, it is best to ask fellow hikers. You probably can tell which ones are seasoned hikers from the way they look, dress and what they carry.

Living in Colorado, it’s easy for us to go to Rocky Mountain National Park. Located between the towns of Estes Park and Grand Lake, this park is one of the most visited national parks in the United States. It can get crowded in summer so we usually come here either in Spring when the weather is cooler and the beautiful wildflowers are in bloom, or in the Fall when the elk rut is in season and autumn fall colors are at their best. If you don’t have a choice but to go in summer, the park is big, there are plenty of hiking trails, camping sites and places that you can visit without walking far. Some of the lakes and waterfalls are just short walking distances. Just driving around the national park you will see some of the best mountain landscapes nature has to offer (photo below). You might get lucky to spot wild animals as well, such as mule deer, elk, big horn sheep, to name a few. Wildflowers are not shabby either. Plenty of photo opportunities for everyone - that's why we love coming here every year, oftentimes twice. But of course going higher is a different scenario if you want views unseen from the road. It requires hiking. Take note though, not all hiking trails offer the views you might be looking for. One of the positive aspects of the internet is that you can find anything on line. Depending on your hiking skill level, you will have many choices. BEAR LAKE TO FERN LAKE TRAILHEADS One of the moderately strenuous hikes in the Rocky Mountain National Park is the one-way trail from Bear Lake Trailhead at the end of Bear Lake Road to Fern Lake Trailhead at Moraine Park. You can begin your hike at either trailhead, but starting at Bear Lake is much easier since at Moraine park you will start at a much lower elevation. Either way, trail is very scenic. Since it is a one-way trail (well, it can be two-way if you want to hike back to your starting point, but why would you want to do that), you can either park one car at each trailhead (Bear Lake Trailhead or Fern Lake Trailhead at Moraine Park) or park one car at one end and then take the free shuttle bus at the other end back to your car. That's what we do. If Bear Lake parking lot is full (often by 8:00 a.m.) then you have to park at the Bear Lake Road park-and-ride, take the bus to Bear Lake, then make the hike, and finally take the shuttle bus back to Bear Lake. The shuttle bus at Moraine Park will take you back to the Park-and-Ride where you change to another shuttle which will take you back to your car. It is not complicated to do this but you have to be sure that you are aware of the shuttle schedule. Finish your hike too late and you will have a very long walk back. The Bear Lake to Fern Lake Trail Hike is a little over ten miles, including walking the half mile or so along Fern Lake Road to the shuttle parking area at Moraine Park. This hike is a little intimidating especially to those not used to hiking at high elevation. But it will be worth your effort since this trail is scenic. There are incredible views, beautiful lakes, waterfalls and streams along the way. Before reaching the summit you will pass by two lakes, the Two Rivers Lake and Lake Helene - we always take a detour to Lake Helene, it's just a short walk from the trail. Then at the high point of the hike, there’s a spectacular view of Notchtop Mountain (elevation 12,129 feet), one of the many sought-after mountains by climbers in Rocky Mountain National Park. The trail continues on to the other side of the ridge, but before rounding to the other side down to Odessa and Fern Lakes, take a short detour from the trail up to the lower ridge of Joe Mills Mountain, a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains awaits. Be sure to always carry a warm jacket with you for it can get windy and chilly up high. Also from the ridge look down and you will see Odessa Lake, as well as the incredible views. It is the best views on this trail I think, not including the lakes you will see on your way down. From the high point the trail is all downhill. It leads you to Odessa Lake which has an incredible view of what they call “The Little Matterhorn”, a smaller version of the famous mountain found in the Alps. Above the far end of Odessa Lake you will also see Notchtop Mountain. To reach Odessa Lake you have to back track a little from Fern Lake trail. You will cross a log bridge then just a short walk to the lake. The view will open up suddenly right in front of you. The view across the lake toward Flat Top Mountain, Notchtop Mountain, and the Little Matterhorn is one awesome landscape you don't want to miss. We never get tired of looking at it every time we hike here. It is a truly hidden gem in the park, one of many. This is a good spot to have lunch, or have a snack to boost your energy for the last leg of your hike. To truly enjoy the area is to camp here which is what climbers do when climbing Little Matterhorn and the Notchtop Mountain. There are two camp sites nearby, one is located north of Odessa Lake, and another one down by Fern Lake. To reach Fern Lake from Odessa Lake is about a one-mile hike. Fern Creek feeds these two lakes. The view from Fern Lake is a little less dramatic than that from Odessa Lake, but it is still beautiful. You will still see the mountain peaks from here, but not as grand a view. But wait! This is not the end of the trail, there's still more to see ahead and a few more miles to hike. Near Fern Lake, you'll pass the Fern Lake Patrol Cabin, a historic cabin built in 1925, and used as a ranger station until 1949. After Fern Lake, about 1.2 miles, look out for the 60-foot Fern Waterfalls. For the last leg of the hike, the same Fern Lake Trail will take you down all the way to the trailhead, just about 3.5 miles. But in order to take the shuttle bus back to where you left your car (Bear Lake or Bear Lake road park-and-ride), you have to walk another half mile or so to the shuttle parking lot at Moraine Park. By then you wish you had a car waiting for you at the trailhead... Wheh!... You did it! Now, back at your car, you can pat yourself on the back for this accomplishment. You now deserve some ice cream, or beer, in the charming town of Estes Park. This town is one of our favorites to explore after hiking, plenty of gift shops and restaurants, craft beers and local wines. NOTE: All trails in the park are well marked, pointing out the different hiking routes you may want to take. It’s wise to have a map with you even if you know the trails - you can easily get lost. Hermann has a GPS with him all the time, in addition to a map. Whether the hike is easy or strenuous, you have to remember to dress in layers. Weather can change anytime in the mountains, especially up high, so we bring along rain jackets as well as fleece jackets. Afternoon thunderstorms are common. Bring plenty of water - Colorado has a dry climate and you can easily get dehydrated. Also bring some snacks or lunch to keep you energized. Good, sturdy footwear, if not hiking boots, is a wise choice. We’ve seen hikers wearing flip flops, believe it or not. There are plenty of ankle breakers on the trail, so wearing hiking boots is good protection. A lot of people do "shortcutting"; it contributes to soil erosion, so be mindful. Don't feed the wildlife, especially the chipmunks; they might be cute but they can get aggressive as well. They will steal your nuts or other snacks if you forget to close your backpack. It happened to Hermann one time.

We only had two days to explore Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park in Scotland. We couldn’t do much in such a limited time but we wanted to do a little hiking (to Scots it's called "hillwalking"), and afterwards take a cruise on Loch Katrine in a steamship - a very touristy thing to do, but we love cruising on a historic steamship so we take advantage if the opportunity presents itself. Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park is one of the two national parks in Scotland (Cairngorms is the other, which was established in 2003). Although The Trossachs was a popular leisure destination even years ago, it was only given national park status in 2002. In the United Kingdom, it is the second largest national park covering 720 square miles. Plenty of outdoor activities and very tempting to explore more of the area, but we had to stick to our plans. HIKING BEN A'AN There are many hiking trails in the park, but alas, we only had one day and a short hike was what we wanted. The Ben A’an trail with spectacular views from on top fit the bill. It was a chilly day but partly sunny, ideal for hiking, but the blowing wind gave us second thoughts at first. We can take the cold - but the wind? That was something we had to simply accept - or call off the hike. We were thankful it was not raining that day, otherwise we would have had to skip it. The name "Ben A’an" may have originally been called Am Binnean which means "the pinnacle" or "the small pointed peak" in Gaelic. It's a well-deserved name as you can see from the photos. The pointed peak looks like a mountain, but to the locals it is a small hill - the Scots are tough, I might say. But don’t get intimidated - it is actually an easy hike, probably due to its low elevation which is around 1,512 feet at the summit. But how easy it is, or not, depends on a person’s physical condition. The trail has some steep sections starting at the foot of the hill. No warming up! But then it gets easy until you reach the last ascend to the top, which is also very steep. A little scrambling up, but you will be rewarded at the end. The spectacular view is well worth it despite the blowing wind at the top. It overlooks Loch Katrine, Loch Achray and Ben Venue, a higher peak on the other side of the valley. But goodness! It seemed the wind would blow you away to "kingdom come", literally. We wanted to stay longer at the summit so we could enjoy the view for a while, but the unrelenting wind was unbearable! You will notice in some areas where trees had been cut down. We thought it was a logging site but found out later that it is a deforestation area with the intention of replacing non-native trees with native trees. The trail is 4.5 miles return, or round-trip, so if it’s not enough for you there are other trails in the area that you can combine it with, all in one day. NOTE: There is a small car park a little way down across from the Tigh Mor Trossachs hotel. A fee is required to park here but the machine was not working, so free parking for everyone that day. For those who like to combine climbing Ben A’an with other hills or mountains in the area; there’s a trail to Ben Venue and Ben Ledi, the highest hill in the Trossachs. I bet the views are spectacular as well. NEXT... Loch Katrine & Balloch Castle Country Park

Ireland’s long and rich history dates back to around 6000 B.C., followed by the Gaelic and Medieval era, the Viking invasion and the Anglo-Norman conquest. These various human settlements and inhabitants left behind significant and rich history in the country. Among the most interesting are the earliest inhabitants of the island and the artifacts they left behind. In the unique landscape of the Burren Region, in County Clare, evidence of these early inhabitants can be found everywhere. Stone-built monuments abound, some older than the Egyptian pyramids. Of the about 6,000 national monuments (dolmens, wedge tombs, stone forts/cahers) in the country, the vast majority are located in this region. We visited two of these iconic monuments. We went first to the site of the Poulnabrone Dolmen. This is the second most visited site in the Burren (Cliffs of Moher is the first), and most widely photographed of all the Dolmens in Ireland. There is no entry fee to enter (to our surprise) and it was not teeming with tourist as we expected. Probably due to the weather that day which was windy, foggy and cold. We only found a small group just about to leave and a vendor selling beautiful Celtic jewelries (yeah, I noticed). He was bundled up thickly like an Eskimo. One tough guy. WEDGE TOMB – Poulnabrone It is said that the highest concentration of wedge tombs (built during the early part of the Bronze Age) in Ireland are found in the Burren uplands. There are over ninety megalithic tombs known to survive in the area and one of the most iconic is the Poulnabrone Dolmen, located on the highest point of the region. The tomb is standing by itself in the middle of karst landscape, built on limestone pavement surrounded by a low mound of rocks (a cairn). Poulnabrone is classified as a portal tomb which features two large portal stones standing on either side of an entrance with a massive slab capstone. The capstone weighs several tons, imagine how they were able to put it on top? The mystery of how ancient people built their structures back then. It never seizes to amaze us. To think that this dolmen, the oldest dated megalithic monument in Ireland is still standing is incredible. It was indicated that this tomb was used as a burial site between 3800 and 3200 B.C. Human remains (at least 33 individuals) from Neolithic or Stone Age buried under the monument were found here in 1985. None of the remains were intact, indicating that they were buried elsewhere at the time of death and then their bones were later transferred to the portal tomb as their last resting place. Personal items which were buried with the dead were also found, such as a polished stone axe, a bone pendant, quartz crystals, weapons, and pottery. Just outside the entrance, a newborn baby was also found, dated fromthe Bronze Age, around 1700 B.C. This dolmen was not only used for burial; it was suggested that the tomb was also a center for ceremony and ritual, well into the Celtic period. CAHERCONEL Caherconnel is located near Poulnabrone; so it's easy to visit the two sites without going out of your way. There is a fee to enter here, which includes a pamphlet and a short film show about the history of the site and nearby ancient sites. You must watch the film since it is a good introduction to what these sites are all about, a little glimpse of the life of the early inhabitants of the area. STONE FORT - Caherconnell Cashel A caher is a ring-fort or an enclosed farmstead. Caherconnell was settled by someone called Connell, a wealthy high status ruler, hence the name. This settlement is a well-preserved medieval stone fort, located in the heart of the Burren Region. It was a small landholding built out of limestone, of which there is plenty in the area, in the 10th century A.D. However, the evidence of earlier inhabitants found in Caherconnell indicates that this fort was previously settled during the neolithic or bronze age, then later was rebuilt and used until 1200 A.D. It was also suggested that the entrance to the fort may have been re-built in the 15th or 16th century, which means this fort was inhabited up to the late medieval period. Caherconnell was built of only dry stones, sloping Slightly toward the outside for stability and protection from rain run-off. Inside is evidence of the settler’s life; structures, burial mounds (containing a woman, a toddler and a baby) dated from the 6th or 7th century, a fire pit dated from the 7th century and other additions built by later occupants. Before flying off to Scotland, we drove to Kinvarra in County Galway to visit the Dunguaire Castle. This castle is the most photographed castle in Ireland. We had to check it out if it is indeed as picturesque as they say.

Ireland is known as the "Emerald Isle" due to its green landscape, but not everything is green in the island. In the Burren (in Irish, Boireann, meaning, "a rocky place"), a region in northwestern County Clare, you will discover a much different and unique landscape. But first, we went to see the Cliffs of Moher, also in the Burren Region, but on the coast. This site is one of the most popular destinations among tourists in Ireland. I can understand why. CLIFFS OF MOHER The sea cliffs called the Cliffs of Moher are located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region. They stretch for about 8.6 miles (14 kilometers) and rise up to a maximum height of about 700 feet above the sea just north of O'Brien's Tower (a round stone tower near the midpoint of the cliffs built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O'Brien). It is believed that the cliffs are over 320 million years old, built up on the shore over time from sediments carried by ancient rivers. Walking along the sea cliffs is not for the faint of heart. If you are afraid of heights, this is probably not for you. Although there are barriers, the height of the cliffs and the strong wind can be scary, so stay out of the edge. When you reach the cliffs from the parking area, you will have a choice of following the cliff-side path in either direction. We went a short distance both ways to see the incredible views, which are something to behold. I wish we had more time to explore the whole trail. The Cliffs of Moher are not only about the views - this is a special protected area (SPA) for seabirds. Here, you will find the largest colony of nesting seabirds on mainland Ireland. It is home to over 30,000 pairs, with significant numbers of Guillemots and Razorbill, as well as, Puffins, Kittiwakes, Fulmars, Peregrine Falcons and Choughs. The Cliffs of Moher are a bird lover's paradise. Boat Ride (Doolin Harbor) After walking the cliffs, why not take a boat ride below for a closer look? Why not indeed. The chilly and windy morning turned into a beautiful day. We started early so we had time to explore the cliffs from below. The nearest pier, or harbor, is just past the village of Doolin (a village noted for its traditional Irish music). This harbor not only services ferries to the base of the cliffs, but also is the gateway to the Aran Islands, which are known for their ancient sites. It was a short cruise, about an hour long, but exhilarating and worth your time and money. Be prepared to get splashed by the ocean spray. Wear a rain jacket if you must, it will protect you from the chilly wind if not the water spray. Either walking the cliffs or viewing them from the sea, it was an awesome experience. We are glad we did both. We were lucky enough to have chosen the right day; the next day the weather was not as nice. BURREN NATIONAL PARK After the Cliffs of Moher, we had the rest of the afternoon to explore other sights in the Burren Region. Driving towards the Burren National Park, we stopped at the Village of Kilfenora for some tea, cappuccino and cakes. The Kilfenora Visitor Center serves good cakes and drinks. While there, we visited the Kilfenora Cathedral and its High Crosses. KILFENORA CATHEDRAL Kilfenora (In Irish, Cill Fhionnúrach, meaning, “Church of the Fertile Hillside” or “Church of the White Brow”) is known as the "City of the Crosses”. This village boasts of having one of the greatest concentrations of high crosses in Ireland. Some can be found inside the Kilfenora Cathedral, conveniently located right behind the Burren Center. Kilfenora Cathederal was built in 1189 on the site of St. Fachtna’s monastery which was burned in 1055. Although partially in ruins, part of the cathedral is still used for worship by the Protestant parish of the village. Besides the High Crosses, you will find some extraordinary carved stone window frames and effigies here. The High Crosses, example below, can be found in an area of the cathedral that has been roofed over to protect them. HIKING/WALKING IN THE BURREN NATIONAL PARK Here in the Burren, the area is dominated by “glaciokarst” (eroded soluble rocks - limestone, dolomite, gypsum), one of the finest examples of this kind of formation in the world. This unique landscape was formed when glaciers eroded the top layers of mudstone, exposing the limestone underneath. This limestone was dissolved by rain water over time, thereby creating cracks and fissures, underground cave systems, terraced mountains and limestone pavements. It was also suggested that early settlers contributed to exposing the underlying limestone by cutting down the forests in the area, hence resulting in the erosion of the mudstone. The southeastern corner of the Burren landscape is within the Burren National Park, the smallest of the six national parks in Ireland. Just about 3,700 acres (1500 hectares). There are five marked walking trails in the park: White (a one-mile Nature Trail), Orange (Knockaunroe Turlough), Green (the four-mile out-and-back Mullaghmore trail), Blue (the 4.7 mile Mullaghmore loop trail), Red (a 3.7 mile Mullaghmore Traverse). The walks vary from a short thirty-minute loop walk to a three-hour walk. Each trail is signposted with color-coded markers. We didn't have a whole day to explore so we followed the Nature Trail (White Arrow Route), a less than a one-mile moderate walk. It takes only about 40 mins. Although short, it was a different hiking or walking experience for us. The trail has various features such as karst landscape, which can be uneven and steep in places, as well as a little woodland and some open meadows. It’s good to have proper hiking boots when exploring this area as the terrain can be sharp and rough. The landscape seems barren, but wait until you explore the area and you will find a lot of interesting things. The Burren supports many living things - diverse plants and animals such as deer, insects and birds. The landscape is sometimes referred to as "fertile rock" due to the area's diverse flora and fauna. We didn't expect to see wildlife, other than birds, but we were hoping to see a lot more wildflowers than what we found along the trail (example below). I guess it was too early in spring to see much when we were there. Wildflowers in the Burren NOTE: There is no fee to park at the trailhead or to enter the national park. All guided walks are free as well, but booking is required. Nature formed the landscape in the Burren and humans help shape it to what it is today. Evidence of early inhabitants in the Burren hills can be found everywhere. Stone-built monuments abound, some older than the Egyptian pyramids. The next day, we explored a couple of these monuments - Caherconnel Stone Fort and the megalithic Poulnabrone Portal tomb.

On our road trip in Ireland we either stayed one night or two nights in some places, depending on what we wanted to see in the area. In Killarney, a town in County Kerry, we stayed two nights. There is so much to see in the area and the town of Killarney is a good base from which to explore the Ring of Beara, Ring of Kerry, Skellig Ring, Valencia Island and Dingle Peninsula. Killarney (in Irish Cill Airne means "church of sloes"), is the gateway to Killarney National Park. From here, we explored some of the most beautiful sights in and around the area, including Muckross Abbey, Muckross House & Garden, Torc Waterfall and Ross Castle, located all within the park. Killarney National Park is located at the foot of Ireland's highest mountain range, the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (Na Cruacha Dubha means "The Black Stacks"). The park was designated as a Biosphere Reserve in 1981 by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, in short, UNESCO. This park is Ireland’s oldest National Park. It was created in 1932 when Arthur Vincent (a British politician and barrister), together with his parents-in-law (William Bowers Bourn II and Agnes Moody), donated Muckross House & Estate to the Irish State. Exploring the National Park We started at the ruins of the Muckross Abbey (entry is free). There is a small parking area a short walking distance to the Abbey (along N71 road), but if you can’t find a spot there’s a big parking space at Muckross House. You just have to walk a little farther to the abbey, which is not bad since it is a beautiful path surrounded by trees. Taking the path by the lake going back to Muckross House is even better, you won’t be able to resist stopping and absorbing the beauty of the lake, hear the birds sing and enjoy the pretty flowers along the way. MUCKROSS ABBEY Muckross Abbey is located near the shores of Lough Leane, partly hidden within the dense forest of the park. The Abbey was first built as a Franciscan Friary of Irrelagh. Dόnal MacCarthy founded the abbey in 1448, but Franciscan patronage had long run in the MacCarthy family and it was suggested that Dόnal’s great grandfather, Cormac MacCarthy Mór, might have originally founded Muckross Friary in 1340. It was also believed that the first monastery was built here by Saint Fionan sometime in the 6th century. The ruins of the abbey are well preserved and many of its architectural features and details are still visible such as those in the pictures below. This friary suffered a harsh past - it was vandalized and reconstructed many times. On one such occasion, in 1589, Father Donagh O'Muirthile and his companions hid the church’s valuables on one of the lake’s small islands (the friary is also known to have a miraculous statue of the Virgin Mary). Their bravery ended in persecution by the soldiers of Queen Elizabeth I. But the friary’s ending happened after it was burned by Oliver Cromwell's forces in 1652. In the middle of the cloister is an ancient yew tree, said to be as old as the Abbey (or even older), sturdy and still standing, surviving the test of time. Imagine if this tree could talk. What secrets does it hold? At the back of Muckross Abbey was the burial place of local chieftains, local poets and many Gaelic families. The cemetery is still in use today. MUCKROSS HOUSE Muckross House (an entry fee is required) is the main attraction of the national park. It remained closed for over 30 years after the estate was donated to the state. A group of concerned local residents got together, formed a board of trustees and proposed the house to be open to the public. Before the Vincent family, the estate was first owned by Henry Arthur Herbert, an Anglo-Irish politician and his wife Mary Balfour, a British artist. The house was built over a period of years (1839 to 1843), but further improvement was carried out before Queen Victoria’s visit in the 1850’s. It was said that these improvements contributed to the financial difficulties of the Herbert family. They sold the house to Arthur Guinness (of the Guinness family), in 1899. He didn’t live in the house but rented it out as a hunting lodge for the wealthy. He later sold it to William Bowers Bourn, a wealthy mining magnate from California in 1910. When Bourn’s daughter Maud married Arthur Vincent, they gave Muckross House as a wedding present. Further improvements to the house were made including the Sunken Garden and landscaping. Unfortunately, Maud died of Pneumonia in 1929. Arthur Vincent and their children lived in the house for three years before the estate was donated to the State, as a memorial to Vincent's late wife and the Bourns' daughter, Maud Bourn Vincent. TORC WATERFALL We can’t possibly be in the National Park and not do at least a short hike (or walk). From Muckross House, we followed the 1.6 mile trail to Torc Waterfall (again, if you don’t want to walk far there is a parking area along N71 road, just a few minutes walk to the waterfall). From the waterfall there are various loop trails (Blue, Yellow and Red), your choice depends on your stamina and time…or the weather. Red Trail leads to Cardiac Hill, also called Huntsman's Hill or the Cardiac Steps. Sounds intimidating doesn’t it? The steep steps to the viewpoint are worth your effort if you have the stamina. We have the stamina but did not have the time. We wanted to visit Ross Castle before we drove to Annascaul in Dingle. Behind the Legend of Torc Waterfalls As we all know, Ireland is associated with many legends and myths. Here is a short version of the Torc waterfall's legend. According to the story, there was a poor local farmer who keep finding his cow or sheep dead in the morning. One night, as he walked the field, he found a man standing near him. As the farmer began to talk, the stranger suddenly transformed into a wolf, and admitted he killed the sheep and offered the farmer gold stashed away in his cave. Could you trust a wolf? The farmer did, and was then led to a cave (where the waterfall is today). He was fed and showed the door to the gold. There was a catch though. The farmer would be given more gold and continue to prosper as long as he keeps the secret for seven years. The farmer, as promised, kept his secret. That is until his curious wife, who pestered him as to where his fortune is coming from, followed him one day to the enchanted man’s cave. What's a husband to do? The farmer chose to tell the wife. When the enchanted man's secret was revealed, he suddenly appeared and roared “We’re done for!” and burst into flames. He disappeared onto the top of Mangerton Mountain and plunged into the lake (the Devil’s Punchbowl lake). There the water burst a hole through the side creating the waterfall and hiding the cave and its gold. The farmer became even poorer afterwards. There are lessons to be learned from this story. Don't pester the husband, just spend his money, ha ha. In reality, the 20 meters high waterfall is formed by the Owengarriff River as it drains from the Devil's Punchbowl lough, high above Mangerton Mountain. ROSS CASTLE We drove following the Ross Road to Ross Castle after hiking back from Torc Waterfall. The grounds are free but a fee is required to tour the castle. Built in the late 15th century, a typical example of a stronghold during the Middle Ages, Ross Castle was originally owned by an Irish Chieftain, O’Donoghue Mόr (Ross). It sits on Ross Island at the edge of Lough Leane (the largest of the three lakes in Killarney National Park), overlooking Inisfallen Island, home to a 7th century monastery. Ross Castle’s ownership was contested throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, but it eventually came into the hands of Sir Valentine Browne (ancestor of the Earls of Kenmare), who held it until 1956. In the late 1950's, John McShain (a famous American builder) took over the land. In 1970, John and his wife Mary donated the castle to the Irish State . Ross Castle is reputed to be one of the last strongholds to hold out against Cromwell’s forces in 1650’s. It was said that, "Ross may all assault disdain, Till on Lough Lein strange ship shall sail". This prophecy came to fruition during the Irish Confederate Wars. The castle was eventually taken by General Ludlow in 1652, who attacked the castle by water. The castle became a military barracks until the early 19th century. NOTE: If you have time, you can visit Inisfallen Island by boat from Ross Castle. On the island are the ruins of a settlement/monastery founded by St. Finian the Leper in 640. Also, there are Jaunting Cars, horse drawn carriages, available if you don't want to explore the national park on foot.