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  • Shelf Lake, Pike National Forest – Front Range, Colorado

    More people are getting into nature these days it seems. Especially at this time of pandemic when no one can travel far. There is a lot happening this year, so I don’t blame you if you want to get away from it all, even for a short time. Where else can you can go besides your backyard or out in nature. The best thing about Colorado is the abundance of nature and outdoor opportunities. One area you can go to is in Pike National Forest, named after Zebulon Montgomery Pike, an American brigadier and explorer. The Pike National Forest, located west of Colorado Springs, covers nearly 1,000,000 acres of public land. About 230,000 acres of this land are managed for recreational opportunities - hiking, fishing, camping, boating and cross-country skiing. In winter, we hike in the foothills, but in summer and fall we hike in the high mountains where the weather is cool. Besides that, the most amazing views, lakes and wildflowers can be found here. But as they say, “no pain, no gain,” it takes a little effort, more if you are not acclimated, but you will be rewarded in so many ways. - HIKING - So, if you are into hiking, one trail that is still not inundated with people is the Shelf Lake Trail, located in Clear Creek County. There’s a reason for why there are fewer hikers here. Parts of the road are rough and require a high clearance vehicle. When you arrive at the new trailhead it will be quite obvious unlike the old trailhead which was hard to find. There is a large parking area on the right side of the road with a kiosk telling you about the trails that start here. TO GET HERE From Denver to the trailhead is about 1½ hours drive via US 285, the shortest route, or two hours via I-70 and Guanella Pass. From 285, turn right onto Geneva/Guanella Pass Road, heading northwest. From Grant to the trailhead is about 9.8 miles, 26 minute-drive. At the fork in the road, follow the signs to Geneva Park Campground and then keep going to the trailhead. SHELF LAKE TRAIL – 7 to 9 miles round-trip Shelf Lake Trail starts at 10,000 feet. This trail is mostly uphill, and quite steep, so if you are not acclimated, it can be difficult. Shelf Lake Trail is one of the best hiking trails for finding wildflowers, not to mention the beautiful lake at the end of the trail. That’s why we keep coming back here. The best thing is, not a lot of foot traffic here. In fact, we found ourselves alone on two occasions. We hike here in summer time or autumn. The best time to to see the wildflowers at their peak is early August, but that also depends on mother nature, more precipitation means more wildflowers. The trail starts within the trees but it opens up soon enough as you climb higher. Then the trail gets interesting as you reach above tree level. The meadows are so colorful you might want to stay there and absorb the surroundings. We linger among the flowers obviously, taking dozens of pictures and simply absorbing the beauty of the place. We don't linger too much though, afternoon thunderstorms happens here. Weather in the high mountains can change suddenly; we got drenched by the rain one time on the way back down. There are a couple of switchbacks on the last stretch of the hike to the lake, but nothing major. You will be surprised as you reach the top. Shelf Lake is one of the best lakes we have seen in Colorado. Here, you will have a 360 degree view of the surrounding landscapes. One prominent mountain on the east side is the Square Top Mountain (13,794 feet). Behind that mountain are several other beautiful lakes, but that's on different trails. Shelf Lake is at about 12,000 feet. You only see part of it as it meanders out of sight. But from above you get a great view of the whole lake, as well as a different view of the surrounding landscapes. It adds some miles to your hike but it doesn't take that much extra effort. If you have time, and the weather is nice, you can fish in this lake. On the northeast side of Square Top Mountain (not in Pike National Forest), are two lakes - Murray Lake and Silver Dollar Lake reached by the Silver Dollar Lake Trail, in Arapaho National Forest. NEXT... SQUARE TOP LAKES, PIKE NATIONAL FOREST

  • Hiking near Ouray (Blue Lakes & Portland Creek Trail) – North San Juan Mountains, Colorado

    Ouray is in another part of Colorado where you can find not only beautiful historic mining towns but also fantastic hiking trails. Located in the heart of the San Juan Mountains (which form the southwestern part of Colorado’s Rocky Mountains), Ouray is sometimes called “The Outdoor Recreation Capital of Colorado”. It is also known as the Switzerland of America – there is a sign at the lookout point above town to confirm that claim. The mountains and canyons surrounding Ouray offer plenty of opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts, not just for hikers and climbers who want to summit Mount Sneffels, the 27th highest fourteener in Colorado. Coming to Ouray is essential during our Southwest Colorado road trips. One of these trips included visiting the historic town of Silverton, another beautiful historic mining town less than an hour drive from Ouray. We come here not only to hike but to explore the historic towns. We stayed at a camping cabin located between the towns of Ridgway and Ouray. Here, we met up with a couple of friends and hiked with each one on two separate hikes. One hike was the Blue Lakes Trail near Ridgway and the other was to the Chief Ouray Mine and the upper Portland Amphitheater in Ouray. TO GET HERE To get to Ouray from Denver is about a 5 hour and 30 minute drive, via U.S. Highway 285 going south and U.S. 50 going west. You can also drive via I-70 to Grand Junction, from where you can go south on U.S-50/550. Either way, you will find fantastic views along the way - the views get even better as you reach the mountains. Starting early is the best way to go since you will want to stop along the way. This is definitely not a one-day trip. Don’t forget to bring along your cameras because you will definitely need them. - HIKING TRAILS - BLUE LAKES TRAIL – 10 miles round trip There are many lakes named Blue Lake in Colorado, so make sure you are going to the right place. This Blue Lakes Trail is located in a glacial basin within the Mount Sneffels Wilderness area of the Uncompahgre National Forest. If you are staying in Ouray, from there to Blue Lakes Trailhead is about a 45-minute drive (24 miles) via U.S. Highway 550. Turn left to the town of Ridgway (State Highway 62), then west to County Road 7 (4.5 miles). At the end of this road is the trailhead to Blue Lakes, about 9 miles from SH 62. This trail takes you to three lakes and it’s your choice if you want to go all the way to the top and beyond or just to the lower lake. This is not an easy hike. The trail starts out moderate but becomes more strenuous, especially if you continue to the upper lakes. You will see plenty of beautiful wildflowers, amazing mountain views and lakes. I'll say, it is worth huffing and puffing to the top. Admiring the wildflowers along the trail gives you a good excuse to rest and catch your breath. They were at their peak when we were there. Before reaching the lower lake, you will pass a waterfall near the trail. Lower Blue Lake Lower Blue Lake, at an elevation of 10,924 feet, is the largest of the three lakes. Its beautiful turquoise water and the mountain backdrop creates an amazing landscape. I could stay there for hours just looking at the view. In fact, we came back here again on the way down from the Upper Blue Lake and stayed a while. Around Lower Blue Lake are several campsites where climbers to Mount Sneffels base their camp, as well as other campers who just wanted to commune with nature or catch some fat trout. Our friend decided to end his hike here while we continued on to the Upper Lake. Lower Blue Lake is impressive enough, but wait until you reach the Middle and Upper Blue Lakes. On the way up to Middle Blue Lake, you will see an aerial view of the Lower Blue Lake. It's color seems even more enhanced looking from above. Middle Blue Lake There's a steep ascent to the middle lake with loose rocks on part of the trail. Take time to stop and look around, the view is incredible everywhere you look above tree line. Middle Blue Lake is at about 11,525 feet. Upper Blue Lake From Middle Blue Lake to Upper Blue Lake is not that far and not quite as steep. Before you reach the Upper Blue Lake, look down to the Middle Blue Lake, the incredible view from there is exceptional. The Upper Blue Lake, with an elevation of 11,744 feet, sits in glacial basin at the foot of Mount Sneffels. All the huffing and puffing will prove worthwhile as you see the view from here. The pictures here speak for themselves. The trail does not end at Upper Blue Lake, it continues up to Blue Lakes Pass. Hermann would probably continue on all the way to Yankee Boy Basin on the other side of the pass, or even summit Mount Sneffels, if not for me. But I was content with the amazing views and gorgeous wildflowers at this lake. This must be the best lake and view I have ever hiked in Colorado. PORTLAND CREEK TRAIL-CHIEF OURAY MINE – 8 miles round trip This trail is just outside the town of Ouray. To get to the trailhead from the Million Dollar Highway, follow the Amphitheater Campground Road all the way to the end. The trail connects the Upper and Lower Cascade Creek Falls trails, Portland Creek Trail and the Portland Mine Road. For a shorter route to the Chief Ouray Mine/Upper Cascade Falls Trail, you can skip the Portland Creek Trail, but you will miss the view of the amphitheater. We took the longer route of course, hiking the Portland Creek Loop and then to Upper Cascade Falls Trail, almost to the end of the trail. Before completing the Portland Creek Loop Trail, you will find a junction on the trail. Here is your chance to either go back to where you started completing the loop, or take a longer hike to the Chief Ouray Mine, an abandoned lead mine at the end of the trail. The harder part of the trail begins from here. You will encounter a series of switchbacks to the top of the mountain ridge. The view from there is fantastic though. From the ridge, you will see Potosi Peak (13,786 feet), Whitehouse Mountain (13,492 feet), Teakettle Mountain (13,819 feet). Hermann decided to end our hike by the ridge. We saw a thunderstorm developing and didn’t want to get caught in the middle of it up high. We turned around retracing the Portland Creek Loop Trail rather than following the Cascade Creek Trails from the junction, which is shorter going back. Hence, we hiked about 8 miles. Below is the view from Upper Cascade Falls Trail, taken by Hermann during his previous hike here. The other one is an abandoned building at the Chief Ouray Mine.

  • Historic Town of Creede – Mineral County, Colorado

    The historic mining town of Creede is tucked into a scenic corner of the San Juan Mountains (the largest mountain range in Colorado), in Mineral County - in the Rio Grande Valley. The town is small but offers a lot of charm, so we make sure to stay and spend some time here before driving to Lake City. The town of Creede was once full of prospectors and miners, saloon keepers and “ladies of the evening”, but today it is a quiet little town with many of its Victorian houses restored. This is a place to get away from the busy life of the city. Visiting the underground mining museum and a 17-mile drive called the Bachelor Loop will give you a glimpse of what it was like in the old days. There are Forest Service Roads, 4-wheel drive and hiking trails in the area, popular throughout summer and late Fall. If you are into fishing, the Rio Grande is nearby. TO GET HERE To get to Creede from South Fork is 21 miles, about 25-minute drive via the Silverthread Scenic Byway/State Highway 149. Another is State Highway 149 coming from Gunnison via Lake City. From Denver it is about 256 miles via US Highway 285 going south - this is the shortest route. It can take you a while though, since there is plenty to see along the way. CREEDE, COUNTY SEAT OF MINERAL COUNTY Before it was called Creede, the first settlement here was known as "Willow", located at the base of the cliffs on West Willow Creek, a tributary of the Rio Grande. The area was once a hunting ground for Ute Indians before it became a Silver Mining boom town. After Nicholas Creede of Holy Moses Mine discovered a high-graded silver vein in East Willow Creek in 1890, the great rush began resulting in what was called "Creede Camp". Later, other mining claims discovered veins of other minerals such as Amethyst. The population in the area swelled, and with the mining boom, it attracted "colorful" characters - gambling, dance halls and saloons were built. Then the old and new parts of town were incorporated as Creede in 1892. Mineral County was incorporated on March 27, 1893 and Creede became the County Seat. The drop in the silver price in 1893 caused most mines to close. But despite the end of the silver boom, unlike many other mining towns throughout Colorado, Creede never became a ghost town. Mining for other minerals continued for many years after the Silver Panic. Today, Mineral County has a full time population of about 700. Half of them live in Creede. The residents are a mix of old mining and ranching families as well as newcomers; If you were not born in Mineral County, or even if you lived there for 30 years, you are still called newcomers. The population in Creede increases during summer season to around 4,000. Creede is not a resort town, although there is a spa if you just happened to need a "pedi" or "mani" after exploring the area. There is only one gas station and no traffic signal as well. If you are looking for modern conveniences, you will not find them here. But the town became known for its rich history, and with restored buildings, it now has a charming atmosphere, good restaurants, nice shops and galleries. Also, the town was voted Colorado's Top Art Town in 2010. MINING IN CREEDE Creede was the last town in 19th century Colorado to join the silver boom. The discovery of silver in 1869 did not immediately start a boom since the silver could not be profitably extracted from the ore at that time. It was another 20 years before the real boom started, with the discovery of rich minerals in Willow Creek Canyon upstream of the present town site - near where the original Creede was located. The silver boom in Creede lasted until 1893. At that time Creede "enjoyed" a shady underworld of crime resulting from legal reform against gambling clubs and saloons in Denver, which many of the affected business owners simply relocated to the central business district of Creede. Ultimately, on June 5, 1892, a major fire destroyed most of the town's business district, and eight days later Denver's anti-gambling reform ended and the business owners returned to Denver. A year later, the Silver Panic hit all of the mining towns in Colorado, causing the price of silver to plummet and most silver mines to close. However, Creede managed to stay alive for many more years by relying on other minerals such as lead and zinc, which continued until 1985. This might explain why many of the old mining buildings outside of town remained in such "good" repair. The Creede District has yielded over 84 million ounces of silver (produced from nearly 5 million tons of ore), plus substantial amount of lead, zinc, copper and gold. NOTE: Make sure to visit North Clear Creek Falls located halfway between Creede and Lake City.

  • Historic Town of Lake City - Hinsdale County, Colorado

    Lake City is a charming historic town tucked away in one of the most remote areas of Colorado. It is the only town in the county of Hinsdale which has four wilderness areas and two wilderness study areas. Designated as a National Historic District in 1978, the town boasts 200 historic Victorian structures. In visiting the town, you can get a glimpse of the past during the height of the mining boom in the 19th century. Visiting Hinsdale County is not only about Lake City, the second largest natural lake in the state is found here, the Lake San Cristobal. Also, the area has hundreds of miles of hiking and off-road trails. The county is home to some spectacular waterfalls - North Clear Creek Falls, Whitmore Falls, Nellie Creek Falls (four-wheel drive access only) and Horseshoe Falls, and plenty of beautiful scenic byways. You can't just stay for one day. We stay here when exploring the area and when hiking in the American Basin. TO GET HERE Lake City is located in the San Juan Mountains (the largest mountain range in Colorado), in the southwestern part of the state. It's about 55 miles south of Gunnison via the Silverthread Scenic Byway/State Highway 149 - 74 miles north of South Fork. If you are coming from Denver, it will take you about 265 miles of driving. Note: To make it worth your while when visiting the area, if on a road trip, you can start from Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, then stop and visit the historic town of Creede (also a nice town to stay), then continue to the historic town of Lake City. BROWN LAKES/RIO GRANDE OVERLOOK Following the State Highway 149, there are places worth stopping by, so don't hurry to reach your destination. The overlook before the North Creek Falls has a splendid view of Brown Lakes/Rio Grande Valley. The high mountains you will see here are the Rio Grande Pyramid ( 13,819 feet) and Simpson Mountain (12,904 feet). NORTH CLEAR CREEK FALLS A short distance from the overlook is the North Clear Creek Falls, hidden just beyond the road, about a half mile off the highway. It is easily missed since it is hidden below a small ravine in the middle of the valley. This is the most photographed waterfall in Colorado - one reason probably is due to its easy access and paved trail to the overlook. No need to hike here. SLUMGULLION PASS Past the North Clear Creek Waterfall, you will drive over Slumgullion Pass. It is a scenic high mountain pass in Hinsdale County - the sign at the highest point of the road reflects the elevation of the summit (11,530 feet. The pass is named for the nearby Slumgullion Earthflow, a massive landslide from Mesa Seco which began about 850 years ago. The massive slide (4-miles long and covering over 1,000 acres), blocked the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River and created Lake San Cristobal. Another slide began about 300 years ago and according to the United States Geologic Survey, it is still moving as much as twenty feet a year. How in the world did they come up with the name of the mountain pass? The early settlers and miners at that time must have been hungry. The yellowish soil reminded them of slumgullion stew, hence the name. It means "everything but the kitchen sink" dish. It is an ancient meal that goes way back to between the 4th to 8th centuries, a poor man's meal. LAKE SAN CRISTOBAL Near Lake City is the second largest natural lake in Colorado, Lake San Cristobal. The lake is 2.1 miles long and 89 feet deep. You can go fishing or boating here. This lake is stocked with rainbow trout. Lake City has been discovered as a hunting and fishing destinations in the 1940's. Many Texans come here in summer so that the town was nicknamed "Little Texas". Indeed, we saw camping sites full of humongous RV's with Texas flags on them. LAKE CITY'S NATIONAL HISTORIC DISTRICT Lake City was once a mining boom town. In the 19th century, the town was the center for supply for many miners and prospectors working in the nearby San Juan mountains. Exploring the town today, you can imagine what it was like during the height of mining days in the area. The restored houses and wooden sidewalks are reminiscent of the Old West. The only missing things are the miners, cowboys and their horses. Half of the town of Lake City is designated as a National Historic District. Lake City is a quiet town. There are no traffic lights. This is not a resort town but an off the beaten track town, but there are fine restaurants, so you won't get hungry. No shortage of gift shops either. Who is Alferd Packer? You will probably be curious as to who he was, if you haven't heard the story yet. Now, that is one interesting story involving a man accused of cannibalism. It was one of the most notorious events that happened in Colorado history. There is even a saloon named after him. If you are interested you can visit the Alferd Packer Massacre Site, just off SH-149 southeast of Lake City. There is a memorial to Packer's victims at the site and interpretative panels about the story. MINING IN LAKE CITY Mining was what made the town. Outside of Lake City, you will find relics of the mining industry. Ore was first discovered here in 1871, but was not exploited until after the Ute Indians ceded the land. Shortly after, gold and silver ore was found. In 1874, the first log cabin was built at the site that would later become Lake City. WHITMORE FALLS Whitmore Falls is another beautiful waterfall, located just off the Engineer Pass Road (also known as the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway) near Capitol City, a ghost town once named "Galena City" (the last time we were there, the whole town was for sale). The Whitmore Falls observation point is a short hike off the road but it is well worth your while if you hike down to the base of the waterfalls. It's a short but steep trail with loose rocks so you have to be careful. NOTE: In spring, immerse yourselves in the wonderful and colorful Wildflowers in American Basin. While in the surrounding area the Historic Town of Creede. is also worth visiting.

  • Wildflowers in American Basin – Hinsdale County, Colorado

    Who doesn't get excited seeing wildflowers in full bloom? That is one thing we always look forward to in summer in the high mountains of Colorado. One of the places to see an abundance of them is in the American Basin near Lake City. This place is well known for its incredible display of alpine wildflowers which are usually at their peak from mid-July to early August. Finding wildflowers is one of the perks of hiking in summer, even more so if you find the landscape covered with them, such as in the photo below. AMERICAN BASIN American Basin is located in Gunnison National Forest in the San Juan Mountains. It is a high alpine basin surrounded by high cliffs on the west and mountain peaks on the east and south, reaching from over thirteen thousand feet to over fourteen thousand feet (White Cross Mountain (13,542 feet) and Handies Peak (14,048 feet) on the east, and American Peak (13,806 feet) on the south). TO GET HERE There are different ways to reach American Basin, either from the towns of Ouray, Silverton or Lake City. We stay at Lake City which is 22 miles away, via county road 30. Outside of Lake City, you will pass the second largest natural lake in Colorado, Lake San Cristobal. This lake is 2.1 miles long and 89 feet deep. Here’s an activity you can do if hiking is not your thing. You can spend the day, or two, fishing or boating in this lake, it is stocked with rainbow trout. Driving to American Basin is not for the faint of heart. The road meanders on the side of a deep ravine in some areas. The photo here shows part of the road. As you can see, driving a 4-wheel drive and high clearance vehicle is best. This is a rough road, especially as you get closer to American Basin. NOTE: For those who want to climb fourteeners, the Sunshine South Trailhead and Grizzly Gulch Trailhead are also along this road. You will pass these trailheads before you reach the American basin. Hermann climbed several fourteeners here but not on this trip. So, to reach the trail to Handies Peak or to Sloan Lake, you will cross Lake Fork of the Gunnison River - below you can see a couple of 4-wheelers crossing the river (just a mountain creek at this elevation). You don't have to cross it if you don't have the required vehicle, you can park before the crossing, but that will add some distance to your hike. Not much though, just about a half mile. ON THE TRAIL Even at the beginning of the trail, you will get distracted by the wildflowers. Add the stream and mountain landscape to the view and it is just a perfect scene mother nature offers anyone who comes here. You can't blame us for stopping often along the trail. Who can resist an amazing landscape like this? What can I say. Our hike was cut short because we spent a lot of time photographing these wildflowers. We didn't want to get caught in an afternoon thunderstorm which is typical in the high mountains. We went as far as the little waterfalls we found off the trail. I didn't get to see Sloan Lake, but I don't mind. To better view the wildflowers, I compiled some of the best photos we took and created a short video. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. Check it out. NOTE: If you are staying in the surrounding area, make sure to visit Whitmore Falls. Also, just in case you missed it, halfway between the Historic Town of Creede and the Historic Town of Lake City is the North Clear Creek Falls, the most photographed waterfall in Colorado.

  • Canyonlands National Park - Utah

    Utah is known for its “Mighty Five Parks”- Arches National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Canyonlands National Park and Zion National Park. Each has its own unique and dramatic desert features. You might visit not just once but many times and absolutely not just for a day. Canyonlands National Parks is known for its beautiful desert landscape, with elevations ranging from 3,700 to 7,200 feet above sea level. The park is huge; in fact, it is the largest national park in Utah and it encompasses some of the most remote terrain in the lower 48 states. TO GET HERE If you are visiting Arches National Park in Moab, then Canyonlands National Park is just 32 miles farther away from town. By following UT 313 , it will take you to the Island in the Sky, the closest area of the park from Arches. It's less than an hour drive from Moab, if you don’t stop along the way - why wouldn't you? There are viewpoints along the way worth stopping at for taking pictures . THE PARK Located in the heart of Utah’s high desert, Canyonlands National Park preserves 337,598 acres of canyons, mesas, buttes, fins, arches and spires. The park was established in 1964, advocated by Arches National Monument (Now Arches National Park) Superintendent Bates Wilson, and signed by President Lyndon B. Johnson. Canyonlands National Park is divided into three distinct and different regions: The Island in the Sky in the north; the Needles in the southeast corner of the park, and the Maze in the western part. These are defined by the two large rivers – Colorado River and the Green River - which separate the regions from each other by virtue of two deep canyons. The two rivers are in effect a fourth district due to their unique recreational aspects. The geologic history of Canyonlands is complex and evolved over millions of years of sedimentary deposits, evaporation, erosion and eons of geologic action. Water, wind and gravity also help in forming incredible canyons and countless rock formations. In Canyonlands, there are many viewpoints accessible by car involving just a short walk from the parking lot. Mesa Arch, Upheaval Dome, Candlestick Tower, and Grand View Point are some of the notable features in the Island in the Sky district. The park also has hundreds of miles of hiking trails, from short walks and day hikes to strenuous backpacking trips. The Colorado and Green Rivers pass through the park, although the Green ends at its confluence with the Colorado. The rivers are ideal for water adventures, especially whitewater rafting. Native American rock arts in the Horse Shoe Canyon are noted here as well. You might wonder what are the red and black coatings you see on the cliffs. Sometimes they look like melted chocolate poured over a cake and dripping over the side. It is called "desert varnish"; it’s a thin layer composed of clay and other materials including manganese and iron. Black varnish is rich in manganese while red/orange color indicates the presence of iron. Desert varnish forms mostly on stable rock surfaces. - ISLAND IN THE SKY - The Island in the Sky is the most visited area of the park since it has the easiest access. It is also closest to Moab. The mesa rests on sheer sandstone cliffs over 1,000 feet above the surrounding terrain. Hermann and I have visited this park on our own and with family. We did not do any strenuous hikes here (although Hermann has done some of those in years past). We did what typical visitors do, which is taking short hikes to viewpoints and simply exploring by car. MESA ARCH - 0.5 miles Mesa Arch is located on a cliff edge with dramatic views. The sun rising behind it makes this arch popular for photographers wanting to catch the spectacular early morning view. You can imagine, it can be very crowded at sunrise. But we are not early risers so pardon this "not so spectacular" photo of Mesa Arch. This trail is short but rough with rocky hills and stone steps. It is not wheelchair accessible. From here, you can see White Rim Road below. If you have a four-wheel drive, you can drive the 100 mile loop road. It will take about two to three days but if you have time it will be worth the experience. GRAND VIEW - 2 miles Grand View Point is located at the southernmost point of the Island in the Sky scenic drive. From the viewpoint near the parking area you can see the White Rim and distant mountains. If that is not enough view for you, a one-mile hike can take you to the second viewpoint at the end of the trail. UPHEAVAL DOME - 3 miles Upheaval Dome is a quite unique formation of rock layers are formed into a circular mass or anticline. There are two theories about its strange formation. One is a result of a “salt bubble”, rising to the surface creating salt domes, while the other theory is a result of meteorites colliding with the earth leaving a crater. There is a short but steep trail to the Upheaval Dome overlook and there is an exhibit about this unique geologic feature. To the second overlook is another mile, resulting in a round-trip hike of three miles. OTHER AREAS IN THE PARK TO EXPLORE: The Needles, with some serious hiking and four-wheel-driving. It was named for the colorful spires of Cedar Mesa Sandstone. There are over 60 miles of hiking trails and about 50 miles of backcountry roads; The Maze, however, is mainly for backpacking due to its challenging remote location. You can also visit Horseshoe Canyon (it requires driving on unpaved roads), which contains some of the most significant rock art in North America. The canyon features well-preserved American Indian rock art. The most spectacular one is the Great Gallery, a life-sized figure rock arts panel - pictographs (painted) and petroglyphs (etched in rock). To reach this rock art requires hiking, about seven-miles round trip. SHAFER CANYON ROAD If you have a four-wheel drive and are not afraid of heights, then you might want to try driving on Shafer Canyon Road. It's an 18 mile off-road experience. They filmed the movie "Thelma and Louise" here where they drove their car off the cliff. Commercials and videos have also been filmed here. The Shafer Trail road was once a mining road built by uranium miners in the middle of the 20th century. As you can see, driving here is not for the faint of heart. There are no guard rails here and there is no turning back once you start. CRYPTOBIOTIC SOIL This is something to watch out for when exploring the Canyonlands. You might not notice or know it, but Cryptobiotic Soil is all over the place in Utah. It plays a very important role in the desert's ecosystem. We didn't know the importance of it until we took a guided tour of Fiery Furnace at Arches National Park. Since then we have been very careful about where we walk while hiking in the desert. What is Cryptobiotic Soil? Cryptobiotic soil is a biological crust composed of microscopic living organisms, cyanobacteria, among the oldest known life forms on earth. It includes green algae, fungi, lichens and mosses. These soil crusts are commonly found in arid regions around the world. Cryptobiotic soil stabilizes the sand and promotes moisture retention and helps prevent wind erosion. It will be crunchy if you step on it, which promotes a temptation to step on more. Don't even try. It can take centuries to recover. NOTE: If you are visiting Canyonlands National Park, it is worth visiting Dead Horse Point State Park as well. It is not part of the national park and requires a separate admission fee, but you will see an amazing panoramic view of the Canyonlands, with the Colorado River below. Some say that this view is grander than even the Grand Canyon.

  • Devils Tower National Monument – Crook County, Wyoming

    Wyoming is home to some of the most fascinating national parks and monuments - Grand Teton National Park, Yellowstone National Park (the first national park in the world), as well as Devils Tower National Monument, the country's first national monument. This monument, located in the northeast corner of Wyoming, is one of a kind, mysterious and unique. Where can you find a magnificent tower in the middle of a somewhat flat plains landscape? The tower definitely dominates the landscape, protruding high above everything else so that you can see it even from afar. This is nature's skyscraper. Seeing the tower from afar is of course not good enough. We had to see it up close and personal, not intimately close as climbers do, but close enough to see some of the details of the tower. Before reaching the park, you will pass colonies of prairie dogs. They might be cute, but they can carry diseases, so just admire their antics from afar and don't go near them. Don't try poking in the hole of a prairie dog either, this might be an abandoned hole and a rattlesnake or black widow spider might be residing inside. THE PARK Devils Tower is the first designated National Monument in the United States. It was established on September 24, 1906, by President Theodore Roosevelt under the terms of the Antiquities Act. The name Devils Tower was a mistranslated native name “Bad God’s Tower". It was named as such in 1875 during an expedition led by Colonel Richard Irving Dodge. Intentional or not, the name remains today. Irving described the tower as “one of the most remarkable peaks in this or any country.” It reaches a height of 867 feet above the surrounding terrain. NATIVE AMERICAN TRIBES Many indigenous peoples of the region had connections with the area around Devils Tower, including Arapaho, Crow, Cheyenne, Shoshone, Lakota. Devils Tower is a sacred and holy place to the tribes. It has always been a gathering place, a refuge and a place of community, not only for native people but also for local ranchers. Even today, native tribes still use the park for traditional ceremonies. Native American tribes have their own stories and legends on the formation of Devil's Tower. The referred to the tower by different names, “Matho Thipila” or “Bear Lodge" in Lakota, “Tree Rock" in Kiowa, and many others. Each tribe has their own oral history. Different scenarios but representing the same legendary character, a bear. DEVILS TOWER In reality, Devils Tower, a natural monolith that rises above the surrounding terrain, is an intrusion of igneous rock (liquid rock that forms under the earth’s surface) or plutonic rock, formed through cooling and solidification of magma or lava. There are several theories as to how Devils Tower was formed, including the theory that it was the remains of a once large explosive volcano. The landscape surrounding the Devils Tower is composed of mostly sedimentary rock. The tower did not emerge until the overlaying sedimentary rock eroded, and the softer sandstone and shale survived. The vertical basalt monolith formed when molten rock intruded into overlying sedimentary rock and cooled into columns, then shrank thus developing cracks. CLIMBING THE TOWER We are not climbers, just hikers. But if you are, most probably you have either climbed the tower or are planning to climb it. Hiking the loop at Devils Tower you will find climbers either preparing to climb it or on their way up. Like this one in the photo - Hermann really zoomed in to take a good picture of this. The hundreds of parallel cracks in the tower makes it the finest traditional crack climbing in North America. The first recorded climbers who reached the top of the tower did it in 1893, over ten years before the establishment of the park as a national monument. Two ranchers, Willard Ripley and William Rogers, who lived near the area constructed a simple stake ladder to climb the tower. Their accomplishment began a long history of climbing the Devils Tower. Visitors can still see the remnants of this ladder today. Later, a new tradition of climbing without the use of a ladder was accomplished. In 1937, a group of rock climbers led by German-American climber, Fritz Wiessner, together with Lawrence Coveney and William House, pioneered the route to the top - the Weissner route which remains one of the popular routes today. Less than a year after Weissner, another climber, Jack Durrance, discovered an easier route. Today the route is known as “Durrance Route”, the most popular climbing route on the tower. Native Americans objected to people climbing the tower, but an agreement was reached that bans climbing during the month of June when the tribes are conducting ceremonies, rituals and prayers around the monument. Not everyone respects this, but most climbers honor this voluntary ban. WEATHERING & EROSION Surrounding the base of the Devils Tower is lots of rubble, massive rocks and fragments of columns that have broken off due to frost wedging, a process of water seeping in to the cracks, then freezing and expansion forcing the rock apart. Weathering from wind, gravity and precipitation also slowly erodes the tower and in time it will be a mound of rubble. - HIKING TRAILS - If you are not a climber and just want to experience the uniqueness of the place, there are four hiking trails in Devils Tower National Monument - Tower Trail, Red Beds Trail, Joyner Ridge Trail, South Side/Valley View Trails. These are all easy and connected loop trails from 1.3 to 2.8 mile hikes. Tower Trail is even paved. The hike provides different views and perspectives of the tower. Along the trail, you might find trees with pieces of cloth hanging on tree branches. These are prayer cloths and represent the spiritual connections many tribes have with the tower. It is advised for visitors not to disturb or remove them. It is also considered insensitive to take photographs of them.There are benches along the trail with interpretative panels about the natural and cultural history of the park. BELLE FOURCHE RIVER Belle Fourche, meaning "Pretty Forks", refers to the two rivers, Red Water River and Belle Fourche (pronounced belFOOSH) River, that join together. It was named by a French fur trapper in the 1700's, but to the Lakota tribes, it is known as the "Sun Dance River". It is said that the rivers were much larger millions of years ago and carved most of the landscape in the area, exposing Devils Tower. Belle Fourche River, which begins in the northeast of Wyoming, flows about 290 miles to the Cheyenne River in western South Dakota. The creation of a dam and reservoir in the 1950's greatly decreased the flow of this river and the absence of spring floods created long-term impact to the ecosystem. RED CLIFFS & YELLOW SILTSTONE The red sandstone cliffs above the river are part of the park. You will see these geologic formations by hiking the Red Beds and Joyner Ridge Trails. The cliffs have layers of gray shale, yellow sandstone and red sandstone which encircles the Black Hills region for 500 miles. WHERE TO STAY There are camping sites at the park with grill, picnic table and potable water. You can also stay at the KOA campground as well, located just outside the park, which is where we stayed. There are cabins along the Belle Fourche River as well as views of the Devils Tower. How can you beat that? We were here early spring so the place was really quiet. OTHER PLACES TO EXPLORE IN THE AREA

  • Mesa Verde National Park - Montezuma County, Colorado

    Colorado contains four incredibly beautiful and diverse national parks - Rocky Mountain National Park, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, and Mesa Verde National Park. Three national parks are all about nature, featuring unique landscapes and mountains of Colorado. However, Mesa Verde National Park is about cultural heritage of America. This park contains some of the most unique dwellings in the world, built by the Ancestral Puebloan people. There are more than 4,000 Archaeological sites in the park and 600 of these are cliff dwellings. THE PARK Mesa Verde National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Montezuma County in southwestern Colorado. The park was established in 1906 under President Theodore Roosevelt to protect and preserve the ancient ruins on top of the mesa, and the cliff dwellings built by the Ancestral Puebloan people, also known as the Anazasi. The area was the home for over 700 years (600 to 1300 CE) of the Puebloans. TO GET TO THE PARK If you are coming from Denver International Airport, driving to Mesa Verde National Park will take about seven hours. That is without stopping of course, but who drives that long without stopping? Especially when there is plenty to see along the way. You can make a little detour to Great Sand Dunes National Park and stay the night before continuing on to Mesa Verde National Park if you have time. When we visited this park we stayed at a KOA in the town of Cortez. It's like camping in comfort, sleeping in a cabin and not in a tent, but still having the feeling of being outdoors. Plus, we had a fantastic view of the mountain while we ate our dinner. From the town it is just about 10 miles, or 13 minutes drive to Mesa Verde National Park. You can stay the night in the park. There are lodges and campsites that you can stay if you want to experience true camping surrounded by nature instead of people and traffic. - EXPLORING THE PARK - ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES ON TOP OF THE MESA On the mesa itself, there are archaeological sites that can be visited: Badger House Community, Cedar Tree Tower, Far View Sites Complex, Sun Temple. This we visited on our own, driving from site to site. Visiting these archaeological sites, you will get a glimpse of how Puebloan dwellings evolved, from building underground to building above the ground in multi-storied structures. CLIFF DWELLINGS FROM THE VIEWPOINTS The canyons on the mesa were created by erosion from receding ancient oceans. Looking at the canyons of Mesa Verde, who would have thought that there lie hidden ancient settlements? How they made use of these uninhabitable surroundings makes you think about the peoples' resilience and adaptability. Within these canyons, there are over 600 cliff dwellings made of adobe and built within the shallow caves and overhangs of the canyon walls. The dwellings here are some of the best preserved on the North American Continent. It was an amazing discovery. From the viewpoints you can hardly see some of them since they are far away, but some are close enough that you can see the structures in detail. For most visitors, viewing the cliff dwellings at viewpoints is enough of an adventure. Understandable since hiking at 7,000 feet elevation is not for everybody, trails are steep with steps and ladders to consider. But hiking down to the cliff dwellings is a different experience altogether. You get to see up close the fascinating architecture of these settlements and wonder at the ingenuity of the people who built them. HIKING DOWN TO THE CLIFF DWELLINGS In visiting the cliff dwellings we opted for a guided tour at one of them, to get a glimpse about the history of the dwellings and the settlers as well. In the park, there are five cliff dwellings that can be visited – Balcony House, Cliff Palace, Long House, Spruce Tree House, Step House. We only toured a few, but it was enough to be awed by them. Looking at the dwellings underneath the canopy you will wonder why they chose to build there. After living on top of the mesa for 600 years why did the Ancient Puebloans begin living beneath the overhanging cliffs, sometime during the late 1190's? They farmed on the mesa, but they lived in the canyon’s alcoves, building and constructing for nearly a century, until they abandoned the settlement. The question is why? THE ANCESTRAL PUEBLOAN PEOPLE Ancestral Puebloan Indians inhabited the southwestern portion of Colorado for more than a millennium, before A.D. 1 until about A.D. 1280. They were the descendants of nomadic people; they were hunters and gatherers. Later on they adopted an agricultural subsistence and gradually developed a sedentary culture and built homes. Then they became farmers, cultivating maize (corn), beans and squash, subsisting on wild plants. They raised domesticated turkeys as well as hunted wild game. The population peaked with an estimated 20,000 sometime during the early or middle A.D. 1200's. The challenging environment in southwestern Colorado, fluctuating weather conditions, depleting wild game and periods of drought (particularly the severe drought in A.D. 1276), impacted the settlement in Mesa Verde. Violence escalated as the settlers competed for resources and by early A.D. 1280’s, survivors migrated south or southeast and never came back, leaving behind the dwellings that we can see today. Their descendants reside in some twenty pueblo settlements in northeastern Arizona and northern Mexico today. Ancient Puebloans left behind some evidence of how their society survived in Mesa Verde, what they ate and what kinds of tools they used. METATE & MANO Metate, a kind of mealing or grinding stone, is a larger stationary bottom stone, while Mano, Spanish for “hand”, is a hand-held and much smaller stone used to grind grains against the larger stone, the Metate. Both tools were used as a mill for grinding seeds and beans during the ancient times. Metate and Mano have different shapes, sizes and materials, but most are made from Vesicular basalt, granite, sandstone, conglomerates and other local stones. KIVA A Kiva is a sacred underground chamber used by Native American Pueblo males for religious rituals and spiritual ceremonies (such as smoking and drinking?). The ceremonies were associated with their Kachina ("spirit father") beliefs. Kivas have been built in many different sizes; some were built above ground. Their functions and architecture were adapted to suit their cultural changes and religious and social practices. Kivas are usually round, with a roof built out of wooden logs; their walls were built with adobe (a mixture of water, dirt and straw), and stones. Kivas are entered through a roof hatchway by means of a wooden ladder, with poles that extend above the flat roof and hand rails of sorts. We got to see what it looks like inside of one.

  • Hiking in Oberstdorf - Bavaria, Germany

    Hiking in the Alps is very different than here in the United States. Riding a gondola or cable car up to the mountains is typical - it allows quicker access to the most scenic areas, giving hikers many opportunities to go from there. Of course, if you want a much longer hike, the trails begin at the bottom too. A typical way is to ride to the top, hike all over the place and then hike back down to the bottom. That's what we did. OBERSTDORF The town of Oberstdorf is a skiing and hiking destination in the Bavarian Alps. Located in the Allgäu region of Bavaria, it is the southernmost and one of the highest towns in Germany. The hiking opportunities around here are almost limitless. There are so many trails that it would take an avid hiker years to complete them all. Many hikes are simple trails that require no technical skills - yet the area has some very extreme climbs as well. Hiking here you will find beautiful panoramic views of the Alps as well as the villages down in the valleys. SUMMIT CROSS Hiking here, almost all mountains will have a summit cross on top of the peaks. These are found mostly in the catholic regions of the Alps, mainly Austria and southern Germany (Bavaria). In the 16th century, these crosses were erected to mark alpine pastures and municipal boundaries, but in the 17th century they gained religious importance. In later years, crosses were also erected in memory of the fallen heroes during the world wars. Hikers tend to congregate here, to rest, enjoy the view or have lunch. Churches also perform services at some of these sites during special occasions or holidays. MOUNTAIN RESTAURANTS So, what do you think of having hot meals, or cold meals, in the middle of a hiking trip? In the Alps there are numerous mountain restaurants serving a great variety of good German foods. I really loved the sausage salad. Some offer only very basic meals such as bread and sausage or cheese, while others serve some pretty substantial hot meals. Many of these mountain "huts" also provide overnight accommodations. Some of these places can be reached by car (but only for those who work there - no private cars are allowed), while others can only be reached by hiking. Yet even those provide some pretty good services (many of these will be supplied by cable lifts). Best of all, from Hermann's point of view, is that they ALL serve that great German beer. No need to bring sandwiches when hiking in most areas of the Alps. It's great to just sit down and enjoy great views while eating good German food. What a good way to hike! There is no shortage of fine German beer for thirsty hikers, who drink it in enormous quantities. Beer is after all a major part of Germany's culture and Bavaria is the leading producer of it. They created the "Bavarian Beer Purity Law" for making beer and Germany has over 1,200 breweries. One thing I can say, you can drink beer without getting sick from bacteria. WILDFLOWERS One flower that I was so fascinated finding on the trail is this silver-colored sunflower. I thought at first that it was a dried-up flower. I hadn't seen anything like it before. It's called Silver Thistle or stemless Carline - a fitting name since it grows so close to the ground. It is native to alpine regions of central and southern Europe. CATTLE ON THE TRAIL, NOT WILDLIFE So, I'm used to seeing wildlife by the trails when hiking in Colorado, but not on here in the Alps. Here you will encounter cows, lots of them! A different hiking experience definitely. No need to bring bear spray. Herders let loose their cows here in the beginning of summer or late spring to benefit from the herbs and healthy grasses in the alpine meadows. Each of these cows has a bell around its neck, the small version that is. The herders will bring these cattle down to the village for the festivals in the fall - what they call "Viehscheid", or Cattle Drive, a Bavarian tradition which is celebrated every year. Different cow bells are used for this occasion, big ones with ornaments, (see photo below). We did three hikes in Oberstdorf. One we did on the border between Germany and Austria, the other two in Bolsterlang and Breitach Gorge (Breitachklamm).

  • Dunguaire Castle - Kinvara, County Galway, Ireland

    After visiting some incredible ancient sites (Caherconel, Stone Fort, Poulnabrone) in the Burren Region in County Clare, we visited the Dunguaire Castle in Kinvara, County Galway. The village of Kinvara, located in the southern shores of Galway Bay, was once a thriving port. Kinvara, meaning "The Head of the Sea", is the gateway to the Burren in County Clare. We came from the Burren, about 30 minute driveto Kinvara. It is said that Dunguaire Castle is the most photographed castle in Ireland. We just had to see it if it is indeed as picturesque as they say. We found out why it is popular. Dunguarie Castle (Irish - Dún Guaire) is conveniently located on the southeastern shore of Galway Bay practically right beside the road. It indeed has a picturesque setting. Castles and water go well together don't they? A perfect photo composition that everyone wants to capture, professional or not. There is something romantic about it, not to mention mythical, depending on how you look at it. Dunguaire Castle was first built in 1520 by the Hynes clan, and is believed to be on the site of an old palace of the legendary king of Connacht, Guaire Aidhne. Very little is known of the history of the castle while under the Hynes clan's ownership. But in the 17th century, the English took the castle and gifted it to Oliver Martyn, an “Old Norman” who had shown loyalty to the crown. Then in 1924, writer/surgeon Oliver St. John Gogarty purchased Dunguaire Castle. It was used as a retreat and meeting place for Irish literary greats such as W. B. Yates, George Bernard Shaw, Sean O’Casey, among others. Later on it was acquired in 1954 by Christobel Lady Amphill before it was turned over to an Irish corporation managing historic sites. We skipped touring the castle, as we were flying to Scotland later that day and we wanted to have enough time to drive to the airport just in case we got held up in the traffic. NOTE: In summer, if you are staying in Kinvara and have time, the castle hosts dinner banquets and entertainment (Irish literature and Irish traditional music). It's a medieval-type banquet held each night throughout summer.

  • Sequoia National Park – California, U. S. A.

    The state of California has nine national parks and contains some of the most stunning, incredibly fascinating, and diverse natural wonders the world has to offer. One fascinating national park in California is Sequoia National Park. This gigantic Sequoia trees are the highlights of the park. You will be awed standing beside these cinnamon-colored trees. How can you not? They are the third longest-lived tree species and were already standing here as long as 2,000 to 3,000 years ago. THE PARK Sequoia National Park contains a significant segment of the Sierra Nevada, a mountain range in the western United States a vast majority of which is located in the state of California. This mountain range is also home to two other national parks - Yosemite National Park and Kings Canyon National Park. Sequoia National Park is located in the southern Sierra Nevada east of the San Joaquin Valley. The “God of the Woods”, according to John Muir, is the second national park in the United States. It was designated a national park by President Benjamin Harrison on September 25, 1890 to protect one of the world’s largest and oldest tree species from logging. This is the first park created to protect a living organism. John Muir wrote of the giant sequoia. "I never saw a Big Tree that had died a natural death. Barring accidents they seem to be immortal, being exempt from all diseases that afflict and kill other trees. Unless destroyed by man, they live on indefinitely until burned, smashed by lightning, or cast down by storms, or by the giving way of the ground on which they stand." The park is also home to the tallest mountain in the lower 48 states, Mount Whitney with an elevation of 14,505 feet. The vast majority of the park is wilderness, supporting diverse vascular plant species, sugar pine, ponderosa pine, foxtail, white barks, as well as wild animals such as black bears, peregrine falcons and types of blue birds. Sequoia National Park was first home to the "Monachee" (Western Mono) Native Americans. Pictographs can be found at several sites within the park, as well as mortars used to process acorns, a staple food for the Monachee people. TO GET TO THE PARK When we visited this park, we stayed in the town of Three Rivers. From there the Sierra Drive (198) road becomes the General’s Highway (198) as you enter the park at the southern entrance, the Ash Mountain Entrance. Past the Visitors Center, your first stop in the park will probably be at the Tunnel Rock. It was our first stop, of course. This tunnel was the original route through the park before big vehicles were invented;it was dug by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930's - back then they did not anticipate the big cars of the future. To increase tourism, the park-to-park highway was built connecting Sequoia and Kings Canyon (formerly Grant National Park). The newly named Generals Highway was dedicated on June 23, 1935. The road was named after two Giant Sequoias found in Sequoia and Kings Canyon national parks, the General Sherman Tree and the General Grant Tree. If you are camping, up ahead is the Potwisha Campground and information center. From this campground you can hike to Marble Falls. Continuing on Generals Highway past the Potwisha campground is the Hospital Rock Picnic Area and Hospital Rock Trailhead/Middle Fork Trail. From the road, it is 0.6-mile to Buckeye Flat Campground. SWITCHBACK ROAD From Hospital Rock Picnic Area to the Giant Forest is a half-hour drive. Stop along the way at several viewpoints as you drive the switchback road. Vehicles longer than 22 feet are not recommended to use this road, between Potwisha Campground and Giant Forest. The road is narrow, winding and steep, you have to be really careful driving this road, 10mph is recommended on some of the curves. THE SEQUOIA TREES The Sequoia tree (Sequoiadendron giganteum) is found only in the western part of Sierra Nevada, growing at an elevation between 5,000 and 8,000 feet. They have a very specific climate requirement which is dry summers and cold, snowy winters. They can live for over 3,000 years and can grow up to 180 to 250 feet high - as high as 26-story building, with a diameter of 20 to 26 feet. A single branch can grow 50 feet long. By volume, a single tree has enough lumber to build 35 homes. In the 19th century, the Sequoia trees were ripe for the taking. Unfortunately, many ended up as fence posts, shingles and matchsticks. Giant Sequoia trees splinter easily and are not suited for use as timber. Thousands of trees were felled before logging operations were stopped, the year the National Park Service incorporated the Giant Forest into Sequoia National Park in 1890. THE IMPORTANCE OF FIRE IN SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK The importance of fire in the ecosystem in Sequoia National Park is crucial. In Sequoia forests, there are fire scars in the tree rings dating back to 2,000 years. It shows that fires have occurred naturally in the area. Sequoias are adapted to periodic fire. So, prescribed burning started in Sequoia in the 1960’s, not only to ensure the survival of the Giant Sequoias but also to maintain a healthy forest by burning undergrowth and trees that compete with young Sequoias. Sequoia Cone Sequoia trees are giant but their cones are small, just about the size of a chicken egg. They produce cones at about 12 years of age, but the cones retain their seeds for about 20 years, until the tree reaches maturity. The heat from fires helps the mature cones to dry out and release their seeds onto the soil - the soil that was swept bare and enriched by fire with minerals is important for the seeds to germinate. Sequoia trees can only reproduce from seed and each tree needs only to produce one offspring, over its lifespan of several thousand years, to succeed. Sequoia Bark Sequoias' fibrous bar,k which can grow up to 3 feet thick, not only resists burning but also insulates the tree against the heat of a fire. The tree heals itself if a fire penetrates the bark by growing half an inch of new wood and bark each year. That's one wonder of nature. A major factor contributing to the longevity of Giant Sequoias is a chemical called tannin. The high concentration of tannin in its bark gives the Sequoia resistance against rot, boring insects and fire. - EXPLORING THE GIANT FOREST - The Giant Forest contains three of the top five largest Sequoia trees and half of the world's largest and longest-living trees. Named by naturalist John Muir in 1875, it has the most impressive collection of Giant Sequoias. Exploring throughout the Sequoia trees is fun. The Giant Forest has a network of trails, so you can make your hike short or longer. Some trails are paved, which makes for easy walking, nothing strenuous and family friendly. You just have to be careful with bears. If you find these trails only "a walk in the park", there are other trails that are remote and require more strenuous hiking. THE SENTINEL Right across from the Giant Forest Museum is the Sentinel Tree. With a height of over 257 feet, it is the 13th largest tree in Giant Forest, the 21st largest in the park, and the 43rd largest in the world. This tree is about 2,160 years old. This is just the introduction to other giant trees you will find in the park. SHERMAN TREE The largest tree in the park and the world’s largest living thing, in terms of volume, is called the General Sherman Tree, 275 feet high and 102 feet in circumference. This tree is dated between 2,300 to 2,700 years old. It was formerly called Karl Marx but was renamed in honor of the famous Civil War commander, General Sherman. The paved Sherman Tree Trail is less than a mile round trip. It starts from the parking lot and goes to the base of the General Sherman Tree and meanders through a grove of other Giant Sequoia trees. RIMROCK TRAIL Following the Rimrock Trail, you will find other Giant Sequoia trees named McKinley Tree, The President Tree, Lincoln Tree, The Senate Trees, Chief Sequoia, and many others. CRESCENT MEADOW Following the Crescent Meadow Road, you will find Bear Hill Trailhead, Hanging Rock Trailhead and Moro Rock Trail. On this road you will go through the Tunnel Log. Tunnel Log is a fallen Giant Sequoia tree that measured 275 feet (84 m) tall and 21 feet (6.4 m) in diameter. It fell across a park road in 1937 blocking the road. A year after it fell they cut an 8-foot (2.4 m) tall, 17-foot (5.2 m) wide tunnel through the trunk so cars can drive through it and pass by on the road once again. At the end of the road is High Sierra Trailhead and Sugar Pine Trailhead, as well as Crescent Meadow Picnic Area. From here you can go to Tharp’s Log, an easy hike from the parking area. At the end of the road is the Crescent Meadow - from Generals Highway to the parking lot is about 2.6 miles. John Muir called this meadow the "Gem of the Sierra". THARP’S LOG Tharp’s Log is a cabin built out of a hollowed-out fallen Giant Sequoia tree. Hale Tharp was the first European settler to homestead in the area. He led an early battle against logging in the area. John Muir, who visited him from time to time, stayed at this cabin. BLACK BEAR IN THE PARK While exploring the park, we got lucky to see a mama bear with her three cubs by the meadow. We stopped and watched but we did not go near them - these photos were taken with a long lens. Mama bears are at their most dangerous when separated from their brood so we did not stay long. As soon as they started to walk in our direction, we were out of there, walking fast but not running. You can't outrun a bear and bear can climb trees as well. Better stay at a distance for your own safety. MORO ROCK On the southern edge of the Giant Forest, in the center of the park, is a massive granite dome called Moro Rock, elevation 6,725 feet. To get to the top, you have to climb 400 steps, but you will be rewarded by the view of the High Sierra mountains. The stairway, built in the 1930's by the Civilian Conservation Corps, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The view from the rock encompasses much of the Park, including the Great Western Divide. OTHER SITES TO VISIT IN THE PARK: Tokopah Falls We did not go to Tokopah Falls but if you have time the trail starts just beyond the Marble Fork Bridge in Lodgepole Campground. It is an easy 1.7 mile (one way) walk along the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River to the waterfall. Farther north are more picnic areas and trails, the Wolverton ski area and Lodgepole Visitor Center. Past the visitor center, State Route 198 connects to State Route 180, going to Kings Canyon National Park. Crystal Cave Crystal Cave, located in the Giant Forest, between Ash Mountain entrance and Giant Forest Museum, is one of the least known caves in the park. This cave is accessible by Park Service guided tours and tickets must be bought at the Foothills or Lodgepole Visitor Center. NOTE: On this road trip we visited three national parks in the area. If you are visiting Sequoia National Park, you might as well visit the adjoining Kings Canyon National Park to the north. You can bag two national parks in one trip which is well worth your time. If you have more time, to the south of Sequoia National Park is the Sequoia National Forest. Going to Sequoia National Park there are shuttle buses that you can take from late May to early September. If you are interested in reducing car emissions, or take some time off from driving, click the link for info. https://www.nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/parktransit.htm

  • Exploring Saguaro National Park – Tucson, Arizona

    Arizona has three national parks: Petrified Forest National Park, Grand Canyon National Park and Saguaro National Park. Each is different and offers diverse amazing features. What’s different in Saguaro National Park is the focus on its amazing living features, the Saguaro Cactus, the universal symbol of the American West. Saguaro National Park protects this largest cactus, which you can find almost nowhere outside of Arizona except in northern Mexico. Located in Arizona, one of the hottest states in the United States, the park is open every day, except Christmas. We visited this park in winter on our way to California. With temperatures from the low 50's to the high 70's in winter, it is a perfect time to explore here. Although we missed the blooming time in Spring, we were at least able to explore the park without crowds and avoided the summer heat. THE PARK Saguaro National Park is located on the edge of the Sonoran Desert. It was first declared a National Monument on March 1, 1933 by Herbert Hoover, the 31st President of the United States. Then the monument was elevated to National Park in 1994 by Congress. Saguaro National Park is composed of two distinct districts outside of Tucson: The Rincon Mountain District on the east side and the Tucson Mountain District on the west side, which is the part we visited. The Tucson Mountain District contains desert scrub, and desert grassland with wildlife living in the area including coyote, Gambel’s quail and desert tortoise. The Rincon Mountain District, on the other hand contains desert scrub, desert grassland, oak woodland, pine-oak woodland, pine forest and mixed conifer forest. The Rincon Mountains, which are considerably higher, have more diverse plant and wildlife living in the area: black bear, Mexican spotted owl, Arizona mountain king snake, and white-tailed deer. The area is a desert but it receives enough water to sustain plants and animals living here. They are well adapted to drought and long dry periods which is typical in a desert landscape. THE SAGUARO CACTUS The Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea), the state flower of Arizona, are found only in the Sonoran Desert, in southern Arizona and in western Sonora in Mexico. Some stray ones can be found in southeast California. Saguaros are very slow growing and they can live as long as 150 to 200 years old. With the right growing conditions, they can grow as high as 40 to 60 feet, but may take 20 and 50 years to reach a height of only 3 feet. If they can get plenty of rain, they can absorb and store large amounts of water and will weigh between 3200 to 4800 pounds. You don't want to be under one of these when it's windy! Saguaro has one deep root that extends into the ground for more than two feet, but most of its roots are only four to six inches deep, a large root network that can spread as far as its height. The Saguaro bloom from April through June. Its white silky flower opens after sunset and closes mid-afternoon. It produces large amounts of pollen, nectar and fruits which are food for main pollinators such as hummingbirds, honeybees and bats. These pollinators are one important factor for their continued existence. They grow slowly from seed and only reach a height of 0.25 inches in two years. Birds create holes in saguaros for nesting. Saguaro then creates a callous tissue on the wounds to protect itself. When Saguaro dies these nests remain and are called, "Saguaro Boots". Native Americans use these as water containers or storage vessels. Saguaro's wooden ribs, formed as a skeleton, are used by native Americans as a building material for such things as roofs and furniture. Arizona has strict laws in harvesting, collecting and/or destruction of this giant cactus such as by shooting (also called "cactus plugging"). You might not get 25 years in prison when caught, but you don't want to get revenge from a giant cactus either. It happened to a man trying to fell a Saguaro by shooting it in 1982 and was killed when an arm of the Saguaro fell on him. The 500-pound arm of the Saguaro crushed him and his car. As if that was not enough, the cactus trunk fell on him as well. The largest known living Saguaro listed since 2014 in the United States is a 200-year-old specimen in Maricopa County in Arizona. It measures 45 feet tall with a 10-foot girth. You can find Saguaro at the visitor center, convenient for those who are not able to explore on foot. But if you are able, why just stay there, you will find more than just cactus if you hike. There are short, well-maintained trails in the park where you will find historic sites and structures. Serious hikers take note though, back country permit is required to hike 12 miles to Manning Cabin. HISTORIC SITES In Saguaro National Park, you will find evidence of human activities that span more than 8,000 years. There are prehistoric sites such as petroglyphs and pictographs, as well as later period historic sites. In the Tucson Mountain District, on Signal Hill Trail, you will find petroglyphs on boulders covering the hillside. Most of the rock art in the park was created by the prehistoric Hohokam who lived in the area from 200 to 1400 CE. I just hope visitors will respect this area and not vandalize these important prehistoric sites for others to enjoy.

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