Hiking in Kaua'i is very much different from hiking in Colorado, California or other states in the United States. The differences in elevation and terrain, along with climate and landscape, set it apart from other places where we have hiked. Here it is all about the beautiful panoramic views of the coastline. Ninety percent of Kauai is not accessible by road and since we were exploring, the best way is to see the whole coast of the island (besides taking the Na Pali Cruise), is to do some hiking. Kauai is the oldest among Hawaii's main islands and the fourth largest. There are hundreds of trails to hike here. We went on two major trails - the Awa' Awapuhi Trail in Koke’e State Park and the Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali Coast State Park. Both have beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean and of the island's coastline. KALALAU TRAIL (Na Pali Coast State Park) – 11 miles each way (4 miles round trip from Ke’e Beach to Hanakapi’ai Beach) To get to Kalalau trail, drive all the way to the end of Kuhio Highway (State Road 560) - you will pass Limahuli Garden and Preserve. At the end of the road is the Kalalau trailhead, at Ke’e Beach. Take note though, parking has changed since we were here in 2007 and advance reservations are now required for all vehicles. This trail ranges from moderate to strenuous, depending on how far you want to go and how experienced you are in hiking. Taking the whole 11-mile trail will require camping at some point, but you can make a day hike and see great views within two miles (four miles round trip). Nothing boring on this hike, the trail mostly hugs the Na Pali Coast with wonderful ocean views and lush vegetation. You will even find blooming wild orchids along the trail such as this one. The Kalalau trail is the original trail used by the Hawaiians who lived in the valleys along the Na Pali Coast, the only land access to the coast. This is one of the most challenging trails in Kauai, but it is truly a beautiful trail and the best way to see the stunning views of the Na Pali Coast from land. We did not take the whole 11-mile trail. We hiked as far as the Hanakapi’ai Beach. This is a small beach along the Na Pali Coast, but extremely dangerous to go in the water - the currents here have claimed many lives. This is a popular beach even though there is no road access. In summer this beach will probably be crowded, but we came here in spring so we had the place almost to ourselves. Is the warning sign still there I wonder? And how many more lives were lost on this beach since we were there? The beach looks calm and inviting, no wonder people can't resist to go for a dip and refresh themselves after a two mile hike. But we heeded the warning. Kauai is not exactly lacking in beaches, is it? The trail gets challenging beyond this beach and is only recommended for experienced hikers. Hermann is but not me, I was a novice hiker at that time. To reach Hanakapi'ai Falls would take another two miles of challenging terrain, inland, from Hanakapi'ai beach. For those wanting to hike beyond Hanakapi’ai Valley, permits are required for both day hikers and campers. For day hikers, going beyond Hanakoa is not recommended, from this point is another five miles to Kalalau Beach, the end of the trail. AWA’AWAPUHI TRAIL (Koke’e State Park) – 6.5 miles round-trip Kōkeʻe State Park is located in northwestern part of Kauai, north of Waimea Canyon. The trailhead is on the west side of Kokee Road (State Road 550), heading north. Near the end of this road is the Kalalau Viewpoint. The park, which is 3,200 to 4,200 feet above sea level, offers about 45 miles of hiking trails. We hiked only one of these trails Awa'Awapuhi trail has an easy trek for about a mile from the trailhead, then its downhill all the way. The trail starts at 4,120 feet and down at 2,500 feet. So, even for experienced hikers, the elevation gain going back up will make a big difference in how strenuous it will be. You have to consider the heat and humidity as well - it will definitely get you if you are not used to it. Hiking here you will be in the forest before it opens up to reveal a stunning view. The park is covered with forest. There are rich varieties of native plant species thriving in this area, with varieties of bushes with colorful blooms. You will also hear the birds chirping as you hike. Eventually the dense forest will open up and you will have an unobstructed view of the Awa'awapuhi valley below, and the Pacific Ocean. Now that the fun part of the hike was over, and you enjoyed and absorbed the stunning beauty of the cliffs, here comes the hard part of the hike. This is rated as a difficult hike due to uphill climb going back. You won’t notice it while hiking down but you will as you hike back to the top. Make sure you bring plenty of water and enough snacks to keep you going. NOTE: We did these hikes almost thirteen years ago in spring, so things might have changed since then. Bring plenty of water and wear proper shoes, trails can be slippery when wet.

There are twenty four active volcanoes in the Philippines and Taal Volcano is one of the most active. Although small, it is the most dangerous volcano in the Philippines. Because it is so close to major populated areas, it is extensively monitored and studied by the Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology (PHILVOCS). Taal Volcano is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire where much of the world’s earthquakes and volcanic eruptions occur. Located on the island of Luzon in the province of Batangas, it is about 30 miles south of Manila as the crow flies. Viewed from the Tagaytay Ridge, in the province of Cavite, it is one of the most picturesque views in the Philippines. The Peoples Park in the Sky, originally known as Palace in the Sky, is one spot where you can see beautiful panoramic view of Taal Volcano and its surrounding landscapes. That is, if the sky sky is clear. TALISAY If you are in Tagaytay and have more time to explore, you can get close and personal with the lake and volcano by following a meandering road from Tagaytay Rotunda down to Talisay. The town of Talisay is a municipality of Batangas Province and occupies the northern shore of the lake. The meandering Tagaytay-Talisay Road goes all the way down to the lake, a narrow and steep road so careful driving is a must. TAAL LAKE (CALDERA) The Taal Lake, once called Bombón Lake, encompassing close to 150 square miles, is a large crater formed by the original prehistoric volcanic eruption between 500,000 and 100,000 years ago. Since the area has been occupied, some subsequent eruptions buried some lakeside towns which can be seen under the lake's waters. The lake, which is 103 square miles and about 9 feet above sea level, was once connected to the sea, at the Balayan Bay. But after several eruptions in the 18th century, the Pansipit River is the only outlet from the lake. The Pansipit River, running southwest of the lake, used to be navigable by ship, but after more eruptions, the river was blocked by volcanic material and the level of the lake rose. Several centuries of precipitation diluted the lake's saline water into fresh water; endemic species have evolved and adapted in the lake such as the "tawilis fish". These days, fishing pens are all over the lake raising tilapia. A massive "fish kill" happened in the lake in 2011 due to toxic sulfur, a high level of hydrogen sulfide and a sudden drop of oxygen level. VOLCANO ISLAND The caldera (Taal Lake) formed as a result of one major eruption. Since then subsequent eruptions occured creating the Volcano Island, a 3 miles (5 km) wide island within the caldera. All recorded eruptions came from Volcano Island. Taal volcano produced some of the most historic eruptions. The first recorded eruption, centered at the main crater, was in 1572, since the old town of Taal was founded by the Friars during the Spanish occupation. It erupted 33 times since then (not including the 2020 eruption). The biggest eruption recorded was in 1754 which lasted for seven months, burying four towns nearby. Mount Tabaro, the highest point on Volcano Island, on the southwestern side, is the only crater that spilled lava. This is where several eruptions happened (from 1965 to 1977). Taal Volcano remained somewhat quiet since then until the recent eruption. MAIN CRATER LAKE In the center of Volcano Island is the Main Crater Lake, a caldera with blue-green water which you can see by riding a boat to the island and then hiking to the lake. Unfortunately, we didn’t have much time that day to hike to the lake, so we just took a boat to the shore of the island and back. That is one opportunity that we missed. Within this crater lake is a small island protruding from the water, a rocky remnant of an old crater floor called Vulcan Point. However, according to recent satellite views, the water of the Main Crater Lake seems to have disappeared after the eruption of 2020. The caldera lies at the intersection of major faults and great changes happen after every eruption. BININTIANG MALAKI ( BIG LEG) From the shore of Taal Lake, the prominent feature of the Volcano Island is the Binintiang Malaki or Big Leg, a perfect shaped dormant cone located at the tip of the island. The 862 foot (263-m) cone is the largest of the flank cones on Volcano Island, formed during an eruption in 1707. An isthmus connected it to the island. NOTE: Due to recent January 12, 2020 eruption, coming here is prohibited until Taal Volcano settles down. For how long? That is up to nature to decide. In time, nature and people will bounce back.

Utah has five national parks and we've been to all of them: Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, and Zion National Park. But of all these national parks, we have been to Arches National Park numerous times, by ourselves or with family and friends. The park is a fun place to explore. Every time we go there, the unusual formations never stop to amaze. We have driven all over the park to see all the popular arches and formations, too many to name here. We also hiked to several arches not seen from the road. THE PARK Arches National Park is located just to the northeast of Moab, Utah. The park has more than 2,000 known natural sandstone arches and countless other geological formations. Some are known to have collapsed over the years, one of which, Wall Arch, we have seen both before and after the collapse in 2008. The park lies over layers of salt beds deposited over 300 million years ago, when a sea flowed onto the region in the Pennsylvanian Period. The water evaporated and layers of salt deposits from repeated flooding piled up over many millions of years. It was covered with debris, sandstone and sediments; over time, the debris was compressed into rocks, which pushed the salt aside. That is what created domes, cavities, faults and anticlines (upfolds of the earth). Between 60 million and 10 million years ago, the accumulation of rocks on top of the salt deposits slowed and erosion began. Erosion stripped away more than 5,000 vertical feet of rock. Cracks began to open and support was weakened by groundwater seeping into cracks. The salt valley collapsed and arch formations, fins and sculpted rocks began to form. The results are what we can see in Arches National Park today. The area was created as a National Monument in 1929 and was upgraded to National Park in 1971. PETROGLYPHS Besides arches, there are other noteworthy sights to see in the park such as Petroglyphs. A wall of Petroglyphs can be found just off the main trail to Delicate Arch. They were created between 1650 and 1850. The horse and rider with the bighorn sheep and dog-like animals are typical of Ute Indian artworks. NOTE: You can find the Rock Art Sites (Indian Writing) on Scenic Byway 279, there is a sign by the road. WOLFE RANCH The Wolfe Ranch cabin, also known as Turnbow Cabin, is 17 feet x 15 feet was built in 1906. It was once home of John Wesley Wolfe, his son and daughter, together with her husband and two kids. Wolfe sold the ranch in 1910 to Tommy Larson and who then four years later sold it to J. Marvin Turnbow, first custodian of Arches National Monument. The last owner was Emmit Elizondo who sold the property to the U.S. Government to be included in the park. ROCK FORMATIONS & ARCHES Some arches can be seen from the car or from very short walks, while others require moderate or even long hikes. If you are not a hiker there are arches that are just short walking distance, as well as other rock formations including the Three Gossips, Queen Nefertiti and the Courthouse Tower. Some popular arches and formations that you can explore without walking far are: The Windows, Sand Dune Arch, Tunnel Arch, Double Arch, Pine Tree Arch, Turret Arch and Balanced Rock. Balanced Rock Balanced Rock is one of the most popular rock formations in Arches National Park, located beside the park’s main road, about 9 miles from the entrance. A balanced rock is a naturally occurring geological formation - a large rock or boulder resting on other rocks, bedrock or glacial till. This Balanced Rock, also called Balancing Rock, sits on top of a 55 foot pedestal. The balanced rock itself is about the size of three school buses. It weighs as much as 1,600 full-sized cars, about 3,577 tons. That should give some idea of how big that thing is. Someday, it will tumble as the softer pedestal rock erodes and crumbles. You don’t want to be nearby when that happens. NOTE: The best time to visit Arches National Park is either in spring or fall, when the weather is not too hot. Summer heat in the desert is unbearable, if you are not used to it. In Spring, the desert flowers are in bloom while in the Fall, the golden colors of cottonwood trees among red rock formations are amazing, so you have a choice. NEXT... Hiking in Arches National Park

One beautiful park you can explore in western Colorado is the Colorado National Monument in Mesa County. The park sits over 2,000 feet above the Grand Valley, near the city of Fruita just west of Grand Junction. Although far from Denver, about 260 miles via I-70 and about four and half-hour drive, it is worth the drive and your time to visit this park, if you haven’t yet. There are many hiking trails here, but you don’t have to hike to explore the area, you can drive along the Rim Rock Drive, known as the "Tour of the Moon", and see the beautiful sights without much effort. Along the drive are overlooks with spectacular views of the deep canyons and beyond to the Grand Valley and the cities of Fruita and Grand Junction. There is a campground if you want to stay more than one day. We don’t often come here, unless we stop to visit a friend living in the area, on our way to or from Moab or places further west. But this park truly is a beautiful place to go to throughout the year. May it be spring, summer, fall or winter, the park offers different experiences. There are many features different than in any other parks in Colorado. You will be fascinated by the rock sculptures and monoliths here. Use your imagination to understand why they named some of these rock formations Coke Ovens or Kissing Couple. Other monoliths are named after historic events by John Otto, the first custodian of the park, names that remain today such as Independence Monument. THE PARK Established in May 24, 1911, signed by President Taft, the Colorado National Monument became part of the National Park System. The Monument sits on a high desert plateau, the Colorado Plateau, which extends from western Colorado all the way across Utah and northern Arizona. Colorado National Monument was first explored in 1906 by John Otto, who later became the first ranger and custodian in the park, a job he did for for $1 a month, until he retired in 1927 and moved to Yreka California. His first impression of the canyon was: “I came here last year and found these canyons, and they felt like the heart of the world to me. I’m going to stay and build trails and promote this place, because it should be a national park.”. _ John Otto, 1907 Indeed, John Otto, who was described as a “benign but enthusiastic eccentric”, began building trails in these canyons, which local residents believed are inaccessible, with his two burros. He led a fundraising campaign, collected signatures for petitions, wrote newspaper editorials and sent endless letters to Washington, while continuing to build and maintain trails for 16 years and while living in a tent in the park. In 2011, the Monument celebrated its 100th anniversary recognizing Otto's work and his lobbying to include the Monument as part of the National Park System. Otto died a pauper at the age of 81 in 1952, unrecognized until his followers raised a fund to erect a memorial on his 50th death anniversary. THE RIM ROCK DRIVE – 23 miles Colorado National Monument is not only for hikers and bikers, you can experience the beauty of this park and what it offers by driving the Rim Rock Drive. You can either start at the west entrance near Fruita or the east entrance near Grand Junction. The monument has 23-miles of paved road that will take you to nineteen scenic overlooks. Each one offers different views, so take your time and enjoy. This is a very scenic drive, but take note, the spectacular views are enough to distract you so it is wise to pay attention, otherwise you will end down the cliffs. This is a winding road and there are sharp turns along the way. Beware of cyclists on the road as well. In this park you will find many sandstone rock formations sculpted by wind and water, such as the Independence Monument – a 450 foot high monolith, the tallest freestanding formation in the park. There are also the Kissing Couple, Balanced Rock, the Coke Ovens, Grand View, Artists Point, Highland View, Upper Ute Canyon Overlook, Ute Canyon View, Red Canyon Overlook, Cold Shivers Point, and many other rock formations. Photos from Rim Rock Drive Overlooks WILDFLOWERS It's nice to explore here in winter, the contrast between the red stone and white snow is stunning at this time of year. But in Spring the bright colors of wildflowers compete with the scenery. See the example below. Scarlet Globemallow Perky Sue Desert Indian Paintbrush The canyons below are also home to many wild animals such as red-tailed hawks, golden eagles and other birds, desert bighorn sheep and coyotes. You might get lucky to find some of them. NEXT... Hiking in Colorado National Monument

If this is the first time you heard about the Mosquito Range, the first thing that will cross your mind is that this range is probably populated by millions of mosquitoes. Far from it, this range is actually one of the driest and highest parts of Colorado. So, how did it get its name? It was lost in time, nobody knows exactly. The Mosquito Range includes the northern sub-range known as the Tenmile Range. It is one continuous high mountain ridge which starts in the town of Frisco in the north and ends near the town of Buena Vista to the south. To make it geographically easier to visualize, the Mosquito Range lies between the Front Range to the east and the Sawatch Range to the west. The range separates the headwaters of the Arkansas River near Leadville from South Park and the headwaters of the South Platte River near Fairplay. The Continental Divide crosses this range, between Wheeler Mountain and Clinton Peak. Much of Mosquito Range is located within the Pike National Forest. Before the white settlers arrived in the area, the Mosquito Range was a hunting ground for the Ute people. Then gold was discovered in the spring of 1860 and the area became a hub of mining activities. Population grew as miners flocked the area trying to "strike it rich." Towns were created in the surrounding area such as Fairplay, Alma and Leadville during this mining boom; today they are charming historic towns you can visit and stay in while exploring the Mosquito Range. FOURTENEERS IN MOSQUITO RANGE If you want to bag some fourteeners, there are five in this mountain range: Mount Lincoln (14,286 ft.), Mount Bross (14,172 ft.), Mount Democrat (14,148 ft.), Quandary Peak (14,265 ft.) and Mount Sherman (14,036 ft.). Three of these fourteeners are close together (four if you count the unofficial Mount Cameron), so that you might even bag them in one go, which is what a lot of hikers do. The highest peak in this range is Mount Lincoln, also the eight highest peak in Colorado. Part of this range is disputed between public and private lands, so you might want to check on this if you plan on climbing the peaks in this range. The Mosquito Range was heavily mined for gold and other precious metals. Hiking here you will find many mining relics left behind after the mining boom in the 1800's. Add that to the surrounding beautiful landscapes, lakes and waterfalls, it makes the hiking more interesting. Hermann has hiked many of the trails here and even climbed three of the fourteneers, but with me we hiked only two trails in this range, the Mohawk Lakes Trail and Mayflower Gulch Trail. - HIKING TRAILS - MOHAWK LAKES (Spruce Creek Trailhead) – 8 miles Mohawk Lakes are located south of Breckenridge - less than two-hour drive from Denver. To get to Spruce Creek Trailhead from I-70 heading west, take Exit 203 (Frisco/Breckenridge). Follow Highway 9 past the center of the town of Breckenridge. Turn right onto Crown Drive/Spruce Creek Road (Rd 800). The main trailhead is by the Spruce Creek Road - you can’t miss it. If you missed the turn, another way to the trailhead is past the private lake (Goose Pasture Tarn). From Highway 9 turn right onto Spruce Creek Road (County Road 800). Head west and then turn left at the junction of Crown Drive and Spruce Creek Road. There’s more! The Spruce Creek Road continues past the main trailhead. If you have a high clearance vehicle and want to shorten your hike, drive past the main trailhead and follow the dirt road, heading southwest. We will probably do that next time so we can hike all the way up past the Upper Mohawk Lake to the other unnamed ponds. This trail also leads to Crystal Lakes, heading north. You can four-wheel to the lower lake but not to the upper lake. This is a beautiful trail, it leads to waterfalls and several lakes and ponds, which of some are unnamed. The trail is a bit challenging and has a steep ascent, but it is still one of the most popular trails in the Mosquito Range. The first few miles will be in the forest but you will pass by an open wetland with a pond that reflects the mountain backdrops. The trail starts to get steep past a popular hut (Francie’s Cabin, part of the Summit County Hut System) named for Frances Lockwood Bailey, a former resident of Breckenridge who died in a tragic plane crash in 1989. This cabin can be rented even in winter time. Past the cabin take a little detour to Mayflower Lake; it’s a nice spot to rest and have a snack before tackling the steepest part of the trail. Between Mayflower Lake and Lower Mohawk Lake the trail gets even more interesting. You might want to spend some time here. You will find some beautiful waterfalls, especially the Continental Falls. The waterfalls cascade over three deep gullies on the rock face of the mountain. It is the largest waterfall in the area and one of the best photo opportunities you will find on this trail. Then before you reach the Lower Mohawk Lake you will pass remnants of an old mine. There’s an interesting contraption there, old mining equipment that still looks in great condition. About half a mile from the lower lake is the Upper Mohawk Lake. The last ascent is steep but short and the view from up above is fantastic. From there you will see the summits of two thirteeners, Pacific Peak (13950 ft) and Crystal Peak (13852 ft), part of the Mosquito Range. If you have time and energy, there are four unnamed lakes, or ponds, above the Upper Mohawk Lake. We hiked up to the first pond and then we turned around. We had to hike back down; after all, and we didn’t want to get caught in an afternoon thunderstorm, though no storms came that day. We wanted to spend more time, with so many interesting things to see on this trail. NEXT... MAYFLOWER GULCH

One of the closest wilderness areas you can explore from Denver is the Mount Evans Wilderness. It is located 40 miles west of Denver - south of I-70 and north of Highway 285. This wilderness contains two popular fourteneers - Mt. Evans (14,264 feet) and Mt. Bierstadt (14,060 feet). Mount Evans is the highest peak in this wilderness. You don’t have to hike here! You can just drive up to the parking lot and then a short walk to reach the summit. That is one reason why it's a very popular destination for thousands of visitors, it's an easy access with no effort, if you can handle the drive to the top. GETTING HERE The Mount Evans Scenic Byway, the highest paved road in North America, is the the most popular access to this wilderness area. Of course the roadway is not part of the wilderness, and there is a fee to enter here. The road to the summit of Mount Evans is actually State Highway 5. The scenic byway starts as Highway 103 in Idaho Springs, the nearest town. It continues past Echo Lake and onward over Squaw Pass to Evergreen. Another popular way to access Mt. Evans Wilderness is via Georgetown to Guanella Pass (County Road 381). The pass can also be accessed from the south by following Highway 285 to the junction of the Guanella Pass/Geneva Road in Grant. WILDERNESS ACT Before the creation of Wilderness Act of 1964, there was the U-Regulations of 1939 which designated primitive areas within the national forests. They governed Forest Service wilderness policy for more than twenty years prior to the wilderness act. Before the Mount Evans Wilderness was created, the U Regulations designated 5,880 acres as the Abyss Lake Scenic Area in Pike National Forest in 1956. In 1980, Congress designated the area as Mount Evans Wilderness, under the Wilderness Act. It spans 74,400 acres today. MOUNT EVANS The famous western landscape painter Albert Bierstadt was the first to summit this mountain. He initially named the mountain after his wife-to-be, Rosalie, but it was officially named “Mount Evans” in 1895, after John Evans, the second territorial governor of Colorado. The name Mount Rosalie was then moved to a 13,575-foot peak, about three miles southeast. Driving here might not be for everyone since the road is quite a "hairy" drive. The road is narrow, meandering and with deep ravines at the edge. But if you do drive here you will be rewarded by the spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. You might also get lucky to find mountain goats, or even bighorn sheep, along the way. I tell you, it's quite an experience. Stop at the Summit Lake before continuing on the remaining meandering road to the top. You can calm your nerves while anticipating the view that awaits on top. Also, look out for wildflowers, they last only for about 40 days. High mountain wildflowers have a short window to bloom. The mountains in close proximity to the city can become hectic at times, especially on summer weekends and holidays, so you might have to wait a while to find a parking spot. Come early or go on weekdays. If not, then look on the positive side, most visitors don't hang around here very long since it can be cold and windy. Once you reached the top and took some "selfies" with the wonderful view as a backdrop, you can now brag about it. - HIKING TRAILS - So, if you are into hiking, there are approximately 120 miles of trails in the Mount Evans Wilderness. We hiked some of these trails, some of them more than once. You can check the list here: Cub Creek Trail, Indian Creek Trail, Lost Creek Trail, Beartrack Lakes Trail, Beaver Meadows Trail, Lincoln Lake Trail, Captain Mountain Trail, Chicago Lakes Trail, Hells Hole Trail, Roosevelt Lakes Trail, Resthouse Meadows Trail, Summit Lake Trail, South Chicago Creek Trail, Abyss Lake Trail, Rosalie Trail, Meridian Trail, Threemile Trail, Tanglewood Trail, Mount Bierstadt Trail. ECHO LAKE – 1.3 mile If you live in Colorado and you have out of town visitors, most likely you will take them to Echo Lake before driving up to Mt. Evans. We do! It's the closest beautiful spot to impress out-of-towners. In winter, when the lake is frozen and everything is white, this area is like a winter wonderland. In summer you can hike, or walk, around Echo Lake as it’s an easy loop trail even for flat-landers. Mind the elevation if you are not acclimated yet. The lake is at about 10,640 feet, so you might find yourself out of breath. This lake is a favorite among families with kids. You can do some fishing, picnicking or just enjoy the day by the lake. There are picnic tables and also camping sites nearby for a real wilderness experience. Echo Lake is also the trailhead for some of the hiking trails in the Mount Evans Wilderness such as Chicago Lakes Trail, Resthouse Meadows Trail, and Captain Mountain Trail. On the east end of the lake is the Echo Lake Lodge built in 1924, right on the corner of Squaw Pass Road (Highway 103) and Mount Evans Road (Highway 5/Mt. Evans Scenic Byway). This lodge offer food and souvenirs to take home. BEARTRACK LAKES & CUB CREEK TRAILS – 5 to 10 miles round-trip The Beartrack Lakes Trail begins within the Mount Evans State Wildlife Area. Take note though, public access is prohibited here from the day after Labor Day to June 14 the following year, except for hunting and fishing. To get there from Denver, take I-70 west to the Evergreen Parkway exit. After a few miles turn right on County Road 74/Upper Bear Creek Road, then follow County Road 480. It will take you to the Camp Rock campground, which is the trailhead. This trail is rated difficult, but popular in summer months for backpackers, campers and hikers. The trail goes along Bear Creek for about a mile, then it’s a gradual ascent. Hiking uphill you will pass the burn areas in two locations. Wildflowers occupy these open burn areas today. In late summer, wild raspberries cover the hillside, right by the trail. I know they're for the bears, but we can't resist sampling some. They're small, but the sweetest we ever tasted. Make sure there are no bears lurking around when you are around in this area. We took a loop hike on this trail, not going all the way to the Beartrack Lakes, but it took us 10 miles to complete the loop. If you are camping or backpacking, fishing by the lakes is said to be good here. NOTE: Wilderness Areas have special regulations, check the U.S. Forest Service for information. Check with Idaho Springs Visitors Center or Colorado Department of Transportation for road conditions. The Mount Evans Road and Scenic Byway (Colorado Highway 5) is usually open from Friday of Memorial Day weekend through the first weekend in October, depending on weather conditions. The road and access to the top of Mount Evans is closed at Summit Lake the day after Labor Day. Weather conditions can change, even in summer, so come prepared. The best way is to dress in layers, it's easier to take it off when it gets warm or put it on when it gets chilly, hail, rain or extreme wind. Watch out for afternoon summer thunderstorms - they are common here and you don't want to be caught outside in one at this altitude. Vehicles over 30' long are not recommended on Highway 5 (Mount Evans road) due to the steep, narrow, winding road. NEXT... HIKING TO CHICAGO LAKES , CLIMBING MOUNT BIERSTADT OTHER NEARBY WILDERNESS YOU CAN EXPLORE: Indian Peaks Wilderness James Peak Wilderness Lost Creek Wilderness

This year is Zion’s one hundredth year since it was established, so I thought it’s appropriate to celebrate this wonderful park with an article about when we visited it. Zion is Utah's first national park and one of the most visited national parks in the United States - nearly 4.3 million visitors in 2016 and I can understand why. This park is well worth exploring, and just spending a day or two is not nearly enough. Its 232 square miles encompass some of the most scenic canyon country in the United States. Besides that, there are mountains, buttes, mesas, rivers, natural arches, and rock formations - created by sediments deposited over 150 million years ago. Its diverse flora and fauna are also not to be missed when in the park. If possible, you should plan on visiting Zion together with Bryce Canyon National Park since both are located in southwestern Utah and are not very far apart. You can get to these two national parks by taking US Highway 89. About 119 miles separate them which is about a three and a half hour drive non-stop. I know they seem close together when you look at them on Google Earth, but if you are in the area you might as well do both, believe me it’s worth the drive. The Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway and Tunnel The Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway and Tunnel is part of the "Grand Circle Tour" of Zion, Bryce, and Grand Canyon National Parks. It is a scenic drive to be sure and you should not miss it. One special part of this road, besides the stunning views, is the tunnel at the upper end of the canyon. The gallery windows on the side of the tunnel - you can take peek at the view through them while driving - once served as openings to throw out rock debris while construction crews excavated the tunnel. they also supplied ventilation and lighting while they were working inside the tunnel. This tunnel was opened in July 3, 1930. It was built when vehicles back in the days were small, so today, oversize vehicles need to arrange an escort to pass through. Due to its significant overall design and engineering, as well as planning, skills and materials used, the Zion Mt. Carmel Highway and Tunnel is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. It was also designated as a Historic Civil Engineering Landmark by the American Society of Civil Engineers in May of 2012. THE PARK We went to Zion in the Fall of 2012, as part of our southwest Utah trip. Spring or Fall is the best time to go there since the weather is cooler. It can be really hot in the summer, especially when you plan on hiking. Zion is fantastic, popular not only for climbers and hikers, but for everyone seeking to immerse themselves in nature. There are many short hikes to the most popular sights in the park. They are accessible from the free shuttle buses that operate in the canyon - private cars are not permitted most of the time, except in the off-season. It is a pleasant way to see Zion, no traffic on the road except for the occasional bus. You can get on and off any time you want at any of the many stops and viewpoints. Before Zion National Park was established, it was named as Mukuntuweap (mu-koon-tu-weap) National Monument in 1909. It was renamed when it was granted national park status by the U.S. Congress in November 19, 1919, signed by President Woodrow Wilson. The park has many interesting overlooks such as this unique Checkerboard Mesa. You will wonder how the crisscrossing pattern was made by nature. Nature indeed has many surprises waiting to be be discovered. If you are not in a hurry you can hike at the Checkerboard Mesa Canyon. It is also the gateway to a much longer hike. The names of the many featured sites in the park, such as the Watchman, the Altar of Sacrifice, the Three Patriarchs, the Great White Throne, Angels Landing, the Organ, and the Temple of Sinawava, have had religious significance bestowed by devoted visitors since before the park was established. THE VIRGIN RIVER Zion Canyon was not created by glacial activities. It was formed mainly by the work of the Virgin River from which rock and sand carried by the stream cut away at the canyon, widening and deepening it and at the same time, forming the unbelievable features we see today. We might not notice it but the landscape in Zion (and everywhere else) is a continually changing due to weathering. Human activities in the park’s landscape date back to at least 6,000 B.C. People have called the canyons and plateaus of Zion National Park home for over 10,000 years, from the Anasazi, the basket makers who moved southeast 800 years ago, to the Puebloans, the cliff dwellers. They were followed by Paiute peoples, and then the Mormon pioneers seeking lands to farm and to expand their church. In 1869, John Wesley Powell, professor, civil war veteran and explorer, together with his adventure seeking companions completed the first exploration of the uncharted canyons of the Green and Colorado Rivers and the Great Basin Desert. This was the first scientific exploration of southern Utah and the government became aware of Zion’s existence as a result of this expedition, which later inspired the creation of this park in order to protect it. Mapping of Zion was extended by Maj. C. E. Dutton in 1880. Fast forward to today, the park is popular for rock climbing and hiking. The trails range from easy to moderate to really serious hiking, meaning strenuous with a lot of miles and elevation gain, not to mention some serious exposure. Depending on the capabilities of a hiker, a moderate hike can be easy for some. Take note, people have fallen to their deaths from some of these trails, which are definitely not for the faint of heart or people with fear of heights. Some of the most popular trails in Zion are not for everyone, such as the Angels Landing, the Narrows, Observation Point, Hidden Canyon to name a few, so check at the visitor center before you attempt to hike these trails, if you haven't hike here yet. - EASY TO MODERATE HIKES - Zion has easy day hikes for families, even with easy wheel chair access such as the Pa’rus Trail, a 3.5 mile hike following the Virgin River between South Campground and Canyon Junction. Another easy hike is the Riverside Walk, located at the Temple of Sinawava. Also, there is the Canyon Overlook Trail which is about 1 mile with a view of the Zion canyon. RIVERSIDE WALK - 2-miles round trip The Riverside Walk trail is paved and ends at the beginning of the famous Virgin River Narrows. Beyond that is for experienced canyon hikers only, as it is the narrowest section of the canyon. If you plan on hiking "The Narrows", be prepared to get wet, you will have to do some wading into the Virgin River. Also the threat of flash floods is something to take note of - people have died there. EMERALD POOLS - 1.2 to 3 miles Check out the Emerald Pools Trails, with its spring-fed pools and waterfalls. It’s about 1.2 to 3 miles, depending on how far you want to go. You can hike to the lower, up to the middle, or all the way to the Upper Emerald Pool. It might not be impressive for seasoned hikers, but it will be good enough for families with kids. THE WEEPING ROCK TRAIL - 0.4 MILE The Weeping Rock Trail is about 0.4 mile, the shortest hike in the park. The trail leads to a spring where water drips from the Navajo sandstone. They say it's nice in spring here when there is more water dripping down the canyon wall. WATCHMAN TRAIL – 3-miles round trip The closest hiking trail you can take in Zion is right by the Visitor Center, just across the street from the shuttle stop. This trail has less crowds than the trails in the canyon, maybe because of its openness. There is not much shade on the trail, which can be really pretty hot, especially in summer. You definitely need to start early in the morning, or late in the afternoon, if you want to hike here. There is nothing strenuous about this trail - all in all, this trail is an easy to moderate hike. You will pass overhanging cliffs and scrub woodland vegetation - juniper, pinon pine and sage brush. Unless you are a climber, this trail won’t take you to the top of the Watchman mountain, but you will get a good view of its peak. It is the most recognized feature in the park. It guards the south entrance of Zion, hence its name. NOTE: For more info about the free shuttles, check the link here. NEXT... HIKING TO OBSERVATION POINT

Utah is one of our favorite places to explore. With five national parks and seven national monuments, how can you not love it. Utah is like a desert wonderland with so many unique natural features; some are hidden so you need to do some trekking in order to find them and see them up close and personal. Each of these parks offers a unique experience, but what sets Bryce Canyon apart is its geology, the unbelievable hoodoos and amphitheaters. Although Bryce has "canyon" in its name, it is not actually a canyon, but a series of more than a dozen amphitheaters which stretch 20 miles from north to the south. Over two million visitors come here annually, but the majority probably stay only at the rim of the canyon where the overlooks are. If you haven’t hiked down below, you should, I promise it’s worth the effort. It is magical down there. THE PARK Visiting Bryce Canyon was part of our Southwestern Utah road trip, which included hiking in Zion National Park, Capitol Reef National Park and Natural Bridges National Monument. Bryce Canyon National Park occupies the eastern edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau. It was named after Ebenezer Bryce, a Scottish immigrant and a Mormon pioneer who homesteaded in the area in 1874, sent by the church to settle the land. He and his family lived below Bryce Amphitheater, which according to him is a "helluva place to lose a cow”. I can imagine, you can easily get lost down there. Other settlers called the area "Bryce's Canyon", which formally became Bryce Canyon later on. Bryce Canyon was first designated a National Monument in 1923 by President Warren G. Harding. Then it was elevated to National Park status in 1928 by Congress. The park covers 35,835 acres - small compared to other national parks. There is little known about early human activities in the Bryce Canyon area. Archaeological surveys show that people have been in the area for at least 10,000 years. Several thousand years-old artifacts from the Anasazi have also been found south of the park, as well as artifacts from other cultures up to the mid-12th century. The first major scientific expedition to the area was led by U.S. Army Major John Wesley Powell in 1872. Together with his team of mapmakers and geologists, they surveyed the Sevier and Virgin River areas including the Colorado Plateau. His map maker kept many of the Paiute place names, from the old inhabitants who left the area after a series of droughts, overgrazing and flooding. VIEWPOINTS You don't really have to hike to see the spectacular views in Bryce Canyon National Park - not everyone is equipped to do so, or physically fit enough. You can explore by car then stop at several viewpoints along the rim - we did that the first day and hiked down the canyon the next day. There are four major viewpoints along the rim - Sunrise Point, Sunset Point, Inspiration Point and Bryce Point. In summer the park offers shuttle bus service for tourists; although not mandatory, it is encouraged in order to minimize congestion and impact in the park. (Check the National Park Service for shuttle bus info) NATURAL BRIDGE Bryce Canyon is known for its hoodoos, but there are several Natural Bridges found there as well. One of them is this 85 feet high natural bridge - or arch or window, whichever you prefer. It is easily accessed from the Bryce Canyon rim drive, just right by a parking lot. You may perhaps not be impressed by this one if you've seen the arches in Arches National Park, but look closely, as this is a good example of the hoodoos in the making. Weathering and erosion from ice and rain, the main factors of sculpting the hoodoos, break down the rocks into walls, windows, and then into individual hoodoos. NEXT... Hiking in Bryce Canyon National Park

Arizona has several national monuments worth visiting in addition to its national parks. We’ve been to all three national parks, but we never got around to visiting Canyon de Chelly (pronounced, “de-Shay”) National Monument until this year. This park is one of the most visited national monuments in the United States, but since it was autumn it was not crowded when we were there. What pushed us to visit this place was when it was mentioned in a book we read entitled Blood and Thunder: An Epic of the American West, by Hampton Sides. The book is about Kit Carson, a frontiersman, trapper, guide, soldier and Indian agent. It was a long and complicated story and a sad one at that, but if you like history I recommend you to read it. Anyway, to make a long story short, Carson's connection with Canyon de Chelly is that he was responsible for the removal of the Navajo tribe in the canyon, but he also advocated for the creation of the Indian Reservations. THE PARK Canyon de Chelly National Monument is located in the northeastern part of Arizona, within the boundaries of the Navajo Nation in the Four Corners Region. The main entrance is just east of Chinle, the largest town in the area and the gateway to Canyon de Chelly. There is no fee to enter the park, unless you take a tour of the canyon floor or camp at the campgrounds. Canyon de Chelly National Monument was established on April 1, 1931 authorized by President Herbert Hoover, as a unit of the National Park Service. It was created to preserve the important archaeological resources in the area that span more than 4,000 years. The park is entirely owned by the Navajo Tribal Trust of the Navajo Nation, but they work in partnership with the National Park Service to manage Canyon de Chelly. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places on August 25, 1970. This canyon is called Canyon de Chelly, but to the Navajo tribe it is called “tsegi” (SAY-ih), meaning “rock canyons” or “between the rocks”. This canyon preserves ruins of the indigenous tribes that lived in the area, from the Ancestral Puebloans (formerly known as Anasazi, the “ancient ones”) to the Navajo. Canyon de Chelly is one of the longest continuously inhabited landscapes of North America. The park’s one main attraction is its landscape, with meandering streams as well as rich vegetation between steep rocky cliffs found in some areas. It encompasses approximately 84,000 acres of land, including the floors and rims of the Canyon de Chelly and Canyon del Muerto. Plants that thrive here range from desert grasslands to evergreen forest. Mountain lions, black bear, and bobcats are some of the animals that live here. We actually saw a black bear while driving along the rim road. THE CANYON The incredible sheer cliffs alone are enough to impress, but looking down to the canyon floor is like looking at a different world. It is lush with vegetation. The canyon has natural water sources and rich soil, which supported human inhabitants for thousands of years. The Ancient Puebloans planted crops and raised families here 5,000 years ago. Their descendants - the Hopi people - spent their summers in the canyon cultivating peach orchards and corn. Even today, the Navajo, or Diné, as they like to call themselves, who entered the canyon 400 years ago, live and farm the land and raise livestock here. The canyon's tall vertical walls provided protection for the inhabitants since ancient times. The canyon walls rise from only 30 feet high from the canyon’s mouth near Chinle to 1,000 feet high as you get further into the canyon. The canyon's sandstone was deposited as sediments during the Permian Period, then carved by millions of years of stream-cutting and land uplifts, ending up with the beautiful site that we see today. Nature is indeed incredible. The "Long Walk" Canyon de Chelly is peaceful today, but it was the last refuge of the Navajo during the height of warfare with other tribes and Spanish colonists in 1700. In 1846, Watts Kearny subdued Mexican forces and claimed present day New Mexico and Arizona as a U.S. territory. He proposed peace agreement among tribes, but conflicts continued for another seventeen years. The expansion of the American West brought death and suffering to the native tribes. In the winter of 1864, Col. Kit Carson sent troops through the canyon, destroying hogans, orchards and sheep, leading to the surrender of the Navajos. They were forced to march over 300 miles, which they called the “Long Walk”, to Fort Summer (now called Bosque Redondo) in New Mexico territory. Some died from thirst, fatigue and hunger on the way. After years of living in poor shelters, lack of food, diseases and death, a treaty was signed between the Navajo and the U.S. Government in 1868 which allowed them to return home to rebuild their lives. EXPLORING THE CANYON RIMS Entering the canyon floor is restricted, due to the canyon’s delicate geology and historic artifacts - with the exception of White House Ruin Trail, which is a self-guided hiking trail. You can only enter the canyon floor with a park ranger or an authorized Navajo guide. Unfortunately, by the time we were there, entry to the canyon floor was closed for the season. So, we just drove around the rims of the canyon and stopped at overlooks. The South Rim Drive and North Rim Drive are 37 miles and 34 miles round-trip respectively from the visitor center - this includes driving to all of the overlooks. Even though we weren't able to see the ancient ruins up close, it was fascinating to see the canyon itself. It is something to behold. The Antelope overlook is one of my favorite viewpoints; it was such a peaceful landscape and scenery that I could just sit there and absorb the beauty of the surroundings for some time, if only we had enough time. ANCIENT & GEOLOGIC FEATURES When exploring the rim of the canyon, you will find ancient ruins and geologic rock formations at certain viewpoints. Look down below and you will see homes and farms of the Navajo, as well as some of the ancient ruins left behind by the Anasazi - but some are a considerable distance away, so you need binoculars to see them a little closer. Deep within the park, in Canyon del Muerto along the north rim drive, is Mummy Cave which features structures that have been built at various times. Antelope House & Mummy Cave Massacre Cave At the Massacre overlook, there's a cave where a group of Navajo had fortified themselves in a battle against a Spanish military expedition led by Lt. Antonio Narbona in 1805. Over one hundred Navajo died here. Spider Rock At the Spider Rock overlook, you will find sandstone pinnacles that rise up to 750 feet above the canyon floor. According to traditional Navajo beliefs, the taller of the two spires is the home of a Spider Woman who taught the Navajo how to weave. The other version of the myth is that the taller of the two spires is the home of Spider Grandmother who keeps the bones of her victims on top. We didn't have enough time to hike but if you do, there's a self-guided hiking trail to the White House Ruin. The hike starts at the White House Overlook on the South Rim. It takes about two hours, leading down and back to the rim. The White House was built by ancestral Puebloan people and named for a white plaster wall of the upper dwelling. This picture is an example of a Hogan, a sacred dwelling located at the Visitor Center. This one is a female hogan, an 8-sided dwelling used as a residence or for ceremonial purposes - the male hogan is square and used primarily for storage. If you want a real Navajo experience, some Navajo families offer their hogans as lodging. Visiting this place on our way to California was part of our "spur of the moment" road trip this year. Although our visit was short, we were fascinated by what we have seen - what more if we had been able to explore the canyon floor. NOTE: Navajo National Monument (and the Navajo Nation) observes Mountain Daylight Savings Time, unlike the rest of Arizona, which remains on standard time year-round. OTHER SIGNIFICANT SITES TO VISIT IN THE AREA: MONUMENT VALLEY NAVAJO TRIBAL PARK FOUR CORNERS MONUMENT (FOUR CORNERS TRIBAL PARK)

Yellowstone National Park is one of the two national parks (the other is Grand Teton National Park) that you can visit in one trip in the state of Wyoming. It was the first national park ever established not only in the United States but in the world. The park is shared by other two neighboring states, but the majority of the park - about 96 percent - is located in Wyoming, encompassing a vast northwest portion of the state. The other three percent is within Montana and one percent in Idaho. The park is about 2,219,789 acres, bigger than the states of Rhode Island or Delaware. It was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978. The park's main feature is its many geothermal features - hot springs, geysers, mudpots, fumaroles, and travertine terraces. When we visited the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland in Rotorua, New Zealand, we were quite impressed then, but Yellowstone by far is even more spectacular. The park has 290 waterfalls. It also contains a petrified forest which I thought was only found in the Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona. Wildlife as well as lakes, canyons, rivers and mountain ranges are also some of the wonderful features you can explore in the park. THE PARK Yellowstone National Park was designated a national park by the U.S Congress under President Ulysses S. Grant on March 1, 1872. Although explorers talked about the landscape and its steaming pools and geysers in this region for years, most people thought of it as just a myth. Organized exploration only began in the late 1860's. Ferdinand V. Hayden, of the Hayden Geological Survey of 1871, was one of many men who advocated the creation of the park. He believed in "setting aside the area as a pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people". Yellowstone National Park has plenty of recreational opportunities - hiking, camping, boating and fishing. But our visit was a "spur of the moment" road trip, so we didn't have enough time to do any planning. We did what typical tourists do, we explored by car and enjoyed the drive, and nature, visiting easy access viewpoints. There are five entrances in the park – North, West, Northeast, South and East entrances. Since we drove from California through Nevada, Idaho and then Montana, we entered by the West Entrance of the park, located right at the town of West Yellowstone where we stayed. Although we love to visit all the popular sites in the park we only had two days, not enough time to explore even by car. I guess we could have stayed for a few days more, but we didn't want to be stuck in the middle of a snow storm (which was coming), as we planned to visit the Grand Teton National Park as well. Yellowstone is a beautiful park I will say- impressive, stunning and colorful, many photo opportunities abound. Although it was autumn and the peak season was over, there were still crowds in some areas - I can't imagine what it's like in summer, it must be chaotic. We had one advantage - since we travel on our own we can go to other viewpoints where buses are not allowed. There, you can take your time and really enjoy the wonders of nature. As in Grand Teton National Park, archaeological findings suggests that people began traveling through this area more than 11,000 years ago - just after the glaciers of the ice age receded. Native Americans have had traditional connections to this land and its resources even before the park was established. They hunted, fished and gathered plants here, as well as quarried obsidian to use as tools such as arrowheads. They used the thermal waters for religious and medicinal purposes. Visiting the Park in Autumn The positive side of visiting the park in autumn is there are less crowds, but you have to be prepared for the unexpected weather conditions. It can snow and can be quite chilly. If it's cold, walking on icy boardwalks can be quite tricky, especially in early morning. It is slippery! The ice is formed by the steam settling on the surface. Thinking of falling into the thermal areas where you can get cooked in the boiling cauldron, or can get scalded by the steam, gave us second thoughts whether we should continue on, but we got by, very slowly. Some chicken wire draped over the boardwalks would be a big help in this condition, just like what they have on many of the trails in New Zealand. GEOTHERMAL FEATURES Half of the world’s geysers and hydrothermal features are here in Yellowstone National Park. About 10,000 thermal features and more than 300 geysers are found here, the product of millions of years of geological activity. Much of Yellowstone sits inside an ancient volcanic caldera, the largest supervolcano on the continent, which after eruption caused the ground to collapse, thus creating the volcanic depression called a “caldera.” The last major caldera forming eruption occurred 600,000 years ago. If another large caldera-forming eruption were to occur at Yellowstone, it would be a catastrophic event with impacts worldwide. But no worries - as experts suggest, the probability of a large caldera-forming eruption within the next few thousand years is said to be low. Some of the thermal features are found right by the road such as this Beryl Spring. You can hardly see its blue-green color due to the steam coming out of it, but you can really feel the heat and hear the boiling sound. Geysers Geysers are hot springs that erupt periodically. The eruptions are the result of super-heated water below-ground becoming trapped in channels leading to the surface. There are two types of geysers, fountain geysers which shoot water out in various directions through a pool, and cone geysers which shoot water out in a fairly narrow jet, usually from a cone-like formation. Hot Springs Hot Springs vary from boiling water to calm pools. They are similar to geysers, but their underground channels are large enough to allow rapid circulation of water. Without constriction, water rises, cools and drains back down freely. The microorganisms which live in and around the hot springs can make some of the pools very colorful. These thermophilic (heat-loving) microorganisms play an important role in Earth's ecosystem. They thrive here, some even in extreme conditions such as those with high levels of sulfur or calcium carbonate, acidic water, or alkaline springs. Mudpots & Fumaroles Mudpots are acidic hot springs with little water supply. The acid from volcanic gases and microorganisms dissolve the surrounding rock into clay and mud. Rising steam forces its way upwards sending showers of mud into the air. It's like cooking thick gravy on high heat. Fumaroles or steam vents are the hottest hydrothermal features in the park. These are cracks in the surface of the ground through which pressurized steam from below escapes to the surface, oftentimes with a hissing sound. - WATERFALLS - There are over two hundred waterfalls in Yellowstone National Park, and at least 45 are named. Some can be viewed a few steps from the road and some need a little effort on your part to reach them, meaning a little hiking, or even a long hike, is required. One of the most visited waterfalls in the park are the Upper and the Lower Yellowstone Falls. We missed the Upper Yellowstone Falls but you can't possibly miss the lower falls. It is located east of Canyon Village. Lower Yellowstone Falls The Lower Yellowstone Falls is the biggest waterfall in the Rocky Mountains of the United States. The 308-foot falls is nearly twice as high as Niagara Falls and one of the most photographed and visited sites in the park. You will be able to see the falls from various viewpoints here, or even get closer if you want to hike down. It was a short hike but at that time the trail was very treacherous due to ice accumulated in shaded areas. We wished we had brought along our hiking spikes. To say that this is one of the most popular waterfalls in the park is not only because of its stunning location within the canyon, but also because of its easy access from the road. The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone The Lower Yellowstone Falls flows down into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. It is believed that the canyon wall was created by catastrophic flooding from melting ice at the end of the last glacial period. The canyon is about 24 miles long with various depths of 800 to 1200 feet and has a width of 1500-4000 feet at the rim. The beautiful color of the canyon walls is due to hot spring activities which produce iron compounds. - HISTORIC STRUCTURE - There are many structures in the park providing facilities for visitors and park management that have historical significance. The park is also home to five “rustic” works of architecture - the Old Faithful Inn, the Northeast Entrance Station, and the Norris, Madison, and Fishing Bridge museums. The Old Faithful Inn The day we visited the Old Faithful Inn they were closing for the season. A few minutes later and we would have had to come back next year or whenever to see it. We didn't know this, but we had just enough time to see the lobby, and use the loo. The Old Faithful Inn, built in 1903-04, is a national historic landmark. It is the world's largest log cabin ever built. The seven-story high structure was built out of local logs and stone. Its predominant feature is its gabled, shingled roof. Inside the towering lobby is a massive stone fireplace and a hand-crafted clock made of copper, wood and wrought iron. WILDLIFE IN THE PARK Sitting on the Yellowstone Plateau, the park is at the heart of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, one of the largest nearly intact temperate-zone ecosystems on Earth. Yellowstone National Park is famous for its large animals - bear, bison and many others. It supports a variety of habitats that sustain wildlife. In any national park we've ever been to we always know if there's some wildlife to be seen, it creates long traffic jams. I can understand why since it is after all a rare opportunity for tourists to see them, let alone to photograph them. We've seen plenty of elk and deer and coyote, so we just pass them by, but we were hoping to see some bison or even bears. We did not see any bears, but we got lucky to see some bison by the road. Cars were crawling by but no one got out of their car, which is good. We were not aiming for an award winning shot, so taking pictures from inside the car was good enough for us. The closest we got to a bison was when we were driving early in the morning. We saw a lone bison walking along the road without a care in the world. He walked by so close to our car that he, or she, could have had a cheek to cheek greeting with Hermann. This bison had not yet created a traffic since the majority of tourists were probably still having their breakfast. Bison, also called buffalo, are fascinating animals aren't they? They're like remnants of prehistoric times, which is actually true, since bison have lived in Yellowstone continuously since prehistoric times. The bison in the park are pure-bred and not hybridized. NOTE: The West Entrance of the park is open to wheeled vehicles from April 20 to November 4, and to tracked vehicles from December 17 to March 12. People have died in Yellowstone National Park. Heed the warnings, they are there for a reason. Other Places to Explore in Wyoming Grand Teton National Park & Devils Tower National Monument

Wyoming has two national parks, Yellowstone National Park and Grand Teton National Park. If you visit one, it makes sense to visit the other, only seven miles separate these two parks. In between, connecting these two parks is the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway, established in 1972 in honor of his contributions and dedication to the national park system. One of his philanthropic works was buying 35,000 acres of private lands in the Teton Valley and donating them to the federal government to be part of the Grand Teton National Park. Visiting the Grand Teton National Park (as well as Yellowstone National Park) was a “spur of the moment” road trip for us this year. We didn’t do any hiking or camping - not enough time for that or to even plan for it. We just drove around and enjoyed the awesome scenery in the park, taking photos on a whim - "playing tourist” as they say. It was enough to be mesmerized by the beauty of nature in this place. I can understand why it is one of the ten most visited national parks in the U.S. It will give any visitor a memorable impression of the place. You don’t have to be a climber or a hiker to appreciate the stunning beauty of the Tetons mountain range. It far exceeds anyone’s expectations. GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK Grand Teton National Park, named for the highest peak in the Teton Range, was originally established in 1929 to protect the range as well as several lakes at the foot of the mountains. It then took decades to expand this park as we know it today. In 1943, Franklin Delano Roosevelt declared the remaining federal land in the valley as Jackson Hole National Monument. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. donated the land he purchased to the government to be included in the national park in 1949. Then in 1950, Congress finally combined the original park, the national monument, and the Rockefeller lands to establish the present-day Grand Teton National Park. THE TETON RANGE The Teton Range is the youngest range in the Rockies. It towers over the valley of Jackson Hole and is the focal point of the Grand Teton National Park. This range contains some of the oldest rocks in North America. For the Shoshone people, this range is known as Teewinot, meaning “many pinnacles”. Early French explorers, or fur trappers, called this mountain range “les trois tétons” meaning "the three nipples", due to the breast-like shapes of the three peaks - the South, Middle and Grand Teton. There's a group of the tallest mountains in the range that are referred to as the Cathedral Group, peaks that are over twelve thousand feet. The best-known peak is of course the Grand Teton (13,775 feet), the highest peak in the Teton Range (and the second highest peak in Wyoming). The Grand Teton, Middle Teton (12,804 feet) and South Teton (12,514 feet), form the heart of the range. Other well-known peaks are Mount Owen (12,928 feet), Teewinot Mountain (12,325 feet) and Mount Moran (12,605 feet), the most prominent peak in the northern end of the range. The rugged 40-mile long Teton Range is impressive, imposing and challenging. Qualities that any climbers would want to conquer, which is why the mountains here are among the top climbing destinations in the United States. There are no foothills in this range, just sharp rugged mountains rising straight up from the valley floor. There are over ninety different routes to the summits of these mountains today, and many climbers have reached these peaks, but no one really knows who was the first to summit the Grand Teton. There are controversies; the 1872 Hayden Expedition claimed to be the first to reach the summit, but a group of climbers - William Owen, Franklin Spalding, John Shive and Frank Peterson - made the first documented summit in 1898. One thing for sure, the Native Americans have been climbing in this range even before the Americans came. They left behind evidence, an enclosure, or structure, found at the sub-summit of the Grand Teton. The Valley The valley has drawn people here for more than 11,000 years. They helped shape the landscape that we see today. The earliest evidence of who entered the valley (Jackson Hole valley today) are the Nomadic paleo-Indians, right after Pleistocene Ice Age glaciers retreated. They left behind ancient remains - tipi rings, fire pits and stone tools. Later, they were followed by other tribes such as Shoshone, Blackfoot and other native American tribes. The first American explorer who entered the valley is said to be John Colter, a member of the Lewis and Clark “Corps of Discovery” expedition. After leaving the expedition in the fall of 1806, he traveled through the region in the winter of 1807-1808. Unfortunately, he left no record of his journey, but a stone unearthed by a farmer later on was found with his name and date on it. It was the only evidence that he was in the valley, although it is still questionable whether he was the one who wrote it. The famous Snake River meanders along this valley, the largest river in the park and is an “Anglers paradise”. Congress designated this river as a Wild and Scenic River. GLACIAL LAKES Pleistocene Ice Age glaciers sculpted the Teton landscape. There are seven glacial lakes in the park - Jackson Lake, Leigh Lake, String Lake, Jenny Lake, Bradley lake, Taggart Lake, and Phelps Lake. That is only those lakes that sit at the base of the mountains. There are many more small alpine lakes higher up. All were formed when the glaciers of the last ice age retreated, leaving behind terminal moraines which acted as natural dams. Some of these lakes can be found at the base of the Cathedral Group, and three have easy access from the road with spectacular views of the Teton Range. Jenny Lake Jenny Lake, the second largest lake in Grand Teton National Park was formed about 12,000 years ago by glaciers. The lake is named after a Shoshone Indian wife of an Englishman, Richard “Beaver Dick” Leigh, a trapper who helped guide the Hayden Expedition of 1872. The nearby Leigh Lake was named after him by the Hayden Expedition. Jenny, who assisted with camp logistics during the Hayden expedition, and their six children died of smallpox in 1876. Jenny Lake is about 423 feet deep and encompasses 1,191 acres. Many hiking trails start here as well as access to the major climbing routes on the Teton Range. If climbing the Tetons is not on your bucket list, you can ride a boat, fish, or do some kayaking. Jenny and Jackson Lakes are the only lakes in Grand Teton National Park where motorboats are permitted. Jackson Lake Jackson Lake is one of the largest high altitude lakes in the United States (6,772 ft. above sea level). This lake is the remnant of glacial gouging from the nearby Teton Range to the west and Yellowstone Plateau to the north, fed by the Snake River flowing from the north. This natural lake was enlarged by a dam, the Jackson Lake Dam, of which some of the water is used to irrigate farms in Idaho. Several species of fish inhabit this lake such as Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat trout and mountain white fish, including the non-native brown and lake trout. String Lake String Lake is an outflow of Leigh Lake. A creek connects String Lake to Jenny Lake. This lake is a favorite among locals and visitors, due its shallow and warmer water and beaches and picnic areas nearby. A wetland area located on the northwest of the lake is a prime habitat for moose. If you have time for hiking, trailheads can also be found here. THE MORMON ROW Jackson Hole was one of the last places to be settled after the Homestead Act of 1862. Harsh weather, rocky soils and difficult access made this a challenging place to settle. The Homestead Act granted ownership to any person willing to build a house and cultivate this area for five years. But homesteaders did not arrive in Jackson Hole until 1884. The members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, or Mormons, from Idaho were sent by their leaders from the Salt Lake Valley to establish a new community here in the 1890's. They settled in a community east of Blacktail Butte that was named Grovont by the U.S. Post Office, which is now known as “Mormon Row”. They grew crops in spite of the harsh conditions, digging ditches by hand and with the help of horses, to irrigate their fields with water coming from the Gros Ventre River - water still flows today in some of these ditches. However, the homesteaders struggled raising crops and cattle in the valley. The soil is sandy and rocky, summer is dry, and winter is long and cold. They shifted to "dude ranching" when they realized that catering to the wealthy wanting to experience the wild west was easier and more profitable. This led to the golden age of dude ranching in the 1920's. Two picturesque barns have become popular in Mormon Row today, the John Moulton barn and his brother's, the T.A. (Thomas Alma) Moulton barn. We did not know about T.A. Moulton's barn's existence when we were there, so unfortunately we don't have a picture of it. Anyhow, these two barns are the most photographed barns in America. You can see why, with the Teton range as a backdrop, this is a perfect photo opportunity for photographers, professional or not. The John Moulton Barn is part of John and Bertha Moulton’s homestead. The barn and their more modern-style, pink stucco home are one of the 27 homesteads built at Mormon Row. Only six remain today. The Mormon Row was acquired for Grand Teton National Park and was added to the National Register of Historic Places on June 5, 1997. CHAPEL OF THE TRANSFIGURATION There's a small charming log chapel in the park called the Chapel of the Transfiguration. Located in the community of Moose, the chapel was originally built in 1925 for the employees and guests of the dude ranches of the Jackson Hole Valley. The construction materials and labor were funded by the local ranchers. The chapel was built with exposed log interior walls and stained glass windows on either side. There's a canopied entrance to the complex which serves as a bell tower. In 1980, the chapel was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. This chapel also has the advantage of having the Teton Range as a backdrop. A perfect photo opportunity. Inside, the large window behind the altar was specifically built to frame the stunning view of the Tetons - enough of a distraction, I think, when trying to hear the word of God during a mass. As a famous saying goes, "when I am in the mountains, I think of God, when I am in church, I think of the mountains". It seems kind of fitting. JACKSON HOLE AIRPORT At the base of the Teton Range is Jackson Hole Airport, the only airport in the U.S. located inside a National Park. It is the largest and busiest commercial airport in Wyoming. Built in 1930’s, it became part of the national monument that was declared in 1943 and became part of the Grand Teton National Park in 1950. This is the only airport inside an American National Park. - HISTORIC TOWN OF JACKSON - At the edge of the national park is the historic town of Jackson. A nice place to stay when visiting the Tetons. It is the only incorporated town in the valley, named in late 1893 by Margaret Simpson, the local postmaster at the time. The post office was non-existent and she was receiving mail at her home. She named the town Jackson, after David Edward “Davy” Jackson, a beaver trapper in the late 1820's, in order for easterners to forward mail west. He was one of the first European Americans to spend an entire winter in the valley. The term “Hole” was used by early trappers, or mountain men, as a term for a large mountain valley that provided good habitat for beaver. Hence the name “Jackson Hole”. Town Square/ George Washington Memorial Park Jackson is a resort town and is well known for its small town square with arches made out of elk antlers. Yes, they are real antlers and make one-of-a-kind arches. This square is actually named George Washington Memorial Park, designated in 1932. There are arches on each corner, so if it takes forever to wait for your turn to take picture with the arch, there are three more. People usually go for the first one they see, which is by the intersection of the two main streets. The first unique arch was built in 1953 by the local Rotary Club, Boy Scouts, and community members of Jackson Hole. The remaining three arches were built in 1966, in 1967 and in 1969. It took them thirteen years to complete all four and they are rebuilt about every 50 years. Each arch has more than 2,000 antlers, collected from the National Elk Refuge in the valley nearby, which hundreds of elk use as a grazing range in the winter. Surrounded by beautiful shops, galleries and restaurants, the center of town has an old wild west vibe, with sidewalks built of wooden boards. The town square is a hub for festivals and events. In May, the community celebrates ElkFest, a multi-day festival with vendors, music, and food. During ElkFest, the harvested antlers are auctioned off to bidders from around the world, with a portion of the proceeds benefiting the National Elk Refuge. NOTE: There are many hiking trails and backpacking adventures in the Tetons, but it is recommended to consult the Visitor Center Park Ranger before venturing out. The Teton Mountain Range is open year-round, but much of the park is inaccessible during winter time. Winter sports are available and there are ski resorts nearby. OTHER PLACES TO EXPLORE IN WYOMING YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT

The state of Utah is well known for its National Parks - Arches National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Zion National Park, and Canyonlands National Park - we’ve visited them all and hiked in them as well - several times in some. But there are other sites in Utah that you might want to explore other than the national parks, if you haven’t yet. The National Monuments in Utah offer the same unique nature’s wonders, with a bit less visitors, therefore they can be less crowded. One of these monuments is the Natural Bridges National Monument. This park is located 50 miles northwest of the "Four Corners" (where Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah meet at a common point) in southeastern Utah. The Natural Bridges National Monument was established in 1908, by President Theodore Roosevelt, as Utah's first National Park Service area. The park has the second-largest natural bridge in the world - the Sipapu Bridge. The other two - Kachina and Owachomo might not be as big as Sipapu, but they are impressive as well. You won't be able to realize the scale until you are standing underneath them. All three Natural Bridges in the park was named in honor of the Native Americans who once lived in the area - the Hopis. DRIVING THE LOOP Natural Bridges has a nine-mile scenic loop drive that meanders through the park. There are various stopping points, including overlooks at each of the three bridge locations. There are trails from the overlooks down to each of the bridges, which are at the bottom of the canyon. We did both, drove the scenic loop and hiked in the canyon. - HIKING TRAIL - While the bridges can be seen from the scenic drive, the best way by far is to hike down to them. There is a long nine-mile loop hike on which all three bridges can be visited. The trail begins at Sipapu trailhead and at some point you will take the ladder down the bottom of the canyon. This is a strenuous hike that will take the better part of a day. We hiked the full loop which is about 9.8 miles. If you don't want to hike the full loop, shorter partial loop hikes can be made. The Sipapu-Kachina Loop is 5.7 miles, the shortest hike, while Kachina-Owachomo is 6.5 miles. In any case, some hiking across the mesa-top is necessary; trails connect all three locations. Even down below it can get hot. I can’t imagine what it’s like to hike here in summer. We met only a handful of hikers along the trail, as we had the place to ourselves most of the time. It was so quiet down below, except for the sounds of nature. We came here in Autumn (of 2012), one of the best times of year to hike in the canyon, not only because of the fall colors but for cooler weather as well. In the fall, the hike in the canyon is especially scenic when the cottonwood trees have changed their color from green to golden yellow. THE CANYON FLOOR Down in the canyon, it was colorful and lush with vegetation! The fall colors of the trees and sandstone's many hues gave the canyon contrasting views that are wonderful to see. Photo opportunities abound. You will find riparian trees and plants growing near the water - cottonwoods, grasses, wildflowers and other water-loving plants. Unbelievable how nature works, shallow groundwater and some occasional flash floods are enough for these plants to thrive in the canyon. Although it's Fall, we still saw some plants blooming in the canyon such as yellow evening primrose. What would it be like in late spring I wonder? The wildflowers in bloom must be incredible. THE NATURAL BRIDGES Before the bridges were formed, the area covering eastern Utah was a beach. Imagine it 260 million years ago; seeing what we see today, it's hard to believe isn't it? Unlike arches, which are formed by various kinds of erosion including wind and the freeze/thaw action of water, natural bridges are formed through erosion by water flowing in the stream beds of the canyons in which they are located. The power of water, wind and time are something to behold indeed. The three natural bridges in the park have been named several times by earlier explorers, names such as "President", "Senator" and "Congressman". Then to "Augusta", "Caroline" and "Edwin" - not very imaginative names I would think. But in 1909 the General Land Office gave them the Hopi names - Sipapu, Kachina and Owachomo - far more appropriate names I believe. Besides the natural bridges, the park was also expanded to protect the Puebloan structures nearby. We didn't see them unfortunately. Sipapu Bridge, the second largest natural bridge in the world. Sipapu means "the place of emergence," an entryway by which the Hopi believe their ancestors came into this world. Kachina Bridge is believed to be the youngest natural bridge in the park. Kachina is named for rock art/petroglyphs on its side that resemble the symbols commonly used on kachina dolls. Owachomo Bridge is the most accessible and most photographed natural bridge in the park. It is believed to be the oldest natural bridge of the three bridges. Owachomo means "rock mound," a feature atop the bridge's east abutment. NOTE: Pets are not allowed on this trail. The park also has a campground, picnic areas and a visitor center.